Document text
March 13,1949.
Mrs, Van Winder Shields
64L7 ouk-et.,
Jacksonville,
Florida
(:urly resident)
one Aepherd,Writer
LASTON VILL. AL XR1 RIk -Surly Jacksonville.
Mrs. Shields, the Widow of the Rev. Van Winder 111.01ds,
for muny .ears the beloved rautor of 6t. Johns ;pisuopul
is no in ft4iiin health dald hud to cancel two previous 4-,ppoint-
fulnts belore feelin ub,,, to see th) writer A; se oielock in the
afternoon or this rleasant muroh day.
"1 do not rise until,noon, and even than the day seems long,"
she Said Plaintively. "my eyesight is very poor;I have not bleu
able to read anjthinR exceTit the broad headlines of the newspapers
for some time, und it is u ,:reat disadvantage, as I used to enjoy
reading so much. M y son comes in the evening and reads to me, also
my daugftter and -7runddaughter.read the papers and magazines, so I
keep in touch with what is going. on in the world and locally.
"My information may not be of much value, but be glad to
give you what I have known of eaoksonville for the past fifty years.
"mr. ehielde .and I cm* with our small family in 1889 from
MOW Dern, north Oarolina. I am sorry to till ycu ho much i dis-
liked the change. The parish at mew Dern ha4 been long established;
the church was beautiful, the rectory roomy and comfortable, and
in such a lovely setting. of course, the altitude is much higher
there, the air was so pure and cool, lovely old oak and elm trees
all around the place, and homes of the old families. In contrast,
Jacksonville seemed so barren, with its sandy streets and no pave
discouraging.
min". There is nothing in ma of the pioneer spirit;the prospect was/
"Aight next to the parish house at mew nirn, tievornor Tryon
26083
Mrs. Van winder ohields 2.
*rooted the magnificent mansion which caused such an upheaval'
in sorth Wireline politics, resulting later in his impeadhment and
removal from his high office.
"when the building witt8 174,441/ted, it became the rectory school,
for which purpose it was well adapted. After we left there, it
burned, only one long retaLninR wall remaining intect. uonsidered
a menace to adjoining property, an attempt was made to forcibly
tear it down, but the fire had so glazed and welded the bricks
together that it was impossible tp make any inroads, and the
:struoture still stands, a silent reminder of north uarolina's
stormy governor.
"Mx. ktields was very anxious to sucoeed in his new charge,
wanted to acioomplish big things in Jaoksonville; I wanted also to
help and be a part of his acoomplishments, so i started in to adapt
myself to the change from the old settlement to the new, and the
people of Jacksonville were eo wonderful to us, and especially to
me, that new friends and now interests replaced the old, and i soon
forgot my homesickness.
skeyotonelwas at its levliest when we first came. ers.eummings
came to ot. Johns and met or. 4ihields and myself.- ohs was each a
'Zinc, devout woman, we became v.r5, fond of her. Her husband turned
out to be a very unworthy man, but her disappointment never seemid
to disturb her own oalm or her faith in other people.
"Mrs. Cummings was the daughter of Packer, promoter and
,developer of the ehigh Valley Railroad., of kenneylvamial and ill-
herited a very large fortune. 'Keystone had been developed as
a winter home. "heir summer residenue was at memohunk, 2ennsylvania
Where Mr. Shields and I also visited Ars. Cummings on two ocoagione.
Mrs. Van Winder ohields b.
"Mr. Platt, the Anglish ouretaker at 'Keystone', weaned to
be a perfect wizard with the flowers and gardens. Mrs. Cummings
was especially fond, of roses, and there were great bed. of both
red and white 'American counties'. When she went north in the
spring, ar. Platt had orders to supply me tith roses, and each
week he brought them in to me great armfuls. A few sta41s re-
main of the old plantings.
"There was an artesian well of splendid water on the place.
There were a number of buildings besides the residence and the
ouretaker's house at the gate. There wire large stables, a oar-
penter shop, a separate laundry building, also the bowling alley,
with a front room for plying cards.
The swimming pool was a reat attraction, as well as the ten-
nie courts, tith ilearby a dance pavilion. The children of St.Jelins
used to have many good times th3re pionios, dances, and other
outings.
"At
rectory,
Cummings
we lived
mouth of
"At
They were always welcomed by their gracious hostess.
the time of the great fire of 1901, Qt. Johns Ohuroh, the
and most of our personal belongings were swept away. Mrs.
(Jame to our rescue, taking us clown to 'Keystone' there
for six months, returning again to Jacksonville in the
September.
this time, Mr. Platt. would place kerosene lantern. all
around to light up the ground., but in the house we burned candles.
"The destruction of Jacksonville had disrupted the sewerage,
and everybody was ill. We all had malaria and were dreadfully
sick all summer. For many years i could not bear to go to 'Keystone'
as the memory of the terrible helooaust and our long illness after-
wards was hard to efface.
mrs. Van Winder iJhields 4.
"During our six months at Keystone' Mrs. Cummings discussed
with my husbamd her plan to leave the Property to the ehuroh for a
children's home, and asked his advice as to whether ohs ltould in
her will designate the Xpisoopal Pieces. or St. Johns uhuroh parish
as the beneficiary.
