FM 20-15 Tents and Tent Pitching

Survival, Water, Medical Field Manuals

Military Manuals

United States. War Department

Document text

TENTS AND 
TENT PITCHING 



WAR DEPARTMENT • FEBRU ARY 1945 





FM 20-15 
C 1 



FIELD MANUAL 

TENTS AND TENT PITCHING 

Change 1 DEPAKTMENT OF THE AKMY 

No. 1 j Washington 25, D. C., 23 December 1947 

FM 20-15, 24 February 1945, is changed as follows : 

3. TENT, SHELTER (NEW TYPE) 

******* 

6. Pitching. (Superseded) The tent, shelter, new type is pitched in 
the same manner as the tent, shelter (old type (par. 2&), with the ex- 
ception that after the front corner pins of the tent have been driven, 
the even-numbered man pins down the front of the tent and then drives 
the front guy pin so that it is two and one-half tent-pin lengths from 
the front pin of the triangle. 

******* 

[AG 900.7 (12 Nov 47) ] 

By order or the Secretary or the Army : 



Official: DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER 

EDW'ARD F. WTTSELL Chief of Staff, United States Army 
Major General 
The Adjutant General 



Distribution : 

USAF (5) ; AGF (5) ; OS Maj Comds (2) ; Base Comd (2) ; MDW 
(10) ; USAF Maj Comd (5) ; HD (2) ; Arm & Sv Bd (1) ; Tech 
Sv (2) ; AMA (2) ; FC (1) ; BU (1) ; Gen & Sp Sv Sch (25) ; 
USMA (2) ; ROTC (1) ; Tug Ctr (5) ; A (ZI) (25), (Oversea) 
(10) ; CHQ (10) ; D (2) ; B (1) ; P (1) ; Bn (1) ; C (1) ; AF (2) ; 
W(1);G(1);S(1). 

For explanation of distribution formula, see TM 38-405. 



AGO 1087B — Dec. 750722“ — 17 



0. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1947 




WAR DEPARTMENT FIELD MANUAL 

F M 2 0-15 



: ;; 

TENTS AND 
TENT PITCHING 




WAR DEPARTMENT • FEBRUARY 19U5 



United. States Government Printing Office 
Washington : 19Jh5 






• / 

. . ; WAR DEPARTMENT 
Washington 25, D. C., 24 February 1945 

FM 20—15, Tents and Tent Pitching, is published for the information 
and guidance of all concerned. 

[AG 300.7 (5 Aug 44)] 

By order of the Secretary of War: 

Official: 

J. A. ULIO 

Major General 
The Adjutant General 

Distribution: 

AAF (10); AGF (10); ASF (2); T of Opns (2); Arm & Sv Bd (2); Def 
Cornel (2);TechSv (2); SvC (10); HD (2); PC&S (1); Gen 8c Sp Sv 
Sch (50); USMA (2); ROTC (i);A (10); CHQ (10); D (2) ; B (1); 
R (1); Bn (1); C (1); AF (2); W (1); G (1) ; S (1). 

For explanation of symbols, see FM 21—6. 



G. C. MARSHALL 
Chief of Staff 



If 




FOREWORD 



This manual contains information and instruction in the care and 
handling of all tents being issued to the Army. It is an aid for training 
personnel in the use of tents as well as a handy reference and guide in 
the field. 

Thorough instruction in the care and handling of appropriate tentage 
should be part of all unit training. One of the first jobs of any com- 
manding officer is to learn the types of tents his unit will use and then 
to see that the personnel under his command are trained to use them. 

Complete information as to the tents issued to any unit may be 
found in— 

1. Table of Equipment 2 1— information on the issue of individual 
tentage. 

2. Table of Organization and Equipment— number and type of tents 
issued to particular units. (If the unit has no Table of Organization 
and Equipment, this information can be found in the appropriate Table 
of Basic Allowances.) 

3. Table of Allowances 20— issue of tentage to posts, camps and sta- 
tions. 

4. AR 30—3000, “Price List of Clothing and Equipage” (correct 
nomenclature, stock number, unit and price). 



IT! 




CONTENTS 



Paragraphs Pages 

CHAPTER 1. INDIVIDUAL TENTS. 

Section 7 . Tent, shelter 1_3 1 

77. Tent, mountain, two-man, complete with pins and poles 4-7 6 

777. Hammock, jungle, complete 8-11 9 

CHAPTER 2. WALL TENTS. 

Section 7. Tent, fire-resistant, wall, small, o-d 12—13 15 

77. Tent, fire-resistant, wall, large, o-d 14-15 15 

777. Tent, fire-resistant, storage, o-d 16-17 18 

IV. Pitching and striking wall tents 18-20 19 

CHAPTER 3. GENERAL-PURPOSE TENTS. 22 

Section 7. Tent, fire-resistant, squad, M-1942, o-d. 6-foot 2-inch door 21-25 22 

77, Tent, fire-resistant, pyramidal, M-1934, o-d 26-30 26 

777. Tent, fire-resistant, command post, M-1942, o-d 31-35 29 

IV. Tent, fire-resistant, hospital ward, o-d. 6-foot 2-inch door 36-40 33 

V. Tent, fire-resistant, assembly, o-d, tent only 41—45 37 

VI. Tent, fire-resistant, maintenance, shelter 46-50* 42 

VII. Tent, fire-resistant, surgical truck, o-d 51-55 45 

VIII. Screen, latrine, fire-resistant, o-d 56-60 48 

CHAPTER 4. TENT SITE 61-63 51 

CHAPTER 5. CARE OF TENTAGE 64-69 54 

CHAPTER 6. HEATING TENT 70-74 60 

CHAPTER 7. LINES, TENT 75-77 62 

CHAPTER 8. PINS, TENT 78-79 64 

CHAPTER 9. POLES, TENT 80 66 

CHAPTER 10. MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION 81-85 67 

APPENDIX. GLOSSARY 69 



IV 





CHAPTER 1 



INDIVIDUAL TENTS 



Section I. TENT, SHELTER 

1. PURPOSE. When individual tents, shelter half, are authorized, the 
normal basis of issue per individual is one tent, shelter half, with the 
required number of pins and poles. Thus, two individuals carry and 
occupy one complete tent, shelter. There are two types of shelter half: 
the tent, shelter half (old type) and the tent, shelter half, new type. 
The tent, shelter half, new type is issued when available, but the old 
type will be issued until the supply is exhausted. The only difference 
between the two types is that the new type has a triangular piece at 
both ends which makes it possible to close the tent completely. This 
new type is superior, particularly for use in cold climates and for pro- 
tection against wind and rain. In addition to its use as sleeping quarters. 




Figure 1. Shelter half used as fly. 



the shelter half may also be used as a fly to protect a man while cooking. 
(See fig. i.) A shelter half with the necessary number of pins and poles 
is an individual item of issue. It becomes the responsibility of the 
individual to whom it is issued and it will usually be carried as part 
of the field pack. 



1 





6. Loop. 

7. Buttons. 



Figure 2. Tent, shelter (old type) ( composed of two tents , shelter half (old type) , 

stock No . 7A-T-100.) 

2. TENT, SHELTER (OLD TYPE), a. Characteristics, (i) The back of the 
tent is shaped like an inverted V, and the front is open. 

(2) This tent is made of 33-inch wide, 7.9 ounce cotton duck material 
which has been treated with aluminum acetate, wax, and soap to make 
it highly water repellent. It comes in two sections which button together 
to make it into a two-man tent. 

