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Old favorite, new blood Longtime Jacksonville Inn owner Jerry Evans has taken on a couple of partners. But don't look for a lot of changes in the iconic restaurant and hotel, except that Evans might take a day off now and again By GREG STILES Mail Tribune JACKSONVILLE - Back in 1976, Jerry Evans parlayed $85,000, a bundle of energy and true grit into an endeavor that has become synonymous with this pioneer town's spirit and dining excellence. It has also kept the 65-year-old entrepreneur leashed tightly to his rambling downtown landmark. Whenever Evans strays away from the Jacksonville Inn for a few hours, it sets off rumors among faithful customers. "I've created a monster," he admits "People expect to see me here. If I'm gone just a few hours, somebody's going to come up to me the next time I see them and wonder if I was taking some time off." Truth is, Evans could scarcely have spent more time on the premises if he was under house arrest. Legend has it that Jack Bate - who operated the inn for its first nine years - was so sure that Evans would fail in his first culinary venture that he predicted the business would be back in his hands in 90 days. But more than a quarter of a century later, Evans hasn't been absent from work that many days. By his count he's had 86 days off in 26 years. In that period, Evans has not only developed a renowned inn, hotel and cottages to complement the dining room and bistro, but a catering service as well. During peak season, as many as 130 are employed. "We have a reputation to where we are judged against the finest places in metropolitan areas," Evans says. "We are a hell of a lot less expensive, but our costs are not a lot less." Sometime in the near future, Evan may take a few more days off. On April 28, he formalized a partnership with Mike and Jennifer Higgins, who acquired an 11 percent stake. Mike Higgins, 38, had been consulting with Jacksonville Inn for four months as the restaurant searched for an executive chef. During that process, Evans saw a little of himself and a lot of what he liked. "He and I are on the same wavelength," Evans says. "He has put every dime he has into (the business)." Whether it's making sure water glasses are filled, cleaning up a prom-night accident in the bathroom or scrubbing away grease in the kitchen, the duo leave little to chance. "Operationally, we really do see eye-to-eye," Higgins says. "I have a world of respect for Jerry, the amazing amount of energy, how sharp he is and how very detail-oriented. Details can fall through the cracks, but Jerry doesn't let that happen." The partnership signals some change, but assures long-term continuity. "We're going to make some changes, but we're not going to re-invent the place," says Evans. "I want to take a little more time off to spend with my wife. Michael is here to give me some time off. Frankly, 86 days off in more than a quarter century is not enough; it's amazing I still have a spouse." Evans noticed his dining room got grayer a few years ago and began making changes in an effort to build a customer base into future generations. "I've had a lot of loyal customers," Evans says, "but after a quarter of a century, a bunch of them are dead and a lot of them are retired." Some menu and preparation changes took, others didn't. Some customers raved about the changes, others said they were never coming back. "I backed off," Evans says. "We're going to evolve, but it's not going to happen overnight - we're still going to serve steak and prime rib." Higgins was operations manager the past 10 years at Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur, Calif., where nightly stays run between $455 and $835 per person. He has long dreamed of being an owner-operator in the hospitality industry. The Philadelphia native grew up spending summers on the Jersey shore. After visiting his sister, who was attending UC-Santa Barbara, one summer, he moved west. Jennifer Higgins is originally from Stayton, so when the couple looked to move north from California's central coast, Southern Oregon was a logical, if not obvious, destination. "I've been spoiled living on the coast for the past 20 years," he admits. "I wasn't sure about living an hour and a half from the coast, but the natural beauty of this area has been a real draw." In his role as consultant, Higgins helped bring Wendy Little, a graduate of LaVarenne Cooking School in Paris, as executive chef. The challenge is now to mesh Little's talents, long-term clients and the inn's future "There's definitely going to be a tightrope to walk," Higgins says. "We want to maintain the tradition Jerry's brought in, but without alienating the current clientele, I want to attract my generation with a little bit of a different menu." What won't change is Evans' style. "He's a guy who demands perfection," business associate Jeff Chamberlain says. "Some of the people who have gone to work for him have likened it to boot camp. When they go to work for Jerry Evans, he puts them through a real training program. He teaches them how to do it right, there is no mediocrity in his operation." But there's more to Evans than the precise "nit-picking ways" learned from Glenn Harris, a senior vice president at Harry and David. "I think Jerry recognizes an opportunity and capitalizes on it," says Chamberlain. "The fact he recognized the opportunity to build the cottages enhanced his business and the overall community. He's able to convince people to see things the way he sees them and that's not always easy to do in Jacksonville." Although he's spent most of his waking hours here, he still resides on Cherry Lane in Medford, where he tries to be home in time to catch the Leno and Letterman monologues after the late news. He grew up in Shady Cove on the Rogue River. "I was a real hillbilly and I kind of broke loose," Evans says. "Someone thought it might be a good idea if I went to college." He went to work, married and had two sons. Evans spent 20 years with Bear Creek Corp., rising to production manager for the Harry and David and Jackson & Perkins units - overseeing activity on the west side of the railroad tracks. He was poised to take a position with Jackson & Perkins that would have meant moving to Bakersfield, Calif. - a move his ski-racing kids couldn't imagine. "They dug in their heels," Evans recalls. "It ended up that the offer was rescinded." Still, Evans was disappointed and began looking for other opportunities. He found one in Jacksonville - still more of a dusty reminder of pioneer days than an exclusive historic enclave in 1976. The Jacksonville Inn was stuffed into what is now the downstairs Bistro area, beneath a law office occupying what is now the main dining area. The same upstairs rooms that today rent for $135 to $165 nightly went for $10-$12. Mon Desir, outside Central Point, was a more likely destination for fine diners. "It almost had a negative reputation," Evans says. The $85,000 didn't include the building or land, just the business. Evans put everything he could scrape together into the deal and still didn't have enough. "Swift Meat Company gave us our first delivery on credit and fortunately we sold it for more than we paid for it," recalls Evans. "It was probably between $500 and $1,000 worth." Evans lured Mon Desir founder Julie Tummers, who had retired to the coast, to lend her kitchen expertise and recipes. "That gave us instant credibility," Evans says. "The first ads we ran said 'Julie's back' and that brought a lot of her old customers in. That was a real key." Between Tummers and Little, the Jacksonville Inn had two executive chefs - Jesse Bartyzal, presently the Rogue Valley Medical Center chef - and Diane Menzie - who now plies her trade at Rogue Valley Manor. Developer Chamberlain, who has built retirement homes in Oregon and Virginia, entered into a partnership with Evans and Bob Methin when they bought the Redmen's Building, housing the J'ville Tavern, across California Street, and nearby honeymoon cottages. Evans says he never looked to branch out beyond Jacksonville. "So many people have one successful diner and then they start rolling out more," Evans says. "The next thing you know, they're out of business." Indeed, it would be too difficult to make sure all the water glasses were filled or that the knives and forks were perpendicular to the table edge if he were running multiple establishments. "My endorphins, what makes me feel best, is a full house of satisfied customers when I go home at night," he says. "But I can't achieve that all the time." For now, he says, he'll do what he does daily and train for the annual Pear Blossom Run. "I'm not going away," he says, "And I have no desire to retire." Reach reporter Greg Stiles at 776-4463 or e-mail [email protected] Mail Tribune Home | Ottaway Newspapers, Inc. | Dow Jones & Co., Inc. | Privacy | Contact Us Copyright � 2001 Mail Tribune, Inc.