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- Subscribe - Contact Us - Rate Card - Place an Ad Archives Revels Classifieds Real Estate Menu Guide Wedding Weather Subscribe Contact Us April 19, 2005 Off The Vine ‘Sideways’ deals blow to merlot Lorn Razzano It somewhat amazes me to find that the movie “Sideways” has had a significant impact on the wine scene in California. It appears that in direct response to the motion picture, merlot sales are off by at least five percent and falling. Pinot noir sales are up a staggering fifteen to twenty percent. The Santa Barbara wineries as a whole are experiencing a record number of visitors and sales. It also appears that the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley wineries have also gained from the movie. Many salesroom winery folks are saying that they are seeing “first time” wine buyers attending tastings and winery tours and asking significant questions about specific wines, especially pinot noir. For an old-time wine geek as myself, I find these numbers interesting on many levels. It has been reported that the sales of merlot had been “slipping” over the past few years before the release of “Sideways.” It is true that the sales of marginally made merlot have been off but the better-made classics are as strong as ever. The origin of merlot comes from the great Bordeaux region of France. The grape can yield, and does from year to year, world class, beautifully crafted wines from old vines and hundreds of years of skillful winemaking. Lovely estates continue to produce merlot in stunning levels of excellence and will, obviously, for many years to come. The Walla Walla region of Washington state is exploding with complex and broodingly perfumed merlot rivaling their sisters in the best micro regions of California. At its best merlot is characterized by its softness, round, non angular flavors and layers of spice, black fruit length and silk on the palate. Well made merlot is a delight to drink and runs the gamet of fruit, berry and plum with hints of all kinds of heady flavors and a heady bouquet. The problem with merlot is the wash of marginally produced merlot from average to poor growing regions as well as mediocre winemaking practices. This kind of merlot deserves the adjective “plunk” and can be seen by the truckload on many supermarket shelves. The history of the American merlot scene is one of interest to me because I was in the center of the action when the grape exploded on the scene. Merlot, for the smart American wine consumer, was considered a “blending grape” as is sometimes used in the making of fine Bordeaux to soften the tannins of cabernet sauvignon. In 1970, while I was retailing wine in California, Louis Martini winery in Napa Valley decided to bottle merlot on its own merit. The wine was well made, soft and not harsh and over made with tons of oak like the many cabernets being sold at the time. It was the first wine to be sold with “merlot” written on the label and took off like wildfire. Not to be outdone, the winery then released a “Special Select” merlot shortly thereafter which became an icon in the wine business. The wines were highly allocated and hard to purchase, brilliant marketing which served the winery very well indeed. Other wineries, not to be outdone, began to scramble and follow Martini’s lead. Very soon, within five years, the market began to flood with just about every merlot that could be snatched off of a vine. Merlot, the “blending grape” was now the hot item on the American wine scene with the words “Reserve,” “Special Select” and all kinds of fancy designations to distinguish one merlot from another. It was a confusing time for retailers and consumers with the merlot finally reaching its zenith in the middle 1990s. Here is where to look for good merlots: Scan the shelves for Bordeaux from St. Emillion and Pomerol. Even with the dollar in the dumps, there are some nice values out there. The wines from Washington state are gangbusters, well made for the most part and under $20. Look for the Walla growing area. Napa Valley merlots can be lovely but pricey, be careful. Look for the wines under 13.5 percent alcohol. The high alcohol merlots can be hot and astringent. The last area but a region filled with bargains is the Veneto region of Italy. Some of these merlots are generous flavored wines under $15 a bottle and can be real jewels. Have fun, see you next time. Lorn Razzano is a commercial wine and spirits judge and is a co-founder of KSOR wine tasting. He was on winery staffs of various Italian and French wineries in the 1970s and has owned Ashland Wine Cellar since 1980. 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