(3) It has a ridge height of 43 inches. 

(4) Added ventilation may be secured by opening the closed end of 
the tent as desired. 

b. Pitching. (1) General. The purpose of instructing men in formal 
shelter tent pitching is to enable the unit commander to establish his 
unit effectively and rapidly in shelter tents. Except at formal inspec- 
tions, the employment of the best available ground for concealment and 
for the comfort of the men (fig. 3) will have priority over specific align- 
ments and intervals between tents. However, the principles of pitching 




Figure S. Bivouac in the field . 
2 



the tent will always be the same. (See fig. 4.) In the field, it takes one 
man approximately 7 minutes to erect this tent, but it can be done in 
much less time when two men erect the tent. The officer or noncom- 
missioned officer in charge indicates the area for each platoon (or section) 
or the line on which its tents are to be pitched. 

(2) Formal shelter tent pitching, (a) The platoons or sections are 
formed for formal shelter tent pitching as prescribed in FM 22-5. 
When directed by the officer in charge, each odd-numbered man marks 
his position with the outside of his left heel near the instep. The 
locations marked thus indicate the positions of the front tent poles. 
Odd and even numbers (numbers \ and 2, numbers 3 and 4, etc.) pitch 
tents together. 

(b) When the command for pitching tents is given, each man (if 
armed with a rifle) steps off obliquely with the right foot a full pace to 
the right front, and lays his rifle on the ground, muzzle to the front, 
barrel to the left, butt near the toe of his right foot. He then steps 
back into place. All men then unsling equipment and place their packs 
(or rolls) on the ground in front of them, haversacks (saddlebags or 
field canvas packs) up and to the front, the packs two paces in front 
of the men's positions. Each man then opens his pack and removes his 
shelter half, poles, and pins. Each odd-numbered man places a pin in 
the ground on the spot which he previously marked with his left heel. 
Each man of each pair spreads his shelter half on the ground which the 
tent is to occupy, buttons to the center, triangle to the rear, the even- 
numbered man's shelter half being on the left. It will be necessary to 
see that one of the halves is right side out and that the other is inside 
out, otherwise both rows of buttons and buttonholes will not match for 
fastening. The right side of the. tent can be determined by the letters 
“U.S." stamped thereon. 

(c) They then button the halves together. The odd-numbered man 
adjusts his pole through the eyelets in the front of the tent and holds 
the pole upright in position beside the pin. The even-numbered man 
pins down the front corner of the tent in line with the pins. He then 
drives the front guy pin a tent-pole length ahead of the front pole. 
The even-numbered man places the loop of the guy line over the front 




Figure 5 . Formal shelter tent pitching; adjusting the front guy line. 



guy pin, runs the other end of the line through the loops of the shelter 
halves and ties it, making sure that the pole is vertical when the line 
is taut. (See fig. 5.) He then adjusts the rear tent pole through the 
eyelets in the rear of the tent. The odd-numbered man pins down the 
rear of the tent and drives the rear guy pin so that it is two and one- 

4 




half tent-pin lengths from the rear pin of the triangle. He then adjusts 
the guy line. The even-numbered man then drives the remaining pins 
on the left of the shelter tent and the odd-numbered man drives them 
on the right. 

(3) Pitching double shelter tents. (a) This tent may be pitched 
singly, or two tents may be pitched together as a double shelter tent. 
The double-tent camp is preferable to the single-tent camp in cold or 




Figure 6. Formal shelter tent pitching ; ready for inspection. 



inclement weather because of the added shelter it affords. It is useful 
in restricted areas because of its greater concentration of personnel. 
The double tent is composed of two old type shelter tents buttoned 
together at the square ends. The tent is supported by. three poles, 
one in the center and one at each end. Double shelter tents can be 
used only with the old type shelter tent because the shelter tent, new 
type has built-in double ends. 

( b ) On direction of the officer in charge one man marks the position 
of the front pole with the outside of his left heel* near the instep and 
places a pin in the ground at this spot. The four men of each group 
pitching- tents together spread their shelter halves on the ground which 
the tent is to occupy. The men button together the four shelter halves 
of each tent, the ridge first, and then the square ends so that the center 
eyelets of the shelter halves will be in the following order starting at 
the bottom: the lower half of the front tent, the lower half of the 
rear tent, the upper half of the front tent, and the upper half of the 
rear tent. Two men insert and support the front and rear poles, 
respectively, the front pole in the location marked, the rear pole in a 
line with it. The other two men pin the front and rear corners of 
the tent.* One man enters the tent with the pole and assisted by 
another man, inserts the pole through the center eyelets of the shelter 
half. 

(c) Two men drive two guy pins at each end of the tent one tent- 
pole length from the corner pins of the tent and on line with the side 
pins. Then at each end of the tent they adjust the guy lines through 
both loops at once and fasten them. They drive- the remaining pins. 



c. Striking. To strike shelter tents, the men first unbutton sufficient 
buttons to grasp the tent poles and then let them fall either to the 
left or to the right. When the tent is flat on the ground they pull the 
pins, unbutton the shelter halves, and roll their packs. 




3. Doors. 

4. Tent, shelter halt, new type 2 74-T-102 

5. Buttons. 

6. Loop. 

7. Lines, guy, tent, shelter hall: 2 74-L-70 

Figure 7 . Tent, shelter, new type ( composed of two tents, shelter half, new type) . 

3. TENT, SHELTER (NEW TYPE), a. Characteristics. The characteristics 
of this tent are the same as those of the tent, shelter (old type) with 
the following exceptions: 

(1) It has an added V -sect ion on the front end. 

(2) It may be ventilated by opening one end or both ends as desired. 

b. Pitching. The tent, shelter, new type is pitched in the same manner 
as the tent, shelter (old type) (par. 2b) with the following exceptions: 

(1) When spreading the shelter halves preparatory to buttoning 
them together, both halves should be right side out with buttons to 
the center and the even-numbered man's shelter half on the left. 

(2) After the front corner pins of the tent have been driven, the 
even-numbered man pins down the front of the tent. He then drives 
the front guy pin so that’ it is 'two and one-half tent-pin lengths from 
the front pin of the triangle, or the distance from the base of the front 
tent pole to one of the front tent pins. 

c. Striking. See paragraph 2c. 



Section II. TENT, MOUNTAIN, TWO-MAN, COMPLETE WITH 
PINS AND POLES 

4. PURPOSE. The mountain tent is a lightweight, waterproof, two-man 
tent for use in cold climates. (See fig. 8 .) It is reversible and may be 
pitched with either the olive-drab or white side out, depending on 
which will provide the better camouflage. The tent, shelter half, will 
not be issued when the two-man mountain tent is issued. 



6 




Part 



Quantity 



Stock No. 



1. Ventilators 

2. Tunnel (entrance) . 

3. Lines, eave, tent, mountain, two-man ; 4 

4. Line, guy, tent, mountain, two-man (rear) _ 1 

5. Line, guy, tent, mountain, two-man (front) 1 

6. Pins, tent, mountain, two-man (metal) 6 

7. Tie string. 

8. Tabs. 

Poles, tent, mountain, two-man (each pole consists of one 

upper section, one middle section, and one lower section) 4 



74-L-66 

74-L-67-50 

74-L-67-50 

74-P-118 



74-P-224-65 



Figure 8 . Tent, mountain , txuQ-man, complete xoith pins and poles, stock No. 7b—T—90. 



