Document text
Making memories in Sky Lakes By Lee Juillerat Oct 14, 2022 12:30 AM A A 3 View all photos Hiker Gary Vequist makes his way up from the shore of Trapper Lake in the Sky Lakes Wilderness. [Photo by Lee Juillerat] Trapper Lake, in the Sky Lakes Wilderness, is a favorite stopping or camping place. [Photo by Lee Juillerat] A hiker traverses a burned-out area near near Wind Lake in the Sky Lakes Wilderness. [Photo by Lee Juillerat] There’s are reason it’s named the Sky Lakes Wilderness Area. Actually, about 200 reasons. That’s the approximate number of lakes in the 27-mile-long, 6-mile-wide Sky Lakes Wilderness that runs along both sides of Southern Oregon’s Cascades from its south boundary near Highway 140 to it northern border at Crater Lake National Park. Many of the lakes are named, but some — including seasonal water bodies that typically dry out by late summer or fall — are not. Because of its easy proximity to the Klamath Basin on the east and the Rogue Valley to the west, the wilderness and its lakes are popular destinations for day hikers, backpackers and equestrians. On a day outing last week, five of us stopped at or passed alongside about a dozen of Sky Lakes’ lakes while hiking about 12 miles. Instead of making an out-and-back trip, three headed north from the Cold Springs Trailhead while two headed south from the Nannie Creek Trailhead. After meeting near Deep Lake, we traded car keys, continued on, reached the trailheads, hopped in the car left behind then drove to the Pelican Guard Station near Rocky Point, where we regathered. The point-to-point switcheroo was initiated by Niel Barrett, who has lived most of his life in the Klamath Basin and has an encyclopedic knowledge about regional hiking and cross-country skiing trails. He and his partner, Marybeth Lee, who lived many years in the Rogue Valley and is intimately familiar with Sky Lakes, were joined by Robert Walters. They headed north while Gary Vequist and I aimed south. Gary and I followed the Nannie Creek Trail, contouring several hundred feet up through thick forests before passing near Puck Lake’s southern shore. Eventually, the trail worked its way downward, most notably weaving through a steep, rock-filled section of andesite debris. It’s a noisy section with boots and hiking poles creating a clatter of ringing rocks, a mishmash that sounds like a discordant symphony. We reached the Sky Lakes Trail in about 4 1/2 miles, where we snacked and hydrated before heading directly south. The Sky Lakes Trail parallels the more heavily traveled but far less scenic, lake-avoiding Pacific Crest Trail. We passed a series of lakes – Martin, Wind, Tsuga and, one of my favorites, Snow – before meeting up with Niel, Marybeth and Robert near Deer Lake. Instead of taking the Donna Lake Loop, Gary and I stayed on the Sky Lakes Trail, passing several unnamed lakes before sidling alongside lovely Marguerette Lake, often aptly dubbed “the Queen of Sky Lakes.” Nature’s beauty continued. Shortly after passing Marguerette, we paused for lunch alongside equally alluring Trapper Lake. Those stops generated memories of other times camping at both lakes, including a memorable two-night snowy winter stay at Trapper, which friends and I reached on cross-country skis. Marguerette has memories, too, including overnights with close friends and, many years ago, my pups. In any season, Trapper and Marguerette are worthy places to make base camp for a night or more. From Marguerette we continued south on the Sky Lakes Trail, passing ponds semi-hidden from the trail along with Wizard Lake, Lake Land and Deep Lake before reaching the junction with the Isherwood Trail. We stayed on the Sky Lakes Trail, which parallels the east side of Big Heavenly Lake, yet another beautiful blue lake made even more colorful this early fall by tree leaves and bushes glowing in evocative tones of crimson and amber. Instead of continuing on the Sky Lakes Trail at Big Heavenly’s south end, Gary and I followed the South Rock Creek Trail, which briefly sidles along Little Heavenly Twin’s east flank. The South Rock Creek was closed most of the summer by fallen trees and other damage stemming from years-ago forest fires. After learning from Anthony Benedetti — who oversees trail maintenance on the Fremont-Winema National Forest’s 100 miles of wilderness trails — that the trail had been cleared, we wanted to see how, and if, the area is recovering. Those fires burned away huge swaths of forest, but the regrowth sometimes offsets the otherwise charred landscape that, ironically, has exposed previously hidden views of peaks in and near the Mountain Lakes Wilderness. Our hike ended at the Cold Springs Trailhead, where we hopped in Niel’s car and drove to the Pelican Guard Station where Niel, Marybeth and Robert joined us a short time later. Plans already are in the works for more key swap hikes. After all, there’s more than a hundred lakes to see and enjoy. Reach freelance writer Lee Juillerat at [email protected] or 541-880-4139.