"W husband suggested St. Johns, und asked that she designate
it as a home for the better class of b.1, as there was enough done
and sometime too much for the indigent ohildren, while there was
no help for tha advancement of the more promising. Also, he felt
girls were in most oases better provided for by different charities
than boy*. 4,nd so, at we* Cummings' death, the property came to
St. Johns Church as the 'Keystone Acme for boys'.
"Wm Mr. Ambler Blookford was plaoed in charge. He had re-
ceived splendit training for this partioular work under his father,
who for forty years was prinoipal of the Hpisoopal High School in
Ablexandria, Virginia. He has done wonderful work and during his
regime three fine young olergymenamve developed from the boys in
his charge, whose education he supervises.
"The endowment left by Mrs. Cummings was at first entirely
sufficient for the upkeep of Keystone but now it is not, and
Hey. and Mrs. Blackford have a hard time making thisimicone stretch
sufficiently to clover the requirements of the eleven boys now in
residence there.
"Added to his many accomplishments, mrs Blaokford is an ex-
pert with flowers, espeoially calla lilies, which he has developed
to a high state of beauty and hardiness. The vase on the mantel
in the dining room bears a **son beauties he brought in to me today.
Mrs. Van Winder dhields
6.
"Well, back to early duys again. fter a short while, we
came to love the people of Oacksonville, and they uertainly loved um
and river failed, to show it.
"There were many old families, who,with their desoendantsehad
been here SiD30 the incorporation of the town. And what should we
not owe these pioneers They who built up their church, bringing
up their children amid hardship and few facilities, but with the
steadfast faith to oarry.ony
grand-
"My younger son has married a western girl, whose/parents were
'49ors of Colorado, and I um astounded at the stories they have
handed down to their children of their early struggles in the west;
the ever-present scourge of savage Indians; the pitiful young mother
giving birth to a still -born baby the same day her first child died
of a lingering fever. But they survived, how I cannot understand;
I never ;mild have done it, because, as I said, I have not a pioneer
spirit.
"But we hud good times, even in the curly 1890's. Sveryone was
so kind and friendly. I remember the 'Patriarchs' a dancing'club
of young people. Sometimes they wymt to the Yaoht Club at the foot
of Market 4)treet, and again to the Seminole Club for their dance
parties..
"I used to chaperone ay two older sons ohaperenes were con-
sidered proper for young people's affairs then, although they are
completely 'eft' new. The aliApit an orchestra; sometimes a stringed
band would furnish the music. Judge Young used to oome, and Govern-
or 'liming was a frequent visitor to the 'Patriarchs and also to
the Yacht Club dunces, and they would dance and dance. I think it
is fun for the older people to take such interest and enjoy themselves.
nrs. Van Winder ohields
6.
"During the 1901 fire the Xaoht Ulub %as burned, and. another
location was soleoted on the river opposite where the market now is,
which was later disposed of and the club established in its pres-
ent looation.
"After the fire the only building of consequence left standing
in the downtown section was the old Armory at rorsyth and market
Strsets. The first 'Patriarchs' dance was held there, Lt was
a fancy drone ball, and the prise costume was that of mid
Riding
hood worn by 44 Iowa young lady.
"all the dances started Promptly at 9 o'olock, and at midnight
olosed with Rome Sweet home.'
"There were never any refreshments. I remember in the early
1900's, while the men would go downstairs to the bur for drinks,
the girls had nothing, not even lemonade, und the girls rebelled.
Ono was slanohe baker, who said she would never cone to another
dance unless the girls were provided with refreshments, too. Two
or three held out with her, but :he young men were adamant. Final-
ly they were told it *as pretty ugly of them to offer such persistent
opposition, and they gave in. After that, the 'Patriarohs' girls
and all, as well 4s the chaperones had refreshments.'
"Yes, i reme,aber 'Villa Alexandria' very well. It was in its
heyday when i first ki,Zie to Jaoksonville, and tkiiij a most beautiful
plaoe. Now, all thLt remains as a reminder is the doubls row of
Clanhor trees Mrs. Mitchell thought camphor in time would be
produced oommeroially in Ylorida, the trees were so prolific and
grow so readily and she said -'David will ulways have plenty of
money to carry on this venture.' Poor David: Little did anyone
think of the failure of the Large fortune which should hare Gene tO
him.
r_rs. 1an vAnd,Jr hie1e7.
"And the old fountain, too, is still there.
"I remember one hot day in the summer, the yells our
neighbors and L were asked down to villa Alexandria for luncheons
'he yells had horses and a nice carriage, amd we arrived in state
after a long warm Journey.
"Mrs. Mitchell, who was a small dark woman, was on the porch
to receive us, 011 dressed in beautiful white silk, with young
iJavid, also in white, by her side to de the honors.
"After chatting a while, we were invited into the beautiful
dining room, with the rare furnishings which oharacterised the
house throughout; the imported paintings in panels on the walls,
the fresoe** ceilings, the mahogany dining table with its laoe
cloth, and in the oenter was an alokhel lamp with a steaming ket-
tle for hot tea on this blistering clay!
