Mail Tribune - Inti - September 1, 2006

Mail Tribune (Medford, OR — Wayback)

2006-09-01

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http://www.omniture.com --> Sections Home Page Local News AP News Archives Business Classifieds Event Calendar Forums Life Opinion Obituaries Photo Gallery Readers Photo Gallery Sports Tempo Weather Special Coverage 2006 Britt Festivals --> Shop Our Valley AutoFinder HomeFinder JobFinder Search Our Valley Special Sections Homelife Magazine Joy Magazine Readers Choice 2006 Oregon Golf Info Oregon Wine Info Our Valley Other Publications Local Links Ashland News eSouthernOregon Newspapers In Education Personals Moving Here Movie Listings TV Listings Volunteer Customer Service Advertise With Us Media Kit Place Classified Ad Contact Us FAQ's Home Delivery Site Map  --> Email Story to a Friend September 1, 2006 Inti Given the Rogue Valley's abundant Mexican restaurants, one has to wonder how there's room for yet another. But Inti, one of Talent's newest eateries, flouts the assumption that it's just another taqueria. It does so with a minimal menu, understated decor and none of the tired gimmicks on which other Mexican restaurants seem to rely. A recent weekday offered the perfect opportunity to try lunch with coworkers. The Talent Avenue restaurant — open just a few weeks — already was popular enough to make parking somewhat of an ordeal. We were grateful to find one umbrella-covered table open on Inti's pleasant patio. The yellow-painted building most recently was occupied by Señor Sams. At Inti, even the ubiquitous basket of chips has a new twist. Along with the familiar corn-tortilla triangles and pico de gallo were a few wheel-shaped, puffed corn chips. Salsa isn't required to make these morsels irresistible. Advertisement The short menu comprises mostly tacos, appropriate given Inti's subtitle of "tacos y mas." But diners — so used to chicken, beef and pork — won't find themselves without enough options to consider. My eyes zeroed in on several taco variations: shrimp, lamb, veggie and tofu. Each came in one of Inti's handmade, white corn tortillas with garnishes. Tacos are $3 apiece or three for $8. Two types of chicken and pork in addition to beef and fish round out the selections. Since I'd never yet run across a lamb taco, I had to try the braised meat in its smoky chipotle sauce. The marinated and grilled vegetables with a topping of cheese also sounded promising. My coworkers selected the same. We were cheered to hear the side dish of beans — usually so disappointing at Mexican restaurants — included both the pinto and black varieties. The fact that they arrived whole, simmered with onion and cilantro instead of mashed into a bland paste, was even more impressive. Pillowy and slightly thicker than other corn tortillas, Inti's more than lived up to expectations. The lamb was tender with just enough lingering spiciness. The vegetables were tastier than anticipated and made a nice foil for the red meat. Because its fare is light without the puddles of cheese so common among most Americanized versions of Mexican cuisine, Inti stands to sell a fair amount of desserts, particularly when patrons realize how good they are. The price of $3 apiece seems a paltry sum to pay. My flan was rich and custardy. But Tio Benito's homemade apple pie stole the show. Its layers of flaky crust cradled succulent apples, a marriage rarely seen in ethnic eateries. The prospect of Mexican rice pudding, jicama salad with garlic chili dressing and shrimp cocktail warranted a return visit. Appetizers range from $4 for chips and guacamole, lima bean spread or grilled corn skewers with cheese dip to $8 for the marinated fish melange known as ceviche. Three salads are offered. Wines by the glass are very reasonably priced, from $3 to $5.50. While Inti's flower-pot-dotted patio is decidedly more inspiring than the sparse dining room, a few indoor tables are in view of the exhibition-style kitchen, where diners can watch as meat is grilled and portions dished up. -- Sarah Lemon Would you like to respond to this story? If so Click Here to visit our forums. Advertisement Copyright © 1997-2006 Mail Tribune, Inc. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy | Terms & Conditions | Website Feedback online casinos news Home Security Systems Windermere Van Vleet Men's Clothing Southern Oregon Loans --> GMAT Prep Fundraisers Send Flowers Texas Electric Choice Entertainment Guide --> Casinos Canada Trunks, Footlocker Online Casino Reviews Online poker at AbsolutePoker.com