5. CHARACTERISTICS, a. The tent made of cotton cloth, with its com- 
ponent parts, weighs 9 pounds 7 ounces. New tents which weigh 8 
pounds 1 1 ounces are being made of nylon. The stock number for 
both the cotton and nylon tents is the same. 

b. This tent is 541^ inches wide, 82 inches long and 43 inches high. 

c. The floor space of this tent is 30.7 square feet. 

d. This tent has a ridge height of 43 inches and a wall height of 12 
inches (formed by stretching guy ropes on each side). This gives the 
tent a 31 -inch pitch. 

e. The tent has one tunnel door, tubular in shape, 27 inches in diam- 
eter, and 24 inches long. (See fig. 8.) This tunnel entrance may be 
tied up tight either from the inside or the outside by means of the 
tie string. (See fig. 8.) Wind tie string around the tunnel entrance 
as if the entrance were the mouth of a bag and fasten it with a half 
hitch. The entrance may be kept wide open by tying the tabs on the 
edge of the tunnel together. (See fig. 9.) 

f. The floor is sewed into the tent. Special care should be taken not to 
tear the floor with nails of boots. 

g. Ventilators 8 inches in diameter, covered with mosquito netting, are 
at each end of the tent. (See fig. 8.) Ventilation is of the greatest 
importance in the mountain tent because the cloth is absolutely air- 
tight. In good weather the ventilators are kept wide open by hooking 
them up to the guy ropes; in storms, They are left hanging loosfely to 
provide adequate protection as well as ventilation. Only under excep- 
tional circumstances are the ventilators closed with the tapes. This 
should never be done when the cook stove is lighted because of the 
danger of carbon monoxide. In cold weather there is an additional 
reason for leaving them open. Unless the moisture caused by breathing 
and cooking can pass off into the outside air, it forms as frost inside 

7 




on the roof of the tent. In a wind this shakes oh and wets the clothes 
and sleeping bags. 

h. Since the interior of the tent is extremely susceptible to dampness, 
the following individual precautions should be taken: 

,(i) Each man must take great care to brush all the snow oh his 
clothes and boots before entering the tent. Snow in the tent will melt 
and wet sleeping bags and clothes. 




1. Tunnel entrance rolled back. 

2. Ventilator. 

3. Tabs. 



Figure 9* Tunnel entrance and front ventilator. 

(2) One man should enter the tent first and take the sleeping bags, 
packs, and other articles from the other man after the latter has brushed 
them oh completely. 

Note. The new two-man mountain tent has an entrance (like the one described in 
e above) at each end for better ventilation and greater utility. 

6. PITCHING, a. Wind considerations. The tent should be pitched with 
one of the back corners, rather than a side or the front, facing toward 
the wind. If the tent is pitched on snow with the entrance directly 
down wind,* the entrance may become blocked, since snow tends to 
pile up in the lee of any object. 

b. General procedure. One man can erect the tent in approximately 
10 minutes by following these directions: 

(1) Place the side of the tent having the desired color on the outside. 

(2) Divide the tent pole sections into four groups, each group having 
a bottom section with a spiked end, a middle section, and a top section 
with an eye and disk, or a rectangular wire loop. 

(3) Assemble two of the poles in the outside sleeves in the front of 
the tent. (The sleeves are found inside and outside the tent along the 
seams which join the sides to the front and to the back.) Slip the 
spindles on the bottoms of the ixdes through, the loops in the bottom 
corners of the tent. ' 

(a) If the poles have rectangular wire loops at the top, slip one loop 
through the other. Twist the pole a half-turn, to lock them together. 

8 





(b) If the poles have eyes and disks at the top, place the eyes over 
each other. Slip the toggle through both eyes and through the grommet 
at the peak of the tent. Lock the toggle. 

(4) Assemble the rear poles similarly. 

(5) Attach the guy ropes to the webbing loops on the front and rear 
peaks of the tent. 

(6) Stake out the front and rear guy ropes on tent pins. 

(7) Attach side guys to loops on the sides of the tent. 

(8) Stake out the side guy ropes on tent pins. Both ropes may be 
attached to the same pin. 

(9) To anchor the corners, tie ropes to the loops at the corners and 
stake them to the front or back pin. 

c. Special procedure. ( 1 ) In rocky terrain, it may be impossible to 
drive the tent pins into the ground. In that case, attach the guy ropes 
to rocks. 

(2) If the snow on which the tent is pitched is loose and powdery, the 
guy ropes may be attached to ski poles or ice axes, which are driven 
down into the snow after it has been packed; or they may be attached 
to a “dead man” anchor. This is made by burying a tent pin or stick 
horizontally in a hole in the snow and stamping the snow on top of the 
anchor until it is thoroughly packed. 

d. When tent alone is used. It is not always necessary to carry the 
complete unit. Occasionally in wooded terrain the tent alone is used 
in order to achieve maximum mobility and to save weight. In such 
cases, the corners are staked down with any sticks or stones that are 
available; then the front and rear guy ropes are also staked with avail- 
able sticks or rocks. If the ridge of the tent sags, it may be supported 
by the loop which is in the center of the ridge. Skis and ski poles may 
be used in place of tent poles and pins. 

7. STRIKING AND FOLDING. When camp is broken, the mountain tent 
must be handled carefully if it has frozen in place as a result of suc- 
cessive thawing and freezing. Shovels must be used >vith the greatest 
care, since it is easy to rip the tent while digging it out. Ice remaining 
on the tent should be carefully removed before the tent is packed up. 



Section III. HAMMOCK, JUNGLE, COMPLETE 

8. PURPOSE. The jungle hammock has been developed for the use, of 
troops operating in jungle areas where conditions are not desirable for 
bivouac on the ground. (See fig. 10.) It combines the functions of a 
hammock, insect bar, and a waterproof tent fly. It enables men to sleep 
off the ground and thus avoid dampness and vermin. The complete 
jungle hammock weighs only 6 pounds, a minimum weight for sleeping 
equipment. When authorized, the jtmgle hammock is issued in place 
of' the tent, shelter half. It can be pitched as an individual tent when 
the man is forced to sleep in treeless areas. It is insectproof and well- 
ventilated when used as a one-man tent. (See figs. 12 and 13.) When 
a man must remain clothed and ready to fight instantly, he can spread 
his jungle hammock over him as a protection from rain and insects. 

9. CHARACTERISTICS, a. The unit is stitched together. It can be slung 
quickly between trees or other supports. 

9 




b. Two lo-foot lengths of rope are issued with each jungle hammock 
to be tied to the supporting rings. 

c. A false bottom is stitched under the hammock proper to prevent 
insects from biting the sleeper’s back. This false bottom also makes a 
still-air space below the sleeper which acts as an insulator. 




1. Spreader stick. 

2. Grommets. 

3. Foot end. 

4. Snap straps. 

5. Hammock top. 



6. Loops. 

7. Zipper opening. 

8. Hammock rope. 

9. Hammock or bridle ring. 
10. Bowline knot. 



11. Corner tie string. 

12. Bridle. 

13. Sidewall. 

14. Drip string. 

15. False bottom. 



Figure 10 . Hammock, jungle , complete , stock No. 74-H—CO. 



d. Corner tie strings are provided, one at each of the four corners of 
the hammock top to tie in spreader sticks. The corner tabs are bound 
close to the stick. The corner strings should not be used to tie the 
top directly to bushes or vines as damage to the netting and the top 
will result. 

e. The bridle of the jungle hammock has cords of equal length from 





the bridle rings to the grommets. Thus the outer edges of the ham- 
mock proper are raised sufficiently to keep the sleeper from rolling out. 

f. The side walls of the jungle hammock are made of insectproof net- 
ting. The foot end is made of corded cloth to prevent tl\e sleeper’s 
feet from being bitten by insects. 

g. Two snap straps, stitched under the hammock at the foot end, may 
be used to keep equipment, especially a rifle, off the ground and out of 
the rain. (See fig. 11.) 

h. The top of the hammock is made of cotton cloth coated with syn- 
thetic resin or rubber and given a mildew-resistant treatment. 

i. A small pocket inside the hammock is useful to hold medicines and 
other small articles. 

