New Ashland eatery features Basque cuisine - News - DailyTidings.com - Ashland, OR

Ashland Daily Tidings (Ashland, OR — Wayback)

2015-02-03

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0 of 3 Premium Clicks used this month SUBSCRIBE Print + Online Subscriber Activation  |  Register x Forgot Password | Need an Account? subscribe | newsletter | deals Home News Latest Stories Campaign encourages SOU students to drive less 10 things to know for Monday Parent files complaint against Ashland schools Living Well can help with chronic conditions Missing teen clue search fruitless Education Parent files complaint against Ashland schools Learning on the job AHS speech and debate team headed north Willow Wind inquiry forms now available District to host parent meeting Environment Grant will help restore 'legacy' oak habitat in Southern Oregon and Northern California Mt. Ashland Ski Area crew dips to five Mt. Ashland Ski Area announces layoffs The top five conservation success of 2014 Protestors want Keystone pipeline plans stopped Business Ride & Drive: The 2015 BMW M4 Silvio Calabi: Jeep’s Patriot earns respect New Ashland eatery features Basque cuisine Learning on the job Ashland restaurant featured on cable TV Politics and elections Amid rising scrutiny, governor says fiancee won't have role in administration Ashland Fiber Network wants to be able to keep trade secrets Volunteer award, State of City address presentations Tuesday City's policy, efforts aim for diversity, but numbers show shortfall Kent Bush: The keys to decoding the State of the Union address State News Amid rising scrutiny, governor says fiancee won't have role in administration Two new wolves confirmed in Southern Oregon, state reviewing status of northeastern packs State records show number of big marijuana farms has increased New wandering wolf arrives in Southern Oregon Nation - World Obituaries Geraldine "Gerry" Smith Death Notices Lily Hearn May Antonucci Death Notices Shareable Sports Latest Stories Raiders, at last Hawks keep streak alive, top Trail Blazers Raiders pulverize Simpson, bag first shutout in six years Raiders seek weekend sweep Seahawks consider the Gronk factor High school Raiders, at last Ashland swimmers sweep three-way Grizzly spirit Ashland girls remain winless in MWL Springfield takes advantage of Ashland letdown Southern Oregon University Raiders, at last Raiders pulverize Simpson, bag first shutout in six years Raiders seek weekend sweep Southern Oregon zeroes in on first men's soccer coach Howard named NAIA coach of the year Opinion Latest Stories Other Views: Allow wilderness burns Letters to the Editor, Feb. 2 Chris Honoré: Public schools: separate, still unequal Herb Rothschild Jr: Thoughts on the drug war Our View: Missing teen dilemma Editorial Other Views: Allow wilderness burns Our View: Missing teen dilemma Our View: Making room for all Our View: Honor well deserved Our View: Whole lotta shakin' ... 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You don’t sit there with your own dish. Well, you can, if you want, but it’s meant to be the center of conversation as it’s passed around.  The second thing about Basque cuisine, says Kevin Broadie, owner of Eleven (that’s their address, 11 North First St., Ashland), is that “they are not big on subtleties,” like their neighbors, the French, to their north.  “The Basque like it to hit you with the tastes,” says Broadie. “Their tastes are much bolder. It’s not delicate.”  Lacing into seared Beef Bruschetta with Piperade (sauce), and sharing a Caldoso Quail, diner Teresa Conway says, “It’s exotic, yet comforting.”  Broadie, who prides himself on using all local produce, meats and wines, agrees, adding, “It’s different, but accessible.”  The Lamb Loin with Kumquat Chutney is supremely tender and has that substantial, farm-raised foundation, but it’s the other stuff that explodes on the palate — the chutney, the beans, the liquids from other dishes — they all start a conversation on each plate as you share dishes and start using your hands more.  This is dining that conjours the feeling of a summer afternoon in the country, on the continent, with friends. This is not the precious world of CIA (Culinary Institute of America) chefs, which Broadie eschews. He has “staged” (worked gratis under mentors) around Europe and rattled pans in Seattle, where he met wife, Andi Broadie, who is in charge of the kitchen.  What is Basque? Andi answers, “It’s vibrant and comforting at the same time. It has influences of Spain (south of Basque country) but isn’t Spanish and certainly isn’t spicy in the hot meaning.”  When the Basque say “spices,” they mean flavors, herbs and such — not the heat, she emphasizes. The spectrum of flavors are to be adored and she has a special love for paprika.  “A lot of sweet and savory spice, but no heat,” says Kevin. “Sweet, no heat.” Then you combine it with the vast range of produce available in Southern Oregon, they gasp, gleefully. “We found 42 varieties of tomato here! It was like Candyland for cooks,” exclaims Kevin, “and with Basque cooking, you can transcend the world,” meaning you can integrate influences of the many ethnicities who have invaded the Pyrenees and left their mark on the palate.  The couple emphasize they aren’t Basque, although Kevin, a 1982 grad of Ashland High School, says family legend has it there might be one or two back in the family tree. He was on the school’s first soccer team and went on to then-Southern Oregon College and Oregon State University, where he studied International Relations and Biology, which, he allows, may have some relation to his present career.  Although the modest-sized Eleven is just 30 feet off Ashland’s main drag, it has a quality of invisibility to townies, with many tourists coming in summer months, saying they read about it or heard from friends in the big cities of the West Coast.  In the Basque tradition, the Broadies opened last July with a long family dining table down the middle of the restaurant, but Americans, being unused to such a communal dining setup, would flock to the deuces and four-tops around the edge, so they got rid of it. It’s still a vision they would like to try, as it very much brings out all things Basque, mainly talking about food. “That’s the thing about the Basques,” he says. “No matter what the topic, it can’t go 10 minutes without food coming up.” The restaurant's website is at www.elevenon1st.com. The phone number is 541-905-1092. Reach Ashland freelance writer John Darling at [email protected].   By John Darling For the Tidings DailyTidings.com By John Darling For the Tidings Posted Jan. 29, 2015 @ 6:14 pm Updated Jan 30, 2015 at 11:25 AM » Comment or view comments   Reader Reaction »  STAY INFORMED   Email NewsLetter   Sign Up Today   Sign up for our newsletter and have the top headlines from your community delivered right to your inbox. calendar Connect with DailyTidings.com Facebook Twitter RSS Back to top Reader Services Reader Services home Subscriptions Subscriber controls Contact us Submissions Photos Events Letters to the editor Corrections Alerts Email alerts RSS feeds Text Alerts Advertise Media Kit Home Products and services Ad rates Advertising contacts Mail Tribune Daily Tidings The Nickel Shop Our Valley Blogs Stay Informed   Email newsletter   Sign Up Today   Sign up for our newsletter and have the top headlines from your community delivered right to your inbox. 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