New Ashland eatery features Basque cuisine - News - DailyTidings.com - Ashland, OR

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2015-03-29

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0 of 3 Premium Clicks used this month SUBSCRIBE Print + Online Subscriber Activation  |  Register x Forgot Password | Need an Account? subscribe | newsletter | deals Home News Latest Stories New Southern Oregon University board votes to bump tuition nearly 5 percent in the fall Police Reports Schneider Art Museum installation re-imagines Rivera UPDATED: Two lanes open after I-5 truck crash near Siskiyou Summit 10 things to know for Friday Education New Southern Oregon University board votes to bump tuition nearly 5 percent in the fall Why OLLI matters: A personal perspective Southern Oregon University names director of marketing Dianne Williamson: College admissions mania ill-advised Rotary Club of Ashland names Riley O'Sullivan as Student of the Month Environment Mt. Ashland Ski Area to host party March 28 Mt. Ashland hopes coming storm will reopen ski area Wild Side: Selfish and other reasons for saving endangered species Mt. Ashland Ski Area: Low snow closes 'bunny hill' chairlift for beginning skiers With pre-season conditions worst in 25 years, catastrophic wildfires expected in region this summer Business Ride & Drive: 2015 Land Rover Range Rover Evoque Snow hopes dashed, Mt. Ashland Ski Area hosts season-ending party Saturday Iconic Ashland bookstore to celebrate 35th anniversary on April 19 Test Drive: 2015 Honda Accord Cars We Remember: The original Candymatic Ramchargers Politics and elections Jackson County Commissioners plan no tax on marijuana for first year Grassroots group campaigns for Plaza paver do-over Arthur I. Cyr: Iran – a crisis without end Short-term rental restrictions kept in some areas, loosened in others Arthur I. Cyr: South Korea represents long-term triumph – for them and for US State News Oregon's governor appoints new secretary of state Nation - World Obituaries Death Notices Alicia Applegate Hardy Death Notices Rosalind Dee Death Notices Shareable Sports Latest Stories Grizz baseball team caps Arizona trip with another win Ashland Rowing Club hires highly touted coach and national-award winning team director to lead expansion Antionette Kerr: Tourney fever gets superstitious Blazers fight back, edge Jazz Grizzlies rally past Colorado school for Greenway Festival victory High school Grizz baseball team caps Arizona trip with another win Grizzlies rally past Colorado school for Greenway Festival victory Ashland softball team splits pair in second day of Bend tournament Grizzlies rally past GP, to 2-0 start Ashland boys capture another Sato Cup snowboard title at Mt. Bachelor Southern Oregon University Grizz baseball team caps Arizona trip with another win Grizzlies rally past Colorado school for Greenway Festival victory Ashland softball team splits pair in second day of Bend tournament Ducks enjoy the challenge Oregon bows out Voices Latest Stories Guest Opinion: Ashland council vote on travelers accommodations was less than transparent Herb Rothschild Jr: Failing at charity Philip Maddocks: GOP plan offers hope for poor once they become rich Matthew T. Mangino: A clearer picture of police shootings begins to emerge Letters to the Editor, March 27 Editorial Our View: Build it; they will play Our View: How it should work Our View: Ashland High principal is the head of her class Our View: Tuition trauma Our View: SOU's economic clout Letters Letters to the Editor, March 27 Letters to the Editor, March 25 Letters to the Editor, March 23 Letters to the Editor, March 20 Letters to the Editor, March 19 Guest opinions Guest Opinion: Ashland council vote on travelers accommodations was less than transparent Guest Opinion: Hannah Thomas-Garner's father thanks the Ashland community Guest Opinion: Ashland is asking for trouble with new room rental rules Guest Opinion: More reasons to oppose Jordan Cove Guest Opinion: It's Groundwater Awareness Week; test your well Columns Guest Opinion: Ashland council vote on travelers accommodations was less than transparent Herb Rothschild Jr: Failing at charity Philip Maddocks: GOP plan offers hope for poor once they become rich Matthew T. Mangino: A clearer picture of police shootings begins to emerge Jeffrey Gillespie: Pax Americana? At what price? Chris Honore Council Corner Editor's Notes Jeffrey Gillespie Herb Rothschild Revels Latest Stories Top 5 things to do this week Laurie Lewis and Kathy Kallick pay tribute to Arkansas bluegrass duo Vern Williams and Ray Park The Oregon Shakespeare Festival presents Eugene O'Neill's autobiographical 'Long Day's Journey into Night' Community blog: Words, wine and Craig Wright 4 Things To Do This Week Theater Ticket availability Ticket Availability Ashland Contemporary Theatre seeks new artistic director Ticket Availability The Oregon Shakespeare Festival presents Eugene O'Neill's autobiographical 'Long Day's Journey into Night' Music Futureshock: Kendrick Lamar release points to road ahead Laurie Lewis and Kathy Kallick pay tribute to Arkansas bluegrass duo Vern Williams and Ray Park Album reviews: Recent and recommended for March The Farr Side: New format for ‘American Idol’ as show continues a strong run Improv rock and folk band hosts a dance party at the Ashland Community Center Visual Art Ashland's First Friday Art Walk showcases new exhiits by regional artists Movies Movie review: In ‘Danny Collins,’ Pacino helps us imagine a Lennon story Noah Baumbach talks Ben Stiller, adult comedies and more In 'Timbuktu,' lust for power disturbs peace Movie review: ‘The Gunman’ misses the target Movie listings: March 20-26 Food and Drink Cruelest Month: Poetry Blog Lifestyle Latest Stories Ride & Drive: 2015 Land Rover Range Rover Evoque App Finder: Best barbecue apps Health Watch: It’s OK to have a cheat day Inner Peace: The good, the bad and the spiritual Antionette Kerr: Tourney fever gets superstitious Aging Happens Inner Peace Column Inner Peace Blog Rogues: Tales from the Valley Classifieds Jobs Autos Real Estate FEATURED   » Obituaries Photos Videos Blogs Business Business Services NEWS NOW   Ashland Calendar: Saturday, March 28       ...       