10. RULES TO FOLLOW WHEN USING JUNGLE HAMMOCK, a. Train the 
troops so that they can sling and unsling the hammocks at night in the 
jungle or in steep or swampy wooded areas. 

b. To obtain the best shelter against stormy weather, sling the ham- 
mocks in dense vegetation to break the wind and driving rain. 

c. When opening or closing the zipper, be careful to keep the folds 
of netting and any clothes away from the zipper. 

(1) A vertical and a horizontal zipper opening provide the means 
of getting into and out of the jungle hammock. 

(2) A more recent model of the hammock has a single quick-release 
zipper on one side, between the hammock bed and the netting (fig. 10), 
which makes it possible to get out of the hammock more quickly. To 
prevent insects from getting inside the hammock, bunch the extra full- 
ness of netting on the zipper side and tuck it into the loop sewed on 
the inside edge of the hammock. 

d. To get into the hammock, spread out the body of the hammock by 
hand, and, facing outward, sit with the weight in the center of the 
hammock, not on the edges. Swing legs toward the solid-fabric foot 
end and lie down. 

e. Keep arms, legs, and face away from the insect netting to avoid 
being bitten. 

f. Tie the elastic cords holding up the hammock top to the bridle ring 
or bridle cords only. Never tie the top directly to a supporting tree, 
nor hold it up without elastic support, because this will tear the top 
and the netting. 

g. Cut the string, which is in the small pocket inside the hammock, 
into short pieces approximately 4 inches long. Tie one of these short 
strings to each bridle cord, about 3 inches above the grommets. These 
little tassels of string serve as drip strings and cause the water which 
runs down the bridle cords to drip to the ground, instead of wetting 
the hammock.. 

h. Do not leave hammocks slung in the sunlight when they are not 
being used, because long exposure to tropical sunlight will damage the 
top of the hammock. 

i. When carrying the jungle hammock, roll or fold it up with the water- 
proof hammock top and netting inside , protected by the false bottom 
outside. 

j. Do not tie the hammock out flat like a bed but hang it loosely ivith 
a slight curve. If it is slung tightly, the zippers and bridles will break 
and the netting and seams will rip. 



11 




1 1 . USES OF HAMMOCK. The jungle hammock may be used in three 
ways: as a hammock, a tent, or merely as a rainproof covering. 

a. Slung as a hammock. ( 1 ) Tie the two hammock ropes to two trees 
that are a convenient distance apart. A satisfactory knot to use is the 
clove hitch which may be untied in complete darkness with a single jerk. 

(2) Tie the hammock rope to the bridle ring by means of a bow- 
line knot. 

(3) Tie two locally cut spreader sticks approximately 4 feet 6 inches 
in length rather loosely across the ends X) I the hammock top from the 
fabric loops at the corners of the top. Pass these sticks completely 
under the elastic cords supporting the hammock top in order to spread 
out the top so that rain will not run into the hammock. 

(4) Wrap the corner tie strings around both the spreader sticks and 
corner loops of the hammock top. Always tie the strings with a simple 
bow knot that can be quickly untied. 

(5) If coolness is desired, tie in the spreader sticks above the ham- 
mock bridle strings. If warmth or protection from driving rain is 
required, tie the spreader sticks directly to the hammock bridle strings. 
This will bring the top of the hammock down close over the sleeping 
man, producing a smaller and more easily warmed air space above the 
sleeper’s body. 

b. Pitched as a tent. For use as an individual, insectproof tent, the 
jungle hammock may be pitched in several ways. Remember not to 
tie the top too high or too rigidly. Following are two ways in which 
the hammock may be pitched as a tent: 




Figure 22- Pitched as a tent (first method ) . 



(1) Use the two loops on the sides of the hammock top to lift the 
top and thus form a ridge line crosswise to the length of the hammock. 
Insert a stick of appropriate length in each loop to act as supports. 
The four corners of the hammock top can then be stretched out with 
cords to form an adequate rainproof covering, or, if more protection 

12 






from wind or rain is desired, the lour corners may be pinned down to 
the ground. (See fig. 12.) 



OBLIQUE VIEW 



FRONT VIEW 

Figure IS . Pitched as a tent (second method) . 

(2) Tie the two corner ropes at the head end of the hammock top 
to sticks or plants and stretch out the whole hammock top with a 
downward slope toward the foot end. (See fig. 13.) 

c. Spread as a rainproof covering. In case it is impracticable for the 
individual to sling or pitch his hammock, he can slide the complete 
hammock over him with the top uppermost to protect his body against 
rain and insects. Several thicknesses of netting should be used to cover 
the face. Branches, leaves, or grass should be placed on the ground 
when circumstances .permit, in order to keep the sleeper out of the 
mud and allow air to reach his body. 

13 








Part Quantity 

1. Spindle. 

2. Lines, tent, 2' 6", sewed-2-end, \/ A " dia. (door fastener) 18 

3. Stovepipe openings 2 

4. Lines, tent, 2' 6", sewed— 2-end, i/J" dia. (door wall line). 2 

5. Lines, tent, 8', w/eye, 14 " di&. (eave line) I 10 

6. Lines, tent, foot stop, i/j" dia. (foot stop) 18 

7. Wall lines. 



Stock No. 

24— L-470 

24— L— 470 
24— L— 515 
24— L— 448 



8. Pins, tent, 24" 



10 24- P-59 



Pins, tent, 16" 



18 24-P-49 



Lines, tent, 4' G", sewcd-2-end, \/ A " dia. (lacing line) 4 24-L-490 

Slips, tent, wire 10 24-S-l 070 

Poles, tent, upright. 9' 2 24— P—253 

Poles, tent, ridge, 9', wall, small 1 24— P— 1 14 

Lines, tent, 3' 4", sewed— 1-end, *4" dia. (door Hap line) 2 24-1 479-50 

Fly, fire-resistant, tent, wall, small, o-d 1 24-F— 150 

Pins, tent, 24" 12 24— P—59 

Pole, Lent, ridge, 9' wall, small 1 24— P—114 

Poles, tent, upright, 9' 2 24— P-253 

Lines, tent, 8', w/eye, i/J" dia. (eave line) 10 24-L-515 



* For information on the fly, tent, see paragraph 81. 



