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July 3, 2004 - Subscribe - Contact Us - Rate Card - Place an Ad Valley&State Backpage O&E Sports Archives Classifieds Faith&Beliefs Obituaries Revels June 22, 2004 The Kitchen Coach Cherries - sweet and sour Rebecca Wood All cherry varieties are a folk remedy for aches and pain. But recent medical research validates that tart cherries are superior to sweet cherries in their medicinal properties. This resonates with our common sense. Sweeter fruits contain more carbohydrates and, therefore, less micronutrients with pharmaceutically healing properties. Tart cherries provide highly effective pain relief and are an excellent source of antioxidant compounds. Their anti-inflammatory compounds, anthocyanins, are at least 10 times more active than aspirin according to a recent study from Michigan State University in East Lansing, Michigan. And of course unlike medications, tart cherries have no side effects. Lead researcher, Muralee Nair, a professor of natural products chemistry, says that twenty tart cherries a day can keep pain related to arthritis and inflammation at bay. Additionally, tart cherries are a potent source of seventeen beneficial antioxidants. Antioxidants are useful in the prevention of cancer and cardiovascular disease and they help slow the aging process. Two of these antioxidants, kaempferol and quercetin are found in supplements used to improve memory, concentration and vision. Tart or sour cherries are also known as pie cherries for good reason - they are at their best when cooked and they're incomparable in a pie. Tart cherries become creamy and tender with a bright, tangy flavor and a vividly clear pink juice, whereas cooked sweet cherries become mushy and turn a muddy purple color. The ancestor of all cherries - both sweet and sour - is the chokecherry. It's aptly named, as one nibble is so astringent that you almost choke. This wild fruit is about the size of a pea and it is mostly seed with a scanty layer of brownish-red flesh. Chokecherries grow in grape-like clusters in shrubby stands. They're widespread throughout the United States, growing on hills, in valleys and along creek banks. Come early September, the fruits will be ready for harvest. I have fond memories of collecting chokecherries with my grandmother for making into jam. Cultivated sour cherries are sweeter, larger and lusher than chokecherries but their tartness will still make you pucker. They are a bright "cherry" red rather than the almost black red of a Bing cherry. Tart cherry trees are inordinately prolific bearers - one small tree produces more bushels of fruit than any one family could use. So very often sour cherries fall to the ground for lack of anyone to harvest and pie them. What a waste. Is there an un-harvested or under-harvested sour cherry tree in your neighborhood? There's no harm in asking to pick a few bags full. Sour cherries are so juicy and perishable that they bruise at a touch and are thus difficult to market. With increased interest in unusual fruits, fresh sour cherries are once again becoming available, but only in farmer's markets. Look for them in July following the sweet cherry harvest. Pit and use immediately or freeze for later use. Organic tart cherries are available dried, juiced and in cherry butter. Commercial sour cherries are canned or frozen and often packed in sugar syrup. For all the pleasure it brings, homemade cherry pie isn't difficult to make. And when made with a natural sweetener, organic butter and a wholesome piecrust it's something that money can't buy. If you are using frozen cherries, let them defrost until the fruit separates easily. A white flour crust is light in texture, but it lacks flavor. On the other hand, a crust of whole-wheat pastry flour is substantial and flavorful. For the best of both, I evenly blend both flours for a tasty but still delicate crust. Plan to make the crust in advance. Pie Crust 1 cup organic white flour 1 cup whole-wheat pastry flour 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 3/4 cup unsalted organic butter, well chilled Approximately 5 tablespoons ice water Filling 4 cups sour cherries, rinsed and pitted 2 tablespoons arrowroot flour or organic cornstarch 1 1/2 cups organic, unrefined sugar 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, chopped Measure flours and sea salt into a mixing bowl and toss with fingers to blend thoroughly. Cut butter into 1/4" cubes and add to flour mixture. Toss to evenly distribute. With fingertips, quickly and deftly rub the butter into the flour to make a dry, crumbly mixture. Sprinkle 6 tablespoons of ice water over the mixture. Using a fork, rapidly stir the dough until it gathers into clumps. If needed, add additional ice water to hold dough together. Gently divide dough and form into two disks. Wrap in plastic film and refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours but preferably for 24 hours. Drain cherries and reserve 1/2 cup of their juice. Combine arrowroot flour with reserved juice and mix until smooth. Stir in sugar. Gently blend sugar with fruit and allow to stand for 15 minutes. Taste and, if necessary, increase sugar. Preheat oven to 450�F. Roll out each piece of chilled dough on a lightly floured surface to a circle large enough to cover a 9" pie plate. Use one circle to line a 9" pie pan. Pour fruit into pie shell and dot with butter. Cover with top crust. Prick top. Bake for 10 minutes in pre-heated 450�F. oven, and then reduce heat to 350� and bake about 40 minutes longer or until golden. Local resident Rebecca Wood is a Personal Chef, Kitchen Coach and author. Her book, The Splendid Grain, won both the James Beard and the Julia Child Cookbook Awards. She may be reached, or her articles and recipes may be accessed, at www.rwood.com. 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