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- Subscribe - Contact Us - Rate Card - Place an Ad Archives Revels Classifieds Real Estate Menu Guide Wedding Weather Subscribe Contact Us May 2, 2005 Essentially Ashland Since 1976, Brothers’ Restaurant has been a treat off the Plaza A kosher pickle cracked the case in a 1981 break-in Lance Pugh In the winter of 1981 I took my first chairlift ride to the summit of Mt. Ashland. The easiest way down was a run called Circe, which I believe, in retrospect, is Latin for skiing over an 8-foot tree while out of control. I don’t know how I did it but the tree snapped just as my eyes crossed and I landed on my head with two broken skis and a moaning pain known only to men. The act was later referred to as a Circecism in the branch office. As witness to my feat I walked back to the backwards lodge, carrying my skies and dragging the tree. I entered the lodge and immediately went through the line at Geppetto’s Mt. Ashland Cafe, ordering myself a face-plant burger, but settled for a cheeseburger and an order of fries for the Bruce the Spruce. It was then that I first laid eyes on one of the soon new owners of Brothers’. In the fall of 1980 Bob Evoniuk and Beth Levin came to Ashland from Eugene to check out our small berg. By the spring of 1981 they had moved here and during September had purchased Brothers’ from Brent Brody, who first opened up the operation in 1976. Brothers’ Restaurant near the Plaza in downtown Ashland has proved its staying power by continuing to serve food since 1976. Inset, Beth Levin and Stacey Burfiend work out of the restaurant in 1982. Submitted photo In the very early spring of 1981 Bob got a job with Ron Roth and Kathleen MacMichael at Geppetto’s as a cook. He also had to pass the approval of Joanie McGowan, who, even then, sported a hairdo bigger than a peach tree and a smile that could light up an auditorium. He got three thumbs up and was hired. Bob additionally worked at the Mount Ashland Cafe, requiring a very cold early morning ride in the back of a pickup truck up to the mountain holding on to the many boxes of burgers, buns, potatoes and condiments that needed daily restocking. He liked his job, but was now thinking of working with Beth on opening an operation of their own. By mid-June they were working on the Brothers’ deal and by Sept. 15 they had the keys to the door. Bob and Beth inherited a strong team that hashandling the restaurant well. John Stanton, already a legendary chef, seemed larger than life and his talent in the kitchen drew a large following of locals who grew to appreciate his style. Bev Starkweather and Stacey Burfiend were the extremely solid and reliable glue that kept the service running smoothly. No matter how busy things got, both were always pleasant and efficient. Together with John they made the Brothers’ staff a formidable team, gently rebuffing any and all attempts to be overwhelmed by the crush looking for the crisp taste of a good deli. The first five years were nearly all-consuming, as is the case with most food operations. Bob and Beth were walking a fine line by trying to be both bosses and peers. They were young and green, but kept at it day after day. Brothers’ was Ashland’s first run at a Kosher Deli. The menu changes slowly over time: the liver and onions took a hike and tofu rounded third base and slid safe into home. Coffee was seriously upgraded to the appreciation of all. Jello bounced out the door along with the Musak, replaced by taped music, beer and wine. They managed to massage the menu without getting anyone riled up. This world needs more diplomats like them. On New Years Day in 1983, smoking also got the boot. Bob and Beth were clearly becoming more health conscious and demanded that, together, they kick some serious ash. The clientele rolled with this punch and soon the air reflected only the goodness of the kitchen. Changes were made in the workplace to allow it to be comfortable to work 10-12 hours and not get the sinking feeling that you had just lost a slice of your life. Consequently the turnover was low and they had some of their team for 15 or 16 years. The staff banded together, much like a family, and traveled, played and partied together. If someone couldn’t make a shift, another would gladly fill the slot. Three employees just got back from a trip to the Honduras; such is the strength of the bond. Bob liked his role as mentor to his younger staff. They were kids growing into adults, struggling with the many challenges of personal development. They needed to work as they made their way and Bob offered a few guideposts along the road of life. Many forms of relationships developed within the walls of Brothers’: Bob and Beth with their employees, the employer and the employee and employees with the customers. Everyone worked on all of this and the result was a relaxed and light feeling. In 1996 they stopped serving dinners and opened on Mondays, when most of the other operations were closed, resulting in a boost of business. It also gave them back their evenings as they had a family to raise. On very early Christmas morning in 1981 Bob and Beth were called by the police to come immediately to the restaurant. They found that a front window had been broken and someone had entered straight into the deli. Whoever it was, they were hungry for some sliced meat and cheese, rolls of coins and, strangely, a big bite out of a kosher pickle. The next day Bob put out the word on the street that rolls of coins were to be looked upon with extra suspicion. Sure enough, that night the manager of the Beau Club called Bob and said someone was buying drinks for the house with rolls of quarters. The police were summoned and in a tour de force of forensic science the life of the party broke down and confessed when Bob pulled out the half-eaten pickle from a plastic bag, saying that a dentist would make a mold and match it with the pickled teeth marks. Case solved. Annette and I had brunch there the other day. We ordered our favorites along with coffee and enjoyed the consistently fine food, pleasant service all while chatting and reading the San Francisco Chronicle. I remember the day it opened and the day Bob and Beth took the reins and treasure the memories of all the people I’ve seen and talked to while putting marmalade on an English muffin, this before biting into my favorite: a crisp, cold, kosher pickle. Future columns will focus on many downtown businesses that have helped make Ashland unique: Jazmin’s, Alex’s, Omar’s and Brooklyn will lead the charge from times past to lend perspective to the revival of the Downtown. Send your favorite remembrances to: [email protected]. Drop by my blog and help me figure things out: http://essentiallyashland.blogspot.com/. 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