*Mrs. Mitchell 41-d china painting as a hobby, having a kiln
in the yard where she fired her pieoes. on the table this day
were a set of six teacups and saucers, painted in brilliant ool-
ors by hr awn hand, with gold edges and goldepuinted handles.
She apologised for the heavy coat of gold, saying: could net
seem to make the ordinary gold stick, so A. melted up five or six
ten dollar gold pieces and used that on these cus and saucers.'
"It was a treat to walk over the beautifully landscaped
gfounds, with ibported trees, floors and shrubs, Over the end
of the perch was the most beautiful vine I have ever seen. At was
like the 'love vine' of alexia° with its red heart -shaped flowers,
except the flowers on this vine were snow-white.
"And young David Mitchell, mrs. Mitchell's grandson, hat every-
thing on the face of the e3rth that his doting grandmother could
supply. And 'how he triad to hold on to the ad place when die-
Mrs'. an Winder nhields 8.
aster evneloped the Mitchell tortoni!' lie slept in the old empty
house, claiming he had title to it, even after it had been legally
transferred to others; and on one occasion shot a real estate man
who tried to take possession. un another occasion it was reported
Mr. Stockton had offered him gb0,000. for a quitolaim deed, but this
he r'fused, claiming he was the sole owner.
"Another place below"Leystonel was owned by the matthows,,
also Pennsylvania people. AS soon as she hid the place opened in
the winter, mrs. Matthews used to send for me to spend the day,
endue sooner had i arrived after the long drive than she would sail
'Come, let's take a walk through the woods and around the place;
it's like Paradise!' I presume it did seem like Paradise to her,
in comparison with the cold of her northern home, but I was not so
keen on long tramps through the woods. I Preferred my earadise in
views from the front porch.
"'Do you think we will get the government air-basey" she asked,
in quick shift of the conversation to the present. "I hope we do.
Jacksonville is the logical place for it.
"114, i do not believe the noise of overhead airplanes will be
much of a disturbance. We will just have to get used to it, they
are bound to come sooner or later.
"I remember one time we moved into a North Carolina section,
where our home was near a sawmill. my niece came to visit us, and
she said: 'Auntie, how in the world do you stand 411 that racket?'
I told her it did bother for a couple of days, but after the third
day i. never noticed it, and so it will be with the numerous airplanes.
"We will get the Ylorida ship °anal, too. i feel sore of it.
Garry bookman and Walter Coachman, those two fine floridians i have
Mrs. Van Winder shields 9.
known almost sine' they were born. They have got their teeth into
this thing, and they'll never be satisfied until the °anal is as-
sured.
"You know," she said reminiscently, "I um very fond of boys.
I seem to get along with them better than girls. keys are so frank
and out in the open with everything. They may be as bad as the mis-
chief, but they'll come through with the truth. Girls are differ-
ent. They always seem to be on the defensive and conceal most of
their thoughts. This was explained to me once by a noted teadher
who was a guest at our home for several days. He said; qirs.shi•us,
a woman has to be on the defensive side. At first, she has to de-
fend her young, then her actions and her reputation, so it is nat-
ural for her not to be quite so frank and aboveboard as the male
SIX.'
"Speaking of the canal," she went back to her former subjeot,
"You know Acrid& has more than once been interested in a arose
state canal. I remember one. Governor /liming had some very dis-
tinguished guests whom he entertained at dinner and mr. Shields
and myself were invited. Next to me sat General GPat448,, an
army man, a member of the party which was on a tour of inspection
of slorida, considering the possibility of constructing a canal.
Re entertained me all evening with his enthusiastic) prognostications_
of the value of such a feature, the time it would save ships in
reaching points on the %iv': of Maio. and ()antral America, instead
of the long trip around the end of the peninsula. He said the
Texas people were anxious for it, since it weld bring them two
days nearer in Atlantic shipping service.
Mrs. Van Winder ohields 10.•
"BY 'Ow way," mra. ohields said, "1 just happened to remember
one inuident that took place one evening shortly after our arrival
in ,Jacksonville, that came hear resulting seriously.
"We had just sat down to sapper. There was a knook on the
door, and the mulatto cook came running in, her face an ashen white,
and blurted out without ceremony, 'Dah's a strange man at the de'
says Us's house is afiahl"
"The 'strange young n'turned out to young mr. 0. D. Rinehart.
The roof was ablaze around the chimney of the rectory, an old rather
run down building a short distance from where the present bt. Johtts
rectory stands. Mr. Rinehart went with um to the attic, which had
beoome A storehouse for old unused furniture, and helped us pull
away some old chairs from the path of the flames, and NAth buckets
of water and strenuous beating we soon had the flames extinguithed.
"So Us's house lasted until the big fire swept,At out of
existence along vith the church and other buildings in that sec-
tion."
The afternoon was now well past and members of the fumily
1ire coming in to supper, so the intervivw 'as brought to a close,
with mrs. Shields volunteering any additional inform,tion that
migjat be helpful.