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DINING Unexpected flavor pairings at Public House Comment MailTribune.com Writer Posted Jul. 3, 2015 at 12:01 AM Posted Jul. 3, 2015 at 12:01 AM » Social News New owners of The Playwright Public House have characterized its changes as a “facelift.” Yet diners are more likely to encounter an about-face from the previous British-inspired pub fare to newly minted “modern cuisine.” The duo behind Ashland’s Tot restaurant, Andrew Will and Sean Simpson, took over The Playwright — abbreviating the name to Public House — in March and engaged Amuse chef Josh Dorcak to create a gastropub menu of small plates meant for sharing. With bold, unexpected flavor pairings and playful presentations, that concept comes off better than Public House’s main dishes. Under the heading “bites,” all 10 of Public House’s small plates beckoned during a recent dinner with my husband and friends. Dishes ranged from a straightforward appetizer of oysters on the half shell ($3.50 apiece) to the wholly unexpected marriage of flatbread and sea beans ($4), which I simply couldn’t pass up. The other couple gamely let me select some other starters: chicken-liver mousse with strawberries and pistachios ($12), lamb sweetbreads with still more pistachios ($10) and the chef’s riff on sushi comprising eel, avocado, puffed rice and roe ($10). We each ordered from the thoughtfully constructed cocktail list, which boasted drinks with several house-infused and -aged spirits, priced from $9 for sangria to $14 for aquavit for two. The latter would have been a delicious counterpoint to the flatbread’s heady umami note, impressively accomplished with entirely plant-based ingredients, a little extra-virgin olive oil and chili flakes, to accent the sea vegetable. Both the mousse and sweetbreads delivered all the savor and silken textures that I anticipated and enthusiastically devoured. More subtle, clean flavors from the “sushi,” by comparison, almost functioned as a palate cleanser. The mousse’s decadent accompaniment of fried chicken skin left me craving more of that crunch and swayed me toward the entrée of black cod ($25). In addition to the chicken-skin “chicharron,” salsify puree and hazelnuts augmented the fish dish. A close competitor for my affection, the “bird seed” fried chicken with hot sauce ($16) earned my husband’s choice of entrée. Our friends ordered hanger steak with fried artichokes ($22) and the primarily vegetarian array of maitake mushrooms, cauliflower, grilled avocado and roe with a “perfect” egg ($15). My plate’s tepid temperature may have been the consequence of arranging so many components, which seemed muddled flavorwise. More cooking time also would have benefitted the cod. My fellow diners praised their plates, and generously offered tastes. Fortunately, the meal hit another high point during the final course. A strong lineup of fine, domestic and imported cheeses tempted. But after so many rich foods, I appreciated the short dessert list’s focus on fruit, including a grapefruit-yuzu curd ($8) that set my mouth watering. Citrus’ affinity for beets usually is confined to the salad course. But this dessert distilled beets into a powder dusting clouds of meringue. The root vegetable’s essence grounded the gelatin-like curd, shaped like a wavy ray of sunshine on the plate. Sharing even less in common, olives with chocolate stumped all of us for the briefest moment. But our friends would not be denied the menu’s only cocoa-based dessert ($8). Indeed, slightly bitter, salty, dried olives were no misstep in their dance with a delicious chocolate ganache. Public House, 258 A St., Ashland, is open from 4 to 10 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Call 541-488-9128. See www.publichouseashland.com . — Sarah Lemon MailTribune.com Writer Posted Jul. 3, 2015 at 12:01 AM » Comment or view comments Reader Reaction » STAY INFORMED Email NewsLetter Sign Up Today Sign up for our newsletter and have the top headlines from your community delivered right to your inbox. Southern Oregon Directory Featured Businesses Loading... 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