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Fresh tomatoes star in tasty autumn stew The warm days of early autumn are deceptively alluring; savvy gardeners know it's only a matter of time before the balmy weather cools, chilling the bounty of backyard vegetable patches. Even now, local growers are scrambling to make the most of tomatoes still ripening on the vine. From them, the plea goes out for recipes that use fresh tomatoes, preferably in large quantities. Other readers are wondering about the best way to cook fresh fish, and what to do with this year's bumper crabapple crop. Here are some answers for this month's edition of cook's questions: We would like your thoughts on a long-standing problem that has followed us from California to Oregon. When we buy fish at one of the local supermarkets such as Dover sole, or yesterday, flounder ... we usually fry it. Dredged in flour, then egg wash, then bread crumbs and then fry. And the results are almost always: mush. A gooey mush. A tasty mush, to be sure, but the texture is abysmal. This does not happen with snapper when treated similarly or salmon or trout or halibut. What is the reason for this? Has the flounder or sole been frozen? I don't think we overcook it; we have tried shorter cooking times with the same result. Please advise. We love all fish. -- Jim and Jane V., Medford Well, Jim and Jane, if you love all fish, the best way to avoid mush is to buy Petrale sole, not Dover sole. That's the opinion of Dale Fowler, executive chef at the Rogue Regency Inn in Medford. Fowler, who is certified by the American Culinary Federation, says Petrale sole is a higher quality fish, firmer and more substantial than Dover sole, and it shows in the cooking. Dover sole just won't stand up to the rigors of dredging and frying, he says. "I've had that happen, too," Fowler says. "It tends to be mushy." If you're determined to cook Dover sole, Fowler recommends rolling and baking the fillets to avoid the mushy texture. Spread the fillets with a filling, perhaps, roll into a cylinder and secure with toothpicks. Bake in a moderate oven, 375 to 400 degrees F., just until the fish is opaque. Fowler also cautions cooks to buy the freshest fish possible at a reliable vendor. Most area groceries stock decent fish, although Fowler says he tends to favor Fred Meyer's offerings when he cooks at home. Help! My garden is full of ripe, red tomatoes and I don't know what to do with them all. Do you have any recipes using tomatoes? -- A caller, Medford As I mentioned on the phone, I have files full of recipes that showcase ripe tomatoes. One of my favorites is a dish that also makes quick work of another bountiful late-summer crop: zucchini. Tomato Zucchini Stew is a full-flavored fall dish that combines Italian sausage, fresh vegetables and seasonings in a hearty broth. You'll find the recipe on below. I've got a tree that is so loaded with crabapples. Are those edible? They all just drop and fall and I never do anything with them. Do people eat those? Do they make recipes with them? I've never seen a crop like this. -- Bill G., Ashland Consider your crabapple crop a rare bounty, Bill. Although the small, rosy apples are too tart to eat out of hand, they make excellent jams and jellies. A brief scan of the Internet reveals several easy recipes for crabapple jelly, as well as uses for the condiment once it's done. The spiced jelly is often used as a glaze for meats such as pork or roast turkey. Spiced crabapples are also a tasty addition to fall menus. Tomato Zucchini Stew 1 1/4 pounds bulk Italian sausage 1 1/2 cups sliced celery 8 medium fresh tomatoes (about 3 pounds), peeled and cut into wedges 1 1/2 cups tomato juice 4 small zucchini, sliced 1/2 to 2 teaspoons salt 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon garlic salt 1/2 teaspoon pepper 3 cups whole kernel corn, fresh or canned 2 medium green peppers, sliced 1/4 cup cornstarch 1/4 cup water Shredded mozzarella cheese In a 4-quart Dutch oven, brown sausage. Add celery and cook for 15 minutes; drain. Add tomatoes, tomato juice, zucchini and spices; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Add corn and green peppers; cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Combine cornstarch and water until smooth; stir into stew. Bring to a boil; cook and stir until thickened. Sprinkle with cheese. Yields 6 to 8 servings. Recipe from "The Complete Guide to Country Cooking," by Taste of Home Books. JoNel Aleccia writes about food and family issues. Reach her at 776-4465 or by e-mail at [email protected] Mail Tribune Copyright � The Mail Tribune 1999, Medford, Oregon USA