Figure 11^. Tent , fire-resistant, wall, small, o-d, stock No. 24-T-323- 



14 



CHAPTER 2 



WALL TENTS 



Section I. TENT, FIRE-RESISTANT, WALL, SMALL, O-D 

12. PURPOSE. The normal use of this tent (fig. 14) is for the shelter of 

officers when in the field and not in combat. It. has a capacity of two 
individuals. When necessary, this tent may also be used as a small 
storage tent. \ 

13. CHARACTERISTICS, a. This tent is 8 feet 10 inches wide, 9 feet 2 
inches long, and 8 feet 6 inches high. 

b. The floor space is approximately 80 square feet. 

c. It is an A-type, square-end tent, rectangular in shape. 

d. The top, side walls, and all reinforcements are made of 12.29-ounce 
duck and the sod cloth is made of 9.85-ounce duck. This tent comes 
in one section. 

e. This tent has a ridge height of 8 feet 6 inches and a wall height of 
3 feet 9 inches. This gives a pitch of 4 feet 9 inches. 

f. It has a slit in each end section which overlaps to form doors. 

g. One tent stove, M-1941, with accessories is used for heating this 
tent. There are two stovepipe openings built into this tent, one at 
each end near the point where the slit forming the door meets the 
ridge line. This permits the stove to be located at either end of 
the tent. 

h. This tent is ventilated by rolling up the side walls, and also by 
opening the slits which form doors at each end of the tent.' When not 
in use, the stovepipe openings may be used as ventilators. 



Section II. TENT, FIRE-RESISTANT, WALL, LARGE, O-D 

14. PURPOSE. Normally this tent (fig. 15) will be used either as an offi- 
cers’ mess or as an office in battalion and higher headquarters when so 
authorized. It may, however, be used for the storage of supplies or 
for the quartering of personnel. When used for quartering personnel, 
its capacity is 8 men without a stove and 6 men with a stove installed. 
It has a normal capacity, when used for mess purposes, of 20 to 22 
men, depending on whether tables 814 or 10 feet long are used. When 
equipped with folding camp tables for office purposes, it has a capacity 
of approximately 12 men. 

15. CHARACTERISTICS, a. This tent is 14 feet 6 inches wide, 15 feet 214 
inches long, and 1 1 feet high. 

b. The floor space is 203 square feet. 

c. It is an A-type, square-end tent, which is rectangular in shape. It 
comes in one section. 

d. The top, side walls, and all reinforcements are made of i?.29-ounce 
duck and the sod cloth is made of 9.85-ounce duck. 

15 






1. 

2 . 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6 . 

7. 

8 . 
9. 

10 . 



Spindle. 



Part 



Quantity Stock No. 



Stovepipe openings 

Lines, tent, 2' 6", sewed— 2— end, 14 " din. (door Listener) 

Wall lines. 

Poles, tent, upright, 4' 9" 

Lines, tent, 9', w/eye, 5/16" dia. (eave line) 

Pins, tent, 24" 

Lines, tent, 2' 6", sewed— 2— end, 14 " dia. (door-wall line) _ 
Lines, tent, 45', sewed-2-end, cut splice in center, 5/16" 

dia. (guy line) 

Lines, tent, foot stop, \/ A " dia. (foot stop) 

Poles, tent, upright, 12', complete, jointed 

Pole, tent, ridge, 14' 2", complete, jointed 

Pins, tent, 16" 

Slips, Lent, wire 

Lines, tent, 3' 4", sewed— 1— encl 14" dia. (extension cloth 

line) 

(door flap line) j. 

Li nes, tent, 6', sewed— 2— end, \/±" dia. (lacing line) 

Fly, fire-resistant, tent, wall, large o-d 

Pins, tent, 24" 

Pole, tent, ridge, 14' 2", complete, jointed 

Poles, tent, upright, 12' 3", complete, jointed 

Lines, tent, 10', w/eye, 14" dia. (eave line) 



2 



22 


24-L-470 


4 


24— P—235 


14 


24— L— 535 


18 


24-P-59 


2 


24— L— 470 


2 


24— L— 590 


26 


24-L— 448 


2 


24-P-266 


1 


24— P-150 


26 


24-P-49 


18 


24— S— 1070 


2} 


24-L— 479-50 


4 


24-L-500 


1 


24— F— 1 40 


14 


24-P-59 


1 


24— P—150 


2 


24— P—266 


14 


24— L— 539 



Figure 15 . Tent, fire-resistant, wall, large, o-d, stock No. 24— T— 322- 



16 






Figure 16 . Pitching the tent fly , 




e. It has ridge height of 1 1 leet and a wail height of 4 feet 6 inches, 
which gives a pitch of 6 feet 6 inches. 

f. Doors are formed by slits in the middle of each end section, which 
are overlapped. These are tied with rope door fasteners. 

g. A fly, measuring 2 1 feet 6 inches by 14 feet 5 inches, is available as a 
separate item of issue when authorized. (See par. 81.) It is very 
simple to pitch and strike (fig. 16) and serves adequately as a field 
kitchen. (See fig. 17.) 

It is often erected against the rear of a kitchen truck. The cooking is 
then done in the truck and the food is served under the fly. 









m 



** >». , 



mmm 



T 









i\H| 



p I 






Figure 17. The tent fly is used as a field kitchen . 



h. One tent stove, M— 1941, with accessories, is used to heat this tent. 

i. There are two ventilator openings, also used as stovepipe openings, 
built into this tent. They are protected by means of canvas flaps. 



Section III. TENT, FIRE-RESISTANT, STORAGE, O-D 

1 6. PURPOSE. The normal purpose of this tent (fig. 18) is for the storage 
of supplies in the field when other shelter is not provided. This tent 
may be used for the quartering of personnel. When used for this 
purpose, it has a capacity of 10 individuals. It is a limited standard 
item of issue and will eventually be replaced by the squad tent. 

17. CHARACTERISTICS, a. This tent is 17 feet io inches wide, 20 feet 5 
inches long, 13 feet high. 

b. The floor space is approximately 358 square feet. 

c. It is an A-type, square-end tent, rectangular in shape. 

d. The top, side walls, and all reinforcements are made of 12.29-ounce 
duck and the sod cloth is made of 9.85-ounce duck. The whole tent is 
fabricated in one piece. The walls are split at all four corners for the 
purpose of lacing. It can be erected with or without a ridge pole. 

18 




1. Spindle. 



Parts 



Quantity Stock No. 



2. Stovepipe openings • 2 

3. Lines, tent, 2' 6", sewed-2-end, 14" dia. (door fastener or 

door wall line) ' 18 

4. Lines, tent, 6', sewed-2-end, 1/" dia. (lacing line) 

5. Wall lines. 

(). Poles, tent, upright, 5' 5" 

7. Lines, tent, foot stop, 14" dja. (foot stop) 

8. Lines, tent, 48', sewed-2-end, cut splice in center, 5/16" 

dia. (guy line) 2 

9. Pins, tent, 24" 24 

10. Lines, tent, 10', w/eyc, 5/16" dia. (cave line) 

Poles, tent, upright, 13' complete, jointed 3 

Pole, tent, ridge, 20' 3i/£", jointed 
Pins, tent, .16" 

Slips, tent, wire 42 

Lines, tent, 3' 4", sewed-l-end, 14" dia. (door flap line) 

(extension cloth line) 2 

*Fly, fire-resistant, tent, storage, o-d 1 

Pins, tent, 24" 

Pole, tent, ridge, 20' 3i/o", complete, jointed 1 

Poles, tent, upright, 13', complete, jointed 
Lines, tent, 11' 6", w/eye, \/ A ” dia. (eave line) 20 

* For information on the fly, tent, see paragraph 81. 

Figure 18. Tent , fire-resistant, storage, o-d, stock No. 2%—T—321. 



