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Pucker up for ‘pie plant’ By Sarah Lemon Jun 15, 2022 12:45 AM A A 4 View all photos Mild start to Southern Oregon summer should extend rhubarb season Savory rhubarb and summer cherry chutney. (Eberly Film Labs/The Daily Meal; Shannon Kinsella/food styling/TNS) Strawberry rhubarb bread pudding. (Eberly Film Labs/The Daily Meal; Shannon Kinsella/food styling/TNS) Lemony rhubarb compote. (Eberly Film Labs/The Daily Meal; Shannon Kinsella/food styling/TNS) Sarah Lemon/Mail Tribune Rhubarb Upside Down Cake They go together like peanut butter and jelly. The marriage of fresh strawberries and rhubarb, however, is far more fleeting than classic companionship suggests. And for rhubarb aficionados, in particular, the season often is much too short. Happily, the mild start to summer in Southern Oregon should extend the season for garden-grown rhubarb and stalks sold at local farmers markets and grocers. Amid mild conditions, rhubarb, which typically emerges in April, will retain its stunning magenta hue that blanches to green under searing sunshine. Preferring wet climates with wintertime temperatures around 40 degrees, rhubarb is a Pacific Northwest specialty of reliable commercial yield. Oregon is the top U.S. producer of rhubarb and, in concert with Washington, supplies almost all of the country’s field-grown crop. So it’s a shame prolific rhubarb too often is pigeonholed by its sour disposition that cooks try to improve with copious quantities of sugar. That urge has yielded somewhat repetitive recipe repertoires: pies, puddings, crisps, crumbles, chutneys, sauces and syrups. Rhubarb’s longtime nickname, “pie plant,” reinforces cooks’ preference for using it in desserts and preserves. Fortunately, all that sugar can’t totally diminish rhubarb’s nutritional profile. The pucker-provoking vegetable related to celery is high in vitamins C and K; it’s also a good source of dietary fiber and one of nature’s top plant sources of calcium. It’s little wonder rhubarb was used for at least 1,000 years medicinally before it was embraced as a food, particularly during cold weather when little other fresh produce was available. Rhubarb stays fresh in the fridge for about three weeks. Always compost or discard rhubarb’s green leaves, which contain high concentrations of oxalic acid that can cause serious health problems in humans and pets. Growing my own rhubarb for several years, I experimented with its surprisingly savory side in quick pickles to complement cheeses and charcuterie. Roasting rhubarb or sautéing it in bacon fat renders it silky but complex, perfect for early summer salads with asparagus and goat cheese. Rhubarb also has an affinity for Asian ingredients, namely fish sauce, soy sauce and Sriracha to dress cabbage slaws and rice noodles. This chutney seasoned with ginger and coriander complemented my family’s Easter roast lamb but would be equally delicious with ham, turkey or grilled pork. It was the ideal repository for sour cherries stashed away from last summer in my freezer. But now that cherries are coming on again, another batch won’t be far off, and it freezes beautifully. Rhubarb, itself, freezes well. Just dice it and arrange on a baking tray for freezing, then transfer to a resealable plastic freezer bag. That technique allows me to keep rhubarb on hand all year to make my partner’s favorite strawberry-rhubarb tarts and pies, as well as this new favorite, Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake, its intrigue heightened by fresh ginger. I simply substitute a good knob of peeled and minced, fresh root for the recipe’s ground ginger. You can even replace the batter’s sour cream with Nancy’s all-natural, honey-flavored yogurt. Fans of moist, custardy desserts, my family also would relish this bread pudding, which could even pass for breakfast. The accompanying compote could be made ahead to prolong enjoyment of rhubarb with strawberries, dolloped over shortcakes. Savory Rhubarb and Summer Cherry Chutney 8 to 10 long stalks fresh rhubarb, 2 pounds total 1/2 medium-size white onion, peeled and finely chopped 1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar 1/2 small orange, finely chopped (1/2 cup) 1/2 lemon, seeded, finely chopped (1/4 cup) 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced or crushed 1 tablespoon peeled and grated, fresh ginger 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger 1 cup halved pitted sour cherries (fresh or frozen) or dried cherries Trim ends off the rhubarb stalks and discard leaves. Cut rhubarb in half lengthwise. Cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. You will have about 8 cups. In a large non-aluminum Dutch oven, mix all the ingredients, except the cherries. Cover and heat to a simmer. Reduce heat to low. Cook covered, stirring often, until onion is tender, for about 15 minutes. Stir in the cherries. Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Uncover. Cook and stir until thick enough to coat back of a spoon, for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve warm, at room temperature or divide among small, covered containers and refrigerate up to several days or freeze for several months. Makes about 5 cups. Strawberry Rhubarb Bread Pudding 1 loaf (16 ounces) honey, whole wheat or sprouted 7-grain bread Butter, as needed 2/3 to 1 cup strawberry rhubarb preserves or reduced-sugar strawberry fruit spread or preserves 6 large eggs 2 cups whole milk (or a combination of skim milk and half-and-half) 1 (13.5-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk (OR 1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream or oat milk or more dairy milk) 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg Confectioners' sugar Lemony Rhubarb Compote, warmed slightly for serving (recipe follows) Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, for serving (optional) If bread is unsliced, slice it into 1-inch-thick slices. Cut bread slices into 2-inch pieces. You should have 10 to 12 cups. Heavily butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Put bread pieces in pan in an even layer. Use a small spoon to evenly distribute dollops of the strawberry rhubarb preserves over bread pieces, using 2/3 to 1 cup preserves. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until smooth. Whisk in the milk, unsweetened coconut milk, vanilla, salt and nutmeg. Gently pour egg mixture over bread, making sure to moisten everything. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate 2 hours or overnight. Heat oven to 375 F. Remove plastic wrap and let dish stand at room temperature while oven heats. Bake in preheated oven until puffed and golden, for 40 45 minutes. Remove from oven and dust heavily with confectioners' sugar. Use a spatula to serve squares of pudding on warmed plates. Top with a generous spoonful of the Lemony Rhubarb Compote. Serve with whipped cream or ice cream if desired. Makes 6 servings. LEMONY RHUBARB COMPOTE: Trim ends from 8 to 10 rhubarb stalks, discarding leaves. Cut rhubarb stalks in half lengthwise. Cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. You will have about 8 cups. Alternatively use about 2 pounds frozen, sliced rhubarb. Put rhubarb in a large saucepan with 1 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon lemongrass puree (optional), 2 teaspoons lemon rind and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Heat over medium-high, stirring continuously for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low. Cook, uncovered, stirring often, until rhubarb softens and mixture thickens, for 6 to 10 minutes. If using strawberries, stir in 1 quart hulled and sliced berries; simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Serve warm. Or, divide among small covered containers and refrigerate up to several days or freeze for several months. Makes 5 to 6 cups. Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake Cooking spray, as needed 1 cup packed light-brown sugar, divided 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger 2 cups rhubarb, tough strings removed, cut into 1/2-inch pieces 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1/4 cup yellow cornmeal 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened 1 large egg 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest 1/2 cup sour cream Preheat oven to 350 F. Spray an 8-inch, round cake pan with some of the cooking spray. Line with a circle of parchment paper and spray parchment. In a small bowl, whisk together 1/2 cup of the brown sugar and the ginger. Sprinkle evenly over bottom of parchment-lined pan. Sprinkle the rhubarb pieces over sugar mixture. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking soda and salt. In a large bowl, combine the butter and remaining brown sugar; using an electric mixer, cream together until fluffy. Add the egg, vanilla and lemon zest, beating until well-combined. Beat in 1/3 of flour mixture, alternating with 1/2 of the sour cream, and ending with flour mixture, scraping down sides of bowl after each addition. Spoon cake batter over rhubarb and smooth with a spatula. Bake in preheated oven until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, for 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool in pan on rack for 10 minutes, invert onto a rimmed serving platter and let stand for 5 minutes. Carefully lift pan from cake and peel away parchment if it is sticking to cake. If any fruit has stuck to parchment paper, place it back on cake. Let cool for an additional 15 minutes and serve warm or let cool to room temperature. Makes 8 servings.