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‘Ancestral methods’ meet modern science at Troon By Paula Bandy Jul 20, 2022 12:00 AM A A Chemical-laden crops prevailed when Troon Vineyard’s first vines were planted in 1972. Chemicals developed for military use — and left over from World War II — were promoted in mainstream agriculture for high-yield, more “marketable” crops. In reality, those products were super-systemic and killed not only destructive insects, bacteria and plants, but all the healthy and good ones, as well. But bending nature to the will of chemicals was the zeitgeist of the times. When conventional chemical agriculture was introduced in the vineyards, it was a common and relatively unquestioned practice. We now understand these chemicals wreak havoc on all ecosystems, including plants, animals and people. Upon purchasing Troon in 2017, new owners Bryan and Denise White immediately looked to organic farming practices. Today, Troon is Demeter-certified biodynamic and Regenerative Organic Certified. One of the first things they realized was their 40 acres of grapevines were not healthy. Bryan White says, “Cabernet sauvignon planted 50 years ago had to be ripped out because of disease.” As Garrett Long, director of agriculture explains, “Through the use of chemicals and fertilizers to maximize yields, the original vines were pushed too hard and became sick.” So a massive restoration and replanting project began. Ten new acres were planted, and each year 10 acres have been removed and new vines planted. “We have one more year of removal/replanting,” says Bryan, “This replanting project presented many opportunities. One is a new, modern irrigation system sourced from a 2 1/2-acre spring-fed pond that doubles as a watering hole for migrating birds, waterfowl and wildlife.” From the decades of chemical use, the soil was depleted of nutrients. Long, recently a featured speaker at World Living Soils Forum in Provence, France, emphasizes, “Amazingly, increasing organic matter by only 1% can allow soil to hold more than 20,000 gallons of water per acre. There is a whole initiative about increasing soil organic matter globally by only 14%, which would get us out of part of the climate problem we’re in.” Troon’s vineyard soils are now healthy and supported by cover crops such as flowers, grasses and clovers that prevent evaporation and hold in nutrients, building future resilience for the grapevines. But why is soil so important? Healthy soil is full of living, tiny creatures. A cup of healthy soil contains more microbes than all the people who have ever lived on Earth combined. Soil fights climate change by holding and storing carbon dioxide that nourishes plants. Healthy soil also protects against flooding and combats droughts by creating balanced water systems. Healthy soils grow nutrient-rich food that provides better nutrition for all living things, including us. Highly important, and often not thought of, soil microorganisms that help plants resist disease also are part of nearly all antibiotics we take to fight infections, according to Regenerative Organic Alliance. Another consideration at Troon was planting different varietals better suited to the natural soil, this region and future climate changes. The 19 grapes planted are south and southwest French varietals chosen for climate, delicacy, nuance and terroir focus to make Provence-style wines. Half of Troon’s 100 acres are planted in grapevines. Also planted are orchards and gardens. “Forty varieties of French heirloom cider apples — rare, uncommon cultivars,” says winemaker Nate Wall, “are still a few years out, but we’ll be adding cider making to the menu. We utilize very old approaches to agriculture — ‘ancestral methods’ in many cases — with very modern, educated and scientific approaches. A recently completed farmstand will sell wine, flowers and produce in 2023. Reach Paula Bandy at [email protected] and connect with her on Instagram at @pbthroughthegrapevine