Guest Opinion: Ashland council vote on travelers accommodations was less than transparent       ...       Herb Rothschild Jr: Failing at charity       ...       Ashland Calendar: Saturday, March 28       ...       Guest Opinion: Ashland council vote on travelers accommodations was less than transparent       ...       Herb Rothschild Jr: Failing at charity       ...           RESTAURANT REVIEW New Ashland eatery features Basque cuisine Comment By John Darling For the Tidings DailyTidings.com By John Darling For the Tidings Posted Jan. 29, 2015 at 6:14 PM Updated Feb 26, 2015 at 10:20 AM By John Darling For the Tidings Posted Jan. 29, 2015 at 6:14 PM Updated Feb 26, 2015 at 10:20 AM »  Social News The distinctive thing about Basque food is that it’s meant to be shared. You don’t sit there with your own dish. Well, you can, if you want, but it’s meant to be the center of conversation as it’s passed around.  The second thing about Basque cuisine, says Kevin Broadie, owner of Eleven (that’s their address, 11 North First St., Ashland), is that “they are not big on subtleties,” like their neighbors, the French, to their north.  “The Basque like it to hit you with the tastes,” says Broadie. “Their tastes are much bolder. It’s not delicate.”  Lacing into seared Beef Bruschetta with Piperade (sauce), and sharing a Caldoso Quail, diner Teresa Conway says, “It’s exotic, yet comforting.”  Broadie, who prides himself on using all local produce, meats and wines, agrees, adding, “It’s different, but accessible.”  The Lamb Loin with Kumquat Chutney is supremely tender and has that substantial, farm-raised foundation, but it’s the other stuff that explodes on the palate — the chutney, the beans, the liquids from other dishes — they all start a conversation on each plate as you share dishes and start using your hands more.  This is dining that conjours the feeling of a summer afternoon in the country, on the continent, with friends. This is not the precious world of CIA (Culinary Institute of America) chefs, which Broadie eschews. He has “staged” (worked gratis under mentors) around Europe and rattled pans in Seattle, where he met wife, Andi Broadie, who is in charge of the kitchen.  What is Basque? Andi answers, “It’s vibrant and comforting at the same time. It has influences of Spain (south of Basque country) but isn’t Spanish and certainly isn’t spicy in the hot meaning.”  When the Basque say “spices,” they mean flavors, herbs and such — not the heat, she emphasizes. The spectrum of flavors are to be adored and she has a special love for paprika.  “A lot of sweet and savory spice, but no heat,” says Kevin. “Sweet, no heat.” Then you combine it with the vast range of produce available in Southern Oregon, they gasp, gleefully. “We found 42 varieties of tomato here! It was like Candyland for cooks,” exclaims Kevin, “and with Basque cooking, you can transcend the world,” meaning you can integrate influences of the many ethnicities who have invaded the Pyrenees and left their mark on the palate.  The couple emphasize they aren’t Basque, although Kevin, a 1982 grad of Ashland High School, says family legend has it there might be one or two back in the family tree. He was on the school’s first soccer team and went on to then-Southern Oregon College and Oregon State University, where he studied International Relations and Biology, which, he allows, may have some relation to his present career.  Although the modest-sized Eleven is just 30 feet off Ashland’s main drag, it has a quality of invisibility to townies, with many tourists coming in summer months, saying they read about it or heard from friends in the big cities of the West Coast.  In the Basque tradition, the Broadies opened last July with a long family dining table down the middle of the restaurant, but Americans, being unused to such a communal dining setup, would flock to the deuces and four-tops around the edge, so they got rid of it. It’s still a vision they would like to try, as it very much brings out all things Basque, mainly talking about food. “That’s the thing about the Basques,” he says. “No matter what the topic, it can’t go 10 minutes without food coming up.” The restaurant's website is at www.elevenon1st.com. The phone number is 541-905-1092. Reach Ashland freelance writer John Darling at [email protected].   By John Darling For the Tidings DailyTidings.com By John Darling For the Tidings Posted Jan. 29, 2015 at 6:14 PM Updated Feb 26, 2015 at 10:20 AM » Comment or view comments   Reader Reaction »  STAY INFORMED   Email NewsLetter   Sign Up Today   Sign up for our newsletter and have the top headlines from your community delivered right to your inbox. calendar Connect with DailyTidings.com Facebook Twitter RSS Back to top Reader Services Reader Services home Subscriptions Subscriber controls Contact us Submissions Photos Events Letters to the editor Corrections Alerts Email alerts RSS feeds Text Alerts Advertise Media Kit Home Products and services Ad rates Advertising contacts Mail Tribune Daily Tidings The Nickel Shop Our Valley Blogs Stay Informed   Email newsletter   Sign Up Today   Sign up for our newsletter and have the top headlines from your community delivered right to your inbox. 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