18 


24-1 — 470 


6 


24— L— 500 


8 


24— P—240 


36 


24— L— 448 


2 


24-L-605 


24 


24-P-59 


20 


24— L— 540 


3 


24-P-273 


1 


24-P-220 


36 


24-P-49 


42 


24— S— 1070 




24— L— 479-50 


/ 

1 


24— F-I30 


20 


24— P-59 


1 


24— P-220 


3 


24-P-273 


20 


24— L— 550— 25 



e. It has a riclge height of 13 feet and a wall height of 5 feet 2 inches, 
which gives a pitch of 7 feet 10 inches. 

f. This tent has two doors which are formed by a split in the center of 
each end section or wall. 

g. One tent stove, M-1941, with accessories, is used to heat this tent. 
There are two stovepipe openings, one built into each end of the storage 
tent. When they are not in use for this purpose, they may be employed 
as ventilators. 

h. When the stovepipe openings cannot be used to provide ventilation 
because the stove is installed, or do not provide sufficient ventilation, this 
tent is ventilated by rolling up the side walls and opening the ends. 



Section IV. PITCHING AND STRIKING WALL TENTS 

18. PITCHING, a. Preliminary arrangements. The officer or noncom- 
missioned ofhcer in charge selects suitable ground. He indicates the 
direction in which the tent is to face, the line on which the tent is to be 



19 




placed, and the position oi : the door pin. It recjuires approximately 20 
minutes for four men to pitch the large and small wall tents, and 30 
minutes for eight men to erect the storage tent. 

b. Procedure for each tent. (1) Drive a pin to mark the center of the 
door. 

(2) Spread the tent on the ground it is to occupy, placing the door foot 
stops over the door pin. 

(3) Draw the front corners taut, align, and pin down. 

(4) Lace the rear door, if there is one. 

(5) Draw the rear corners taut in both directions and pin down. 

(6) Drive the four eave line pins on each corner in prolongation of 
the diagonals of the tent and about two paces beyond the corner pins. 

(7) Loosen the front door. 

(8) Loosen the two corner foot stops from the corner pins on one side 
only. 

(9) Insert the ridge pole between the ventilation strip and the tent 
ridge. 

(10) Insert the spindle of the upright poles in the ridge pole and in 
the grommets of the tent. 

(1 1) Raise the tent and hold it in position. (See fig. 19.) 




Figure 19 . Pitching the tent, wall , small . 



(12) Replace the two loosened corner foot stops and secure and tighten 
the guy lines to hold the poles vertical. 

03) Dri ve the wall pins through the foot stops as they hang, and 
finally, drive intermediate cave-line pins in alignment with the cave- 
line pins already driven. 

19. STRIKING, a. Remove all pins, except those of the four cave lines 
on the corners and the corner wall pins on the down-wind side, and place 
them in a receptacle. 

b. Have the men unfasten the guy lines and hold them while the tent 
is being lowered. 



20 




c. Lower the tent clown wind. 

d. Remove the poles and remaining corner wall pins. Fasten the poles 
together and collect the remaining pins. 

20. FOLDING, a. Spread the tent flat on the ground, folded at the ridge 
so that the bottoms of the side walls are even, the sod cloth folded under, 
and the ends of the tent forming triangles to the right and left. 

b. Fold in the bottom of the wall approximately one foot. 

c. Fold the triangular ends of the tent in toward the middle to form a 
rectangle. 

d. Fold the top over about 9 inches. 

e. Fold the tent again by carrying the top fold over to the foot, and 
again from the top to the foot. 

f. Throw all the eave and guy lines onto the tent except the second 
eave line from each end. 

g. Fold the ends in so as to cover about two-thirds of the width of the 
second panel. 

h. Double the left fold over the number of times required to bring the 
resulting bundle into position 3 to 5 inches from the right fold. 

i. Place the right fold in position on top completing the bundle. 

j. Tie the bundle with the two exposed eave lines. 



21 




CHAPTER 3 



GENERAL-PURPOSE TENTS 



Section I. TENT, FIRE-RESISTANT, SQUAD, M-1942, O-D, 
6-FOQT 2-INCH DOOR 

21. PURPOSE. This tent (fig. 20) is used principally for the quartering 
of men. It will shelter 16 men when stoves are not installed, or 12 men 
when stoves are installed. It may also be used as a small field hospital, 
or field bakery, for storage, or for any other general purpose. This tent 
is gradually taking the place of pyramidal and storage tents, which have 
become limited standard items and will be issued only until the stock is 
depleted. This present model of the tent is a revision of the old type 
squad tent, M— 1942. For all practical operations, such as pitching and 




Part Quantity Stork No. 

1. Entrance 2 

2. Poles, tent, upright, 6' 2" 4 24— P—242— 1 75 

3. Poles, tent, upright, 4* 9" ± 8 24— P-235 

4. Ventilator 2 

5. Reinforcing band. 

6. Lines, tent, *50', sewed— 2— end, cut; splice in center 5/16" 

dia. (guy line) 2 24— L— 610 

7. All-round eave roping. 

8. Spindle. 

9. Lines, tent, 1 O', w/eye, 5/16" dia. (eave line) 26 24— L— 540 

10. Pole, tent, ridge, 17' complete, jointed 1 24— P—157 

11. D-ring. 

12. Stovepipe outlet 2 

13. Lines, tent, 13' 6", sewed-l-end, 14 " dia. (ventilator flap 

line) 4 24-L-562-50 

14. Wall lines. 

15. Lines, tent, foot stop, 14 " dia. (foot stop) 42 24— L— 448 

16. Lines, tent, 3' 4", served— 1— end. \/ A " (door flap line) 4 24— L— 479— 50 

17. Lines, tent, 14', w/eye, 5/16" dia. (corner line) 12 24— L— 565 

18. Pins, tent, 24" 1 42 24-P-59 

19. Pins, tent, 16" 42 24— P—49 

20. Slips, tent, wire _ 50 24— S— 1070 

Lines, tent, 6', sewed— 2— end, 14 " dia. (lacing line) 4 24— L— 500 

Lines, tent, 2' 6", sewed— 2-end, \/ A " dia. (door fastener) 20 24-L-470 

Poles, tent, upright, 12' 3", complete, jointed 2 24— P-266 



Figure. 20> Tent , fire-resistant, squad, M-1942, o-d, 0-foot 2-inch door. 

22 




striking, the two tents are the same. The new tent has several improve- 
ments, such as the two vertical doors, new ventilators, separate stovepipe 
outlets, and other minor features. 

22. CHARACTERISTICS, a. This tent is 16 feet wide, 32 feet 9 inches 
long, and 12 feet high. 

b. The floor space of this tent is 512 square feet. 

c. It is a hip-roofed, square-end tent, rectangular in shape. 

d. The top, side walls, and all reinforcements are made of 12.29-ounce 
duck, and the sod cloth is made of 9.85-ounce duck. The whole tent is 
fabricated in one piece. The walls are split at all four corners for lacing. 
It can be erected with or without a ridge pole. 

e. It has a ridge height of 12 feet and a wall height of 4 feet 6 inches, 
which gives a pitch of 7 feet 6 inches. 

f. It has two doors (one at each end of the tent) which are 6 feet high 
and 2 feet 6 inches wide. 

g. This tent is ventilated by two openings, one at the top of each end 
section near the ridge line. These openings are protected by means of 
canvas flaps. 

h. There are two stovepipe openings built in the top near the two large 
upright poles of this tent. These stovepipe openings are protected by 
means of canvas flaps. When the stoves are not being used, these open- 
ings may be employed as ventilators. 

! 7 Two tent stoves, M-1941, with accessories, are used to heat this tent. 




