Mail Tribune News - High school lunch gets gourmet flavor

Mail Tribune (Medford, OR — Wayback)

2000-09-16

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Photo by Bob Pennell Ashland High School freshman Risa Roberts emerges from the lunch crowd with a piece of gourmet pizza from Ashland Bakery Cafe and a coffee drink. High school lunch gets gourmet flavor Now AHS teens can eat great food without leaving school By JONEL ALECCIA ASHLAND -- Judging by the menu board, this midday crowd might be noshing at some chi-chi cafe, a place where focaccia pizza and tofu stir-fry are specialities of the house. But the 300 diners swarming the lunch rush on a recent Thursday are students, not swanksters, and the upscale eats are typical fare at the revamped Ashland High School cafeteria. Since the mid-November opening of a new cafeteria, students free to leave campus have been staying put for offerings that make tuna surprise seem obsolete. "I don't spend the gas money if I stay here," says senior Tate Breswick, 17, juggling a plate of bowtie pasta with alfredo sauce. "And this is great." "The pasta salad is so immensely good," adds Risa Rogers, 14, a freshman filling up on pizza and a coffee drink. Breswick's pasta and Rogers' pizza join entrees such as vegetarian chili and teriyaki chicken, along with a full complement of salads, breads, drinks and desserts, all supplied through a district contract with the Ashland Bakery Cafe. "This isn't typical but this should be typical," says Marlane Webb, co-owner since June of the popular local restaurant. "We are providing good food that they can't get elsewhere." This isn't the first time Webb has nourished students at Ashland High. A longtime caterer and veteran of hotel food service, she was among several vendors -- including Taco Bell and Subway Sandwiches -- who had made their wares available at the school since 1994. But with construction of a $9.3 million theater complex, which includes the new cafeteria, the district sought a food service provider, and Webb was there, says Business Manager Loren Luman. "They've been the only ones that stayed on," he says. "We're starting a new approach here. I want to keep them." Part of that approach has been to give students reasons to remain on campus instead of heading to nearby fast food outlets and grocery stores. The best way is to offer a variety of quality foods at reasonable prices, says Webb, who serves up to 400 lunches and rings between $525 to $650 in sales on a typical day. "We won't give these kids anything that we wouldn't eat ourselves," she says. "No iceberg lettuce. No bottled dressing." Students here seem to appreciate those touches, as well as efforts to accommodate vegetarian and other food preferences. "Ashland does have a different mind-set for food," says Julie Kasiah, manager of the lunch program. But that quality still has to come at a low cost, she adds. A bowl of homemade vegetarian chili goes for $1.75. A pasta special, with bread, is $2, as is a sandwich of turkey on focaccia bread. On a recent Thursday, a full plate of enchiladas with Spanish rice was $2.50, while several popular items -- french fries, muffins, pasta salad -- went for $1. "This is, like, a good, well-rounded meal," says Stacy Foster, 15, contemplating an enchilada plate. "If this wasn't available, I'd go to Bento's or just have a piece of toast." Foster's praise is echoed by several students who now prefer to remain on campus for the 50-minute lunch period. "You have to eat faster if you don't eat here," says Nate Bosworth, 15. "And the chicken teriyaki? It's decent." Custodian Joannie Loughlin says the new food appeals to staff and students. "This is more kids staying on campus than I've seen in a long time," Loughlin says. "And the chicken stir-fry, it's excellent.'' Not everyone is noshing on the tofu and stir-fry dishes, however. Ashland Bakery Cafe workers also sell plenty of hamburgers and french fries. "I know what kids want," says Webb, the mother of an Ashland High freshman. "I go to the mall. I see what they eat." Most other school districts in Southern Oregon contract with Marriott Food Services for student meals. Ashland used to, too, until several years ago, when Marriott suddenly discontinued its contract with the district, citing low profits, Luman says. Ashland Bakery Cafe won't make much money, either, agree both Luman and Webb. The district contract awards the business 6 percent of profits -- if there are any after costs are subtracted, Luman says. That's fine by Webb, whose business with partner Scott Balcomb has recently expanded to include food service on Mt. Ashland. "We just love feeding people," she says. Mail Tribune Copyright �  The Mail Tribune 1998, Medford, Oregon USA