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http://www.omniture.com --> Sections Home Page Local News AP News Archives Business Classifieds Event Calendar Forums Life Opinion Obituaries Photo Gallery Readers Photo Gallery Sports Tempo Weather Special Coverage 2006 Britt Festivals --> Shop Our Valley AutoFinder HomeFinder JobFinder Search Our Valley Special Sections Homelife Magazine Joy Magazine Readers Choice 2006 Oregon Golf Info Oregon Wine Info Our Valley Other Publications Local Links Ashland News eSouthernOregon Newspapers In Education Personals Moving Here Movie Listings TV Listings Volunteer Customer Service Advertise With Us Media Kit Place Classified Ad Contact Us FAQ's Home Delivery Site Map --> Email Story to a Friend September 15, 2006 Il Giardino Cucina Italiana When Gaetano Restaurante Italiano closed in June, I was dismayed. But when Il Giardino Cucina Italiana opened, I couldn't wait to give it a try. Little did I know I had entered Gaetano Siragusa's new (and somewhat more lightly priced) version of a true Italian restaurant. Color me dumb but delighted. The same painted frescos bathe the walls in warm color. The same warm banter exists between waiters and restaurant regulars. And the same pasta favorites like Spaghetti Alla Puttanesca and Fettuccine Alfredo remain on the menu. All this sameness provides comfort to those who loved the old Gaetano's, which opened in May 2002. While the menu remains boldly Italian, the daily specials seem to especially strive for a deeper culinary and cultural reality. A true taste of Italy, said my dining companion. Advertisement As we perused the new menu, we nibbled on a piquant and varied selection of olives. They were a happy addition to the crusty bread dipped in fragrant olive oil and tangy balsamic vinegar. Hmm. Appetizers beckoned. Salads enticed. Poultry, grilled meats, seafood selections tantalized as old and new items melded on the menu. My dining companion opted for a new dish — Fusilli con Pollo e Fontina ($12.50). As delicate as my dish was, his was a counterpoint of powerhouse flavors. Rich house-smoked chicken, creamy fontina cheese and musky sage, the intense flavors were every bit as bold as a bassoon. But the dish was perfectly balanced, and very, very delicious. Pitch perfect, in fact. Curious to see if even the old had become new, I selected an old favorite — Linguine al Gamberi ($16.50). The sweet prawns came nestled in linguine pasta with a subtle white wine, lemon butter and garlic sauce. Its flavors were light and delicate, like a simple tune played on a piccolo. But, in this case, maybe just a bit too light — as both my partner and I failed to detect even a hint of the promised garlic which would have added greatly to the flavor. Both entrees came with choice of soup or salad. He chose the minestrone toscano soup: fresh vegetables simmered with cannellini beans in a rich base. I had the house salad of mixed greens with crispy croutons and house vinaigrette — adding smoky blue cheese for $1. Dessert offered another symphony of flavors. Our gracious server offered a tantalizing display of choices. Cannoli, tiramisu, and creme brulée — the obvious choices. But my dining companion went with another bass clef selection, the Torta di Pere e Cioccolata ($7). I viewed the dessert with some suspicion. The pairing of poached pears, chocolate tarte and raspberry sauce seemed tricky. However, instead of encountering taste-bud dissonance, one bite proved the golden pears combined well with their deep chocolate base and drizzle of berry sauce. I continued with the lighter grace notes, choosing the Panna Cotta ($6.50.) This popular Italian sweet of cool vanilla dessert nearly defies description. Light and silky in texture, panna cotta is to pudding what sorbet is to ice cream. A lovely grace note of sweetness hovering in a splash of bright raspberry sauce. Maybe Gaetano's success in Grants Pass led to the recent opening of another Il Giardino Cucina venue on Granite Street in Ashland. Whatever the reason, Siragusa continues to toss his chef's hat over the moon and offer Rogue Valley diners a real taste of Italy. This is cause for celebration. Grazie tanto. -- Sanne Specht Would you like to respond to this story? If so Click Here to visit our forums. Advertisement Copyright © 1997-2006 Mail Tribune, Inc. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy | Terms & Conditions | Website Feedback online casinos news Home Security Systems Windermere Van Vleet Men's Clothing Southern Oregon Loans --> GMAT Prep Fundraisers Send Flowers Texas Electric Choice Entertainment Guide --> Casinos Canada Trunks, Footlocker Online Casino Reviews Online poker at AbsolutePoker.com