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On Super Bowl Sunday, while the rest of the universe was consuming 7-layer dip and chili dogs, our main appetizer was a feast of freshly steamed soft shell clams that had been dwelling in the Yaquina estuary near Newport a mere 24 hours earlier. The canny clammer, our friend Paul, had pulled them from the briny depths himself, tumbled them into a bucket filled with fresh sea water, then tended to them throughout the day, changing the water frequently as the clams purged themselves of their sandy grit. During the pregame show, Paul and I readied the clams for steaming. We strained off the sea water and gave them a good rinse. Then Paul sorted them to make sure we were only going to steam the live ones. In truth, there were no casualties, but the way to tell is to give each open clam a nudge and if it doesn’t close — or at least nudge back — chuck it. While he arranged them in a large roasting pan, I sliced some lemons and garlic, which we added to the clams, along with enough pinot gris to produce a healthy head of steam in the pan without drowning the clams. Covered in foil, the pan was placed inside our gas grill, which had been preheated to about 400 degrees. You could also stick them in the oven, explained Paul, but ours was already taken. Once the wine came to a boil, we closed the lid and let the steamy goodness of that flavorful liquid work its magic. After about 15 minutes, we checked the progress and saw that the clams had opened, a sign that they were done. While Paul gently transferred the clams to a bowl, I poured the juices from the pan into a pot and simmered it until it had reduced by about half, which concentrated the flavors, making it a most succulent dipping sauce. For a second dipping option, Paul melted some butter and skimmed off the foam to produce a golden buttery sauce. From there it was only a matter of standing back and letting the group move in to enjoy one of the Pacific Northwest’s greatest treasures. I seem to gravitate toward this style of eating throughout the late-winter months. Indeed, this is a great time of year to invite a few folks over and gather around a bowl of freshly cooked steamer clams. It’s good eating at its friendliest; a straightforward culinary event requiring nothing more than hearty appetites and a generous supply of great-quality, crusty bread to sop up the flavorful juices in the bowl. If you aren’t lucky enough to have a personal clammer in your group, the clams to look for in the seafood case at your favorite market are the so-called “steamer” clams. That’s actually how you’ll find them labeled in most fish markets. Here in the Pacific Northwest, the clams you’re most likely to encounter within this category are native littleneck clams, butter clams and Manila clams. But don’t get too wrapped around the idea of having to know what kind of clams you’re purchasing, because chances are your shellfish provider won’t be able to tell you. They should know where they come from, though, which in many cases will be Washington, because there’s a thriving commercial clamming industry going on up there. For steamer clams, here’s all you need to know to get started: You’re dealing with a live organism, and you want them to be that way right up until you cook them. So, before cooking, discard any clams that aren’t closed (or don’t close when you nudge or tap them on their shell). After cooking, discard any clams that didn’t open during cooking. It’s that simple. Really. In between those two activities, all you’re doing is exposing some fresh and succulent bivalves to a bit of flavored liquid and heating them until they open. Throw that pot of cooked-open steamers into the center of a people-lined dinner table and discover just how easy it is to please a group of friends. What you cook your clams in is really up to you. I highly recommend trying the straightforward approach I described above, which is fairly classic: wine, garlic and a little bit of seasoning. But variations abound, so don’t be shy to create your own specialty of the house. From extra-garlicky to smokey-hot chipotle chiles, the outcome can be anything from subtle to fiery.   John Huyck’s Chipotle Clams Back when John Huyck was wowing folks with his Bombs Away Café cuisine in Corvallis, he shared this zesty Southwest approach to steamer clams. Serves 4. 50 Manila clams (or other fresh “steamer” clams) 2 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup diced yellow onion 2 teaspoons chopped garlic 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 ounces (1/4 cup) chipotle puree (see note below) 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro Lemon wedges Good bread Soak clams in fresh water for 10 minutes before using, which allows them to spit the sand they are holding, and thoroughly rinse and dry cilantro before chopping. Saute clams in butter, onions and garlic until they start to open, then deglaze the pan with wine, stirring and scraping to dissolve the flavorful cooked-on bits of food at the bottom of the pan. Add the cilantro and chipotle. Simmer until the clams completely open (discarding any that don’t), then serve immediately with lemon wedges. Use bread to sop up all the goodness after the clams are gone. Note on chipotle puree: You can find canned Chipotle con Escabeche at most grocery stores (check in the Mexican food section). Puree what you need and store the rest in a glass (or nonreactive metal) container in the refrigerator.   Robert’s Steamed Clams with Leeks, Ginger and Soy Sauce When Le Bistro was a part of the downtown Corvallis dining scene, owner/chef Robert Merlet shared this wonderful approach he takes with steamer clams. Serves 4. 3 cups sliced leeks (all of white and pale green and a portion of the dark green) 2 tablespoon olive oil about 1/2 teaspoon salt about 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper 2 tablespoon butter 36 to 40 clams, depending on size (about 1 pound) 1/2 cup water 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger about 1-1/3 cups diced Roma tomatoes 2 teaspoons soy sauce In medium-large pot, saute the leeks in the olive oil until bright green and softened. Add salt, pepper and butter and stir until butter is melted. Scrape the mixture from the pan into a dish and reserve. To the pot add the clams, water and ginger. Cover and cook just until the clams open, about 5 to 7 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove the clams to a serving dish. To the pot, add the tomatoes and soy sauce, stir and cook just until the tomatoes are heated through, then pour the mixture over the clams and serve.   Steamer Clams in Lots of Butter and Garlic Serves 4 to 6 3 tablespoons butter, unsalted (or, preferably, clarified) 1/2 tablespoon minced garlic 1-1/2 pounds Manila clams (about 37 to 45 clams, or other fresh “steamer” clams) 1/2 tablespoon fresh, minced parsley 3/4 cup dry white wine 1 lemon wedge per person In saute pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add garlic and clams, stir to coat clams with butter. Continue cooking until the garlic is softened. Add parsley and wine, then cover with a lid and cook until all the clams have opened, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the clams, discarding any that haven’t opened, and place the rest in a serving bowl, along with the juices from the pan. Garnish with wedges of lemon.   Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis food writer, artist, and author of “Oregon Hazelnut Country, the Food, the Drink, the Spirit,” and four other cookbooks. Readers can contact her by email at [email protected], or obtain additional recipes and food tips on her blog at www.janrd.com.