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- Subscribe - Contact Us - Rate Card - Place an Ad Archives Revels Classifieds Real Estate Guide Weather Subscribe Contact Us April 12, 2005 The Sustainable Kitchen Rhubarb: celery gone bloodshot After months of winter, and many meals consisting mainly of root vegetables, I can’t wait to taste the tart green spring bursting on the tongue. It’s rhubarb season again and, as always, I find myself intrigued by its contradictions. Rhubarb is usually used like a fruit, but botanically it’s a vegetable. Stu Stein Rhubarb’s long, elegant, celery-like stalks have a luscious rosy complexion, like a deep summer berry. But don’t let its good looks fool you. Bite into it raw, and you’ll be shocked by its aggressively bitter-tart taste. On top of that, its leaves are poisonous. Truly, a plant only a mother could love. I’m here to tell you to give this crimson beauty a chance. For starters, rhubarb is chock-full of vitamin C and dietary fiber. It adds a pleasing tartness to pies, sauces and jams, but only if sweetened with quite a bit of sugar. Rhubarb is at its most glorious when married with fruit flavors such as red berries and citrus. Its tart undertone provides a pleasing contrast to the sweetness of its partner, making both flavors more robust. Rhubarb, a perennial, requires winter’s frost to produce tender stalks in the spring. Characterized by its attractive strawberry-pink to cherry-red stalks, rhubarb has been referred to as the “pie plant” due to its natural affinity for nestling among strawberries in a pastry crust. But its culinary talents shouldn’t be underestimated, because it shines equally bright in cakes, crisps and savory soups. The key to unlocking rhubarb’s charms is to cook it long enough to soften its stalks and mellow its tang, and to pair it with something sweet or even salty. Once you’ve accomplished these tasks, sit back and enjoy its unique flavor. When shopping for rhubarb, choose the firmest, most brightly colored stalks you can find. If the leaves are still attached, completely remove them with a sharp knife and discard. Wash the stalks, and then cut them according to your recipe’s directions. Rhubarb stalks, securely stored in a plastic bag, should last several days in the crisper section of your refrigerator. Rhubarb’s talents extend beyond pies and cakes. The traditional function for rhubarb was as a remedy for a wide range of illnesses. This medicinal role made the plant highly prized. In 1542, rhubarb sold for ten times the price of cinnamon in France and in 1657 rhubarb sold for over twice the price of opium in England. Scientists have known for a while that the oxalic acid in rhubarb stems, the same stuff that makes your lips pucker, can be used to scour cooking pots. If aphids are pest in your garden, rhubarb can help. In her book “Slug Bread & Beheaded Thistles,” author Ellen Sandbeck describes a unique solution of rhubarb leaves and non-detergent soup as an insecticide spray. Rhubarb not only saves our plants from aphids, it may also save the planet. In the mid-1980’s, when a hole was discovered in the ozone layer, researchers found that CFC’s were one of the primary for the ozone’s decline. One of the most common forms of CFC’s is freon, which is used as a refrigerator coolant. Conventional methods for breaking down CFC’s were costly and dangerous. But in 1995, two Yale scientists discovered that oxalic acid, found in rhubarb, helped neutralize CFC’s. Who would have thought? Good and good for the planet! Roasted Beet and Rhubarb Soup Beets are not just for borscht and rhubarb is not just for dessert. The rhubarb in this recipe is used to harmonize with the other flavors in this soup and to round out the acidity in the wine and vinegar. Even if you are not a rhubarb or beet fan, I believe the color and flavor of this soup will make you a convert. 6 large red beets, scrubbed, tops removed 2 stalks rhubarb, leaves removed, roughly chopped 1 medium yellow onion, roughly chopped 2 teaspoons garlic, roughly chopped 1 teaspoon fresh ginger root, roughly chopped 1/2 cup red wine 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 8 cups water or vegetable stock 1 bay leaf kosher salt and white pepper, to taste Preheat oven to 350�F. Wrap beets in aluminum foil and place in oven. Roast for approximately one hour or until beets are easily pierced with a knife. Remove from the oven, unwrap foil and wait until cool enough to handle, then rub off the peel. Roughly chop 5 of the beets for the soup and cut the one remaining beet into matchstick-size pieces to use for garnish. In a large stock pot, place roasted beets, rhubarb, onion, garlic, ginger, red wine and balsamic vinegar. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until wine-vinegar mixture is reduced by half. Add the water or stock, bay leaf, salt and pepper and simmer, approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour or until vegetables are tender. Remove bay leaf. Working in batches, purée soup in a blender until smooth. If soup is too thick, add hot water or stock until the desired consistency is achieved. Before serving, taste and adjust seasoning. Note: Be careful when blending this soup. Hot liquids have a tendency to “explode” out of a blender when being puréed. I recommend using an emersion-type hand blender. This allows you to bring the blender to the soup instead of the soup to the blender. To Serve, pour soup into warm bowls. Place the reserved matchstick size beets in the center of each bowl and serve with toasted, sliced baguette rounds rubbed with olive oil and garlic. Advance Preparation: As with many of our soups, the flavors become better and more complex if the soup is made several days ahead and given a day of rest in the refrigerator. Substitutions and Options: This soup can be served hot or cold. Wine Notes: Choose a wine with modest tannins, slight dark berry flavors and a little acidity. Recommended: 2001 J. Lohr, South Ridge, Syrah, Paso Robles, California or 2002 Domaine Tempier, Cuvée Classique, Rosé, Bandol, France. Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings, approximately 1 quart. 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