Mail Tribune - River's Edge Restaurant - September 8, 2006

Mail Tribune (Medford, OR — Wayback)

2006-09-08

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http://www.omniture.com --> Sections Home Page Local News AP News Archives Business Classifieds Event Calendar Forums Life Opinion Obituaries Photo Gallery Readers Photo Gallery Sports Tempo Weather Special Coverage 2006 Britt Festivals --> Shop Our Valley AutoFinder HomeFinder JobFinder Search Our Valley Special Sections Homelife Magazine Joy Magazine Readers Choice 2006 Oregon Golf Info Oregon Wine Info Our Valley Other Publications Local Links Ashland News eSouthernOregon Newspapers In Education Personals Moving Here Movie Listings TV Listings Volunteer Customer Service Advertise With Us Media Kit Place Classified Ad Contact Us FAQ's Home Delivery Site Map  --> Email Story to a Friend September 8, 2006 River's Edge Restaurant The River's Edge is located on the Rogue in Grants Pass. It occupies the former Hamilton River House built by Southern Oregon fine-dining visionary Doug Hamilton. Two years ago Hamilton sold the place to Kelly Hatch, but Hamilton's inspired design has been preserved. A long dining room is tiered to display river vistas through a window wall. This room overlooks a series of stepped outdoor terraces, each providing commanding views of a rocky river riffle. A comfy bar is tucked away at the east end of the building. Where Hamilton offered his own version of tasty and very reliable Northwest comfort food, Hatch has launched a Pacific Rim approach with a sprinkling of Latin offerings and a few nods to the steak and prime-rib crowd. Most of his dishes spark interest and get the juices flowing. Among the appetizers are Wasabi Tenderloin, steak with hoisin sauce and a wasabi aioli, and Crispy Ahi Katsu, tuna wrapped in nori and spinach and flash-fried rare with a ginger-peanut sauce. My wife and I enjoyed Shanghai Lettuce Wraps, stir-fried chicken, chestnuts and mushrooms wrapped in nifty lettuce-leaf tacos. This was a big portion but cost $8. Several starters are similarly priced and some a bit more. The salad selections are just as inventive. For example, can you get excited about Spicy Island Chicken Salad? What if I told you it was jerk-spiced and came with mango and pineapple, pico de gallo, tortilla strips and honey-lime dressing? A sprint through the entrees proves just as exciting. Island Spiced Shrimp with Papaya Sauce, Black Plum Diver Scallops, and Mazatlan Mahi-mahi appear in the seafood category and range in price from $18 to $24. You could choose a filet or New York Strip and even a Full Circle Bison Ranch Top Sirloin with mushrooms, blue cheese sauce and onion strings for $21. Or you might order a Habañero Flatiron steak with sweet and spicy habañero sauce and tortilla slaw for $22. Vegetarians might go for a Spice Encrusted Eggplant Steak with olive oil, sautéed vegetables and a drizzle of balsamic. Advertisement The wine list has been crafted, which is a welcome departure from those which have been dealt an owner largely by their beverage salesmen. Bottle prices range between $19 and $30 and glasses cost $5 to $6 with a few topping $8. My wife and I savored a lovely Australian viognier for less than $20. On both of my visits I enjoyed top-notch Maker's Mark Manhattan cocktails and overlooked a long list of drinks made with cherry brandy, blue curacao and passion fruit rum. I have also managed to pass on "martinis" made with everything except gin and dry vermouth — although I'm certain the skilled bartender can make one. There are 10 draft beers, several of which are from Southern Oregon brewers Jim Mills and Ross Litton. I had a beet soup dressed with strands of creamy marscapone, a buttery cream cheese from Northern Italy. It was dazzling. I also had perfectly cooked Dry Rub Duck Breast in a zinfandel orange sauce for $19. It was heavenly although, at the price, I would have liked another breast. My wife's wasabi potatoes were delectable, although she prefers old-fashioned mashing to contemporary tendencies to puree. Her Plum Diver Scallops were tantalizing, although just four large shellfish appeared for the $24 tab. They were a bit overcooked but waitress Trina swiftly made certain we were compensated for the problem. We would return to The River's Edge and plan to. If the kitchen sputters occasionally, that can happen on any day in any restaurant. Portion re-sizing also is in order, yet the setting and menu are a delight and the staff efficient, all displaying that Southern Oregon charm we appreciate so much. -- Hubert Smith Would you like to respond to this story? If so Click Here to visit our forums. Advertisement Copyright © 1997-2006 Mail Tribune, Inc. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy | Terms & Conditions | Website Feedback online casinos news Home Security Systems Windermere Van Vleet Men's Clothing Southern Oregon Loans --> GMAT Prep Fundraisers Send Flowers Texas Electric Choice Entertainment Guide --> Casinos Canada Trunks, Footlocker Online Casino Reviews Online poker at AbsolutePoker.com