Parts Quantity 

1. Tentage (lines and canvas) . 

2. Poles, tent, upright, 12' 3", complete, jointed 2 

3. Pole, tent, ridge, 17', complete, jointed 1 

4. Poles, tent, upright, 6' 2" 4 

5. Poles, tent, upright, 4' 9" 8 

6. Pins, tent, 24" 42 

7. Pins, tent, 16" 42 

Note. For stock numbers, see figure 20. 



Figure 21 • Component parts of tent, fire-resistant, squad, M—19A2, o-d, 6-fvot 2-inch 

door . 

23. PITCHING, a. General. The officer or noncommissioned officer in 
charge designates the line upon which the tent is to be pitched. A short 
pin (No. 1) is then driven into the ground to mark the location (as the 
tent faces the company street) of the right front corner wall of each tent. 
The pins are placed at intervals of 30 feet. This allows a space of about 
2 feet between tents. Each squad usually pitches the tent which it is to 

23 





occupy. Eight men can erect this tent in approximately 45 minutes. (See 
fig. 22 for the placing of the tent pins.) 




b. Procedure. (1) Spread canvas. Unfold and spread the tent on the 
ground in the approximate position it is to occupy. See that corners are 
laced together and the doors tied. 

(2) Place the right front corner foot stop over the pin. 

(3) Insert short corner tent pins . (a) Insert a short tent pin (No. 2 1 

in the left front corner foot stop. Leaving a small amount of slack in the 
left front wall, place this pin on the line established by the right front 
corner wall pins and drive it into the ground. 

24 




(/;) Insert a short tent pin (No. 3) in the right rear corner foot stop. 
Leaving a small amount of slack in the lower right wall, place the pin so 
that the right side of the tent is perpendicular to the line of front corner 
wall pins, and then drive the pin into the ground. 

(c) Insert a short tent pin (No. 4) in the left rear corner foot stop. 
Then place the pin so that the left and rear sides of the tent are perpen- 
dicular, respectively, to the front and right sides of the tent and drive it 
into the ground. 

(4) Drive corner-line pins. Drive into the ground eight temporary 
corner-line pins, A, B, C, D, E, F, G, and H (as shown in fig. 22), two for 
each corner. Drive these pins three long-pin lengths from pins, Nos. 1, 
2, 3, and 4 Leave about two long-pin lengths between A and E, B and F, 
C and G, and D and H (after the tent has been erected these temporary 
corner-line pins must be shifted so that each of the two (for each corner) 
shall be three long-pin lengths from the corner tent pins, 1, 2, 3 and 4 
respectively, and one long-pin length on either side of the prolongation 
of the line extending from the end of the center upright pole to the top 
of the corner upright tent pole). Drive I, J, K, and L, the corner-line 
door pins, on line with A and D and B and C, respectively. 

(5) Drive guy -line pins. Drive pins M, N, O, and P an equal distance 
from and on line with J and A, C and K, L and B, and D and I, respec- 
tively. 

(6) Insert ridge pole. Join together the two sections of the ridge pole 
and insert the pole through one of the ventilating openings of the tent 
with the rounded edge of the ridge pole next to the ridge of the tent. 

(7) Insert upright poles in ridge pole. With the spindle foremost, 
push the two upright poles under the right (left) edge of the tent. Have 
two men crawl under the tent, one at each upright pole, and insert the 
spindle of the upright pole through the hole in the ring of the chain and 
plate assembly. Place the loop of each guy line over the spindle of each 
upright pole. 

(8) Raise tent. Designate six men, one for each end of the two guy 
lines, and one at the ground end of each upright pole, to assist the two 
men under the tent in raising and steadying it. When all is ready, have 
the two men under the tent, assisted by the men at the ground end of 
the upright poles, raise the upright poles at the ridge end, and each man 
holding a guy line assist by pulling on his line. When the four men have 
placed the upright poles in a vertical position, have the four men on the 
guy lines place them over their respective pins, and tighten the lines 
equally, so as to hold the tent in its upright position. Then, have the 
corner lines placed over their pins. 

(9) Drive remaining short pins. Insert the remaining short tent pins 
in their foot stops at the bottom of the wall, and drive them into the 
ground on the lines established by the four corner wall pins. 

(10) Drive remaining long pins . Drive the remaining long pins into 
the ground opposite each eave line. Place the loop of each. tent line in 
the lower notch of the pin. 

(11) Place side-wall upright poles. Place the eight side-wall upright 
poles, -two at each door and one at each corner, in a vertical position 
with the spindle inserted through the grommet. 

(12) Shift temporary corner pins. Shift the temporary corner pins as 
explained in (4) above. Then equally tighten all tent lines. 

(13) Final adjustme?its. Adjust the ventilators and stovepipe openings 
and tie their lines to the appropriate tent lines. 

25 




24. STRIKING, a. Close all openings. Lace the four corner wall open- 
ings. Close the doors and tie together all door fasteners. 

b. Remove pins and side wall upright poles. Remove all pins except 
the left front and left rear corner wall pins and the corner and guy-line 
pins, and pile them in front of the tent. Remove the eight side-wall 
upright poles and pile them at the front of the tent. 

c. Lower tent. With a man at each upright pole and at the guy and 
corner lines on the right side, lower the tent gently to the left. 

d. Remove remainder of pins and poles. Remove the two upright 
poles, the ridge pole, and the guy and corner-line pins and pile them in 
front of the tent. 

25. FOLDING, a. Arrange canvas for folding. Grasp the tent at the 
ridge, pull it to the left until the under side is smooth. Grasp the top 
(right) front corner foot stop and pull it toward the rear of the tent until 
the front side of the tent is smooth; then return the corner to a position 
over the lower (left) front corner foot stop. Do the same with the corner 
of the top (right) rear wall. Make sure the sod cloth is folded under. 
All wrinkles should then be removed from the tent. 

b. Arrange lines on tent. Neatly coil the two guy lines and place them 
on the tent along the ridge so that the distance between the two coils is 
the same as their distance from the ends of the ridge. Lay all exposed 
eave lines on the tent, except the two center eave lines on the under side. 

c. Fold tent lengthwise. Fold in the bottom of the wall approximately 
1 foot. Beginning at the ridge, make a fold one and one-fourth long-pin 
lengths wide and continue folding until the edge of the last fold is even 
with the bottom edge of the wall. 

d. Complete folding. Beginning at the front end of the tent, make a 
fold to the second panel and continue folding toward the center of the 
tent, the edge of the last fold extending about one-fourth panel’s width 
beyond the nearest center panel. Do the same with the rear end of the 
tent, and then place all of the folded rear end on top of the folded front 
end. 

e. Tie bundle. Pull the two tent lines which were left outside toward 
each other, cross them at right angles, and wrap them around the sides of 
the folded tent. Cross the lines again at right angles on the bottom side 
and pull them up over the ends of the tent. Insert the end of one line 
through the loop of the other, pull it tight, and then tie it with a slipknot. 

Section II. TENT, FIRE-RESISTANT, PYRAMIDAL, M-1934, O-D 

26. PURPOSE. The main purpose of this tent (fig. 23) is for the quarter- 
ing of personnel. The maximum capacity of the tent is eight men when 
the tent stove c is not used. However, for reasons of greater comfort and 
sanitation, it is limited to six men when the supply of tentage permits. 
When the tent stove is used, the maximum capacity is six men. Because 
of its distinctive shape, it is easily observed from the air; for this reason 
more than usual care should be taken to camouflage it properly. This 
tent is a limited standard item of issue and will eventually be replaced 
by the squad tent; M-1942. 

27. CHARACTERISTICS, a. This tent is 16 feet wide, 16 feet long, and 1 1 
feet high. 

b. The floor space is 256 square feet. 

