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Called easy, Shasta can be deadly Last weekend�s climbing death was part of a growing number, as the mountain becomes more popular By Bill Kettler No one feels the death of a mountain climber quite like another climber. "It�s the hardest part of climbing," says Ashland climber John Rodriguez. "When someone dies, a piece of you takes a hit." Rodriguez talked with another Ashland climber, David Wieken, just before Wieken drove to Mount Shasta for a climb that took his life. "The last thing I told him was to have a great time and to be safe. And of course he was safe." For Shasta weather info The Shasta-Trinity National Forest provides information for climbers about weather on the mountain and conditions along the routes to the summit. Condition reports are updated daily. Climbers can call (530) 926-9613 for information, or visit the forest�s Web site at www.r5.fs.fed.us/shastatrinity Climbers know being safe isn�t always enough. Wieken lost his footing on an icy ridge in the predawn darkness and couldn�t stop his fall. He died Sunday of head injuries. Climbers in Southern Oregon and Northern California have had too many opportunities this year to contemplate the risks they face. Two climbers died on Mount Shasta in April, and another climber died at Castle Crags. A Colorado climber suffered a broken leg on the mountain on Sunday when he tried to stop his climbing partner�s fall. Northern California�s most prominent volcano has a reputation for being an easy climb, and thousands of people reach the summit every year. As many as half of those who start turn back, halted by bad weather, exhaustion or altitude sickness. Veteran climbers say there are always hazards on the mountain. Rescue personnel have been called to the mountain 33 times so far this year to help climbers and other recreationists who have lost their way or suffered injuries. "There really is no easy way up Shasta and these big Cascade peaks," said Michael Zanger, director of Shasta Mountain Guides. "You can get in trouble using the E word." Accidents and fatalities on Mount Shasta are nothing new, but the number of incidents have increased during the past decade as more people came to the mountain. "We�re averaging about two fatalities a year now," said climbing ranger Eric White. "Fifteen years ago, it was probably one (fatality) every five or 10 years." Interest in mountain climbing soared during the late 1990s, driven by spectacular films and best-selling books. Many of the new climbers came to Mount Shasta, drawn in part by its easy freeway accessibility. Hundreds of climbers now crowd the most popular summit routes on summer weekends, when deep packed snow from the previous winter provides solid traction for climbers wearing crampons (steel teeth) on their boots. Climbing conditions deteriorate by early fall. Months of sunshine melt the past winter�s snow, loosening rocks that were locked in place by ice and snow. Climbers must scramble across more rocky terrain, increasing their opportunities to twist an ankle or break a leg, while they stay alert for falling rocks. "We can�t seem to break the misconception that the route�s easier when there�s less snow," said Dan Towner, a climbing ranger for the U.S. Forest Service. "These Cascade volcanoes are big rock piles, and the snow is the glue that holds them together. When the snow melts, they fall apart." Zanger, the professional guide, said problems arise partly because many new climbers come from a hiking background. "A lot of people think these Cascade volcanoes are a hike instead of a climb," he said. "People that are used to hiking believe when the trail is exposed the hiking is better." The melted snow also exposes old glacier ice. The surface of the ice melts in the sunshine and freezes again at night, making a hard, unyielding surface variously known as boiler plate, glare ice or water ice. "That ice is like coffee table glass in some places," said Towner. "Your crampons better be sharp and your skills better be sharp." "It�s real easy to get off balance up there," said Jim Davis, a former Medford resident who has climbed the route where Wieken fell. Wieken, who had climbed on Mount Rainier at least twice, fell on hard ice, where the smoothness of the surface made a fall extra dangerous. "You have to stop yourself immediately (on glare ice)," Zanger said, "or you accelerate like a rocket." Wieken couldn�t stop himself, and fell at least 1,000 feet. Towner said most climbers would do well to stay off Mount Shasta until spring brings better climbing conditions. "We�ve had a small number of incidents compared to the 10,000 or so people who attempt the summit," he said. "But it�s hard for the families that have been involved in an accident." Dangers notwithstanding, autumn climbing has a special allure for veteran climbers. Months of summer sunshine have exposed ancient glacier ice and terrain features that are buried most of the year. Little lakes form at the base of glaciers, and climbers see icy pinnacles deep within crevasses in the glacier. "It�s other-worldly," Zanger said. "Some of us just love to be there on the ice." Zanger said climbers acknowledge the inherent danger in their sport. "The mountains are neutral and play fair completely," he said. "What we learn, and are reminded of, is that things can change in an instant. "Many people made it to the summit and back safely on the same route (Wieken and his partner) were on." Mail Tribune Home | Ottaway Newspapers, Inc. | Dow Jones & Co., Inc. | Privacy | Contact Us Copyright � 2000 Mail Tribune, Inc.