26 




Part 



Quantity Stock No. 



1. Spindle. 

2. Hood, tent, khaki, pyramidal, M-1934 ^ 1 24-H-115 

3. Lines, tent, 13' 6", sewed— 1— end, l/J" dia. (hood line) 6 24— L— 562— 50 

4. Lines, tent, 6', sewed— 2— end, 14 " dia. (lacing line) 4 24— L-500 

5. Poles, tent, upright, 4' 9" 4 24— P—235 

6. Lines, tent, 10', w/eye, 5/16" dia. (eave line) 24 24— L-540 

7. Pins, tent, 24" 28 24-P-59 

8. Lines, tent, foot stop, 14 " dia. (foot stop) 28 24-L— 448 

9. Door flap. 

10. Lug. 

11. Lines, tent, 2' 6", sewed— 2— end, \/ A ” dia. (door fastener) 6 24— L— 470 

Lines, tent, 3' 4", sewed— 1-end, l/J" dia. (door fastener) 10 24-L-480 

12. Lines, tent, 3' 4", sewed-1— end, \/ A ” dia. (door flap line) _ 2 24— L-479-50 

Lines, tent, 14', w/eye, 5/16" dia. (corner line) 4 24— L— 565 

Pole, tent, upright, 12' 3", complete, jointed 1 24— P—266 

Pins, tent, 16" 28 24-P-49 

Chain and plate, tent, pyramidal, M-1934, 161,4' x 17' 1 24— C— 573 

, Hooks, tent, end, pyramidal, M-1934, 5/16" 4 24-H— 167 

Hooks, tent, S, pyramidal, M-1934, 5/16" 4 24-H-174 

Slips, tent, wire 28 24 — S — 1 070 



Figure 23- Tent , fire-resistant , pyramidal , M—1934, o-d, stock No. 2A—T—320. 



c. The top, side walls, and all reinforcements are made of 12.29-ounce 
duck and the sod cloth is made of 9.85-ounce duck. This tent comes in 
one section. 

d. It has a peak height of 1 2 feet 3 inches and a wall height of 4 feet 2 
inches. This gives a pitch of 8 feet 1 inch. 

e. It has one door in the wall which is cut back into the roof. This 
door is 28 inches wide, 8 feet high, and is double-lapped. 

f. It. is ventilated by a center pole opening which has an adjustable 
hood or cover. The sides of the tent may be rolled up and the door 
opened when added ventilation is needed. 

g. One tent stove, M— 1941, with accessories, is used to heat this tent. 
When stoves are used in the pyramidal tent, the stovepipe is put through 
the center opening. 

28. PITCHING, a. Preliminary arrangements. The commander desig- 
nates the line on which the tents are to be erected. The line of tents is 
marked by driving a wall pin on th'e spot to be occupied by the right front 
corner of each tent. The interval between adjacent marking pins should 
be 30 feet. This leaves a space of about 2 feet between tents. Each tent 
is usually erected by the squad which will occupy it. It takes four men 
approximately 30 minutes to erect this tent. 

27 




b. Procedure. (1) Spread canvas. Spread the tent on the ground 
which it is to occupy, door to the front. Lace the corners of the tent wall, 
tie the door fasteners, a'nd place the right front corner foot stop over the 
corner pin already driven. 

(2) Drive left front corner wall pin. Carry the left front corner foot 
stop as far to the left as it will go and drive a short pin through it in line 
with the right corner pin already driven. 

(3) Drive rear comer wall pins. Pull the rear corner foot stops to the 
rear and outward, so that the bottom of the rear wall of the tent will 
stretch to complete the square. Then drive the pins through these foot 
stops with each rear corner pin directly to the rear of its corresponding- 
front corner pin, forming the square. Unless the canvas is wet, allow a 
small amount of slack before driving the corner pins. 

(4) Adjust center pole and hood. Have three men crawl under the 
tent and fit the center pole into the plate of the chain and plate assembly. 
Adjust the hood. 

(5) Raise tent. With a man steadying each corner line, have the men 
underneath the tent, raise the tent. 

(6) Adjust comer lines. Place the four corner lines over the lower 
notches of the large pins, which are driven in prolongation of the diag- 
onals at such distances as to hold the walls and ends of the tent vertical 
and smooth when the eave lines are drawn taut. 

(7) Insert side-wall upright poles. Place the four side-wall upright 
poles, one at each corner, in a vertical position with the spindle inserted 
through the grommet in the tent. 

(8) Drive remaining pins and adjust Imes. Drive a small wall pin 
through each remaining foot stop and a large pin for each eave line in 
line with the four corner-line pins already driven. Place the eave lines 
over the lower notches of the large pins and draw all the lines taut. 

29. STRIKING, a. Remove pins. Remove all pins except those of the 
four corner lines and the two rear corner wall pins. Pile them, or place 
them in a container. 

b. Remove the four side-wall upright poles. 

c. Lower tent. With one man holding each corner line, slowly lower 
the tent to the rear. Fasten the poles together and collect the remaining 
pins. 

30. FOLDING, a. Procedure for each tent. (1) Pull canvas smooth. 

Pull the back wall and top canvas out smooth. This is done by leaving 
the rear corner wall pins in the ground with the foot stops attached. One 
man at each corner line and one or two men holding the chain and plate 
assembly perpendicular, pull the canvas to its limit away from the former 
front of the tent. This places the three remaining sides of the tent on 
top of the rear side, with the door side in the middle. 

(2) Straighten right side of tent . To straighten the right side wall and 
top canvas, carry the right front corner over and lay it on the left front 
corner. Pull the canvas smooth and the bottom edges even. Throw the 
eave lines toward the chain and plate’assembly. Return the right front 
corner to the right in order to cover the right rear corner. This folds the 
right side of the tent on itself with a crease in the middle. This fold will 
now be under the front side of the tent. 

(3) Straighten left side of tent. To straighten the left side wall and 

28 




top canvas, carry the left front corner to the right and rear in a similar 
fashion. This will leave the front and rear sides of the tent lying smooth, 
and flat and the two side walls folded inward, each on itself. 

(4) Make sure the sod cloth is folded under all around the tent. 

(5) Fold tent lengthwise. Fold in the bottom of the wall approxi- 
mately 1 foot. Fold the chain and plate assembly downward toward the 
bottom of the tent. Place the hood on the chain and plate assembly. The 
tent is now folded with the chain and plate assembly as a core, all folds 
being placed down flat and smooth and parallel to the bottom of the tent. 
If each fold is compactly made and the canvas is kept smooth, the last 
fold will exactly cover the lower edge of the canvas. 

(6) Arrange lines on tent. Lay all the exposed eave lines, except the 
two on the center panel, along the folded canvas. Pull these two out 
and away from the bottom edge to their extreme length so that they 
may be used later for the final tying of the bundle. 

(7) Complete folding of bundle . Fold the bundle from one end 
toward the center at the first seam (that is, the seam joining the first 
and second panels). Fold the bundle again toward the center so that 
the canvas already folded will come within about 3 inches of the middle 
panel. Fold the bundle once again to the far seam of the middle panel. 
Starting from the opposite end of the bundle, fold the first panel width 
in half. Fold this again. This will bring it about 4 or 5 inches from 
the part of the tent already folded from the first end. Throw this second 
fold completely over the part already folded. 

(8) Tie bundle. Draw the exposed eave lines taut toward and across 
one another so that they are at right angles. Turn the bundle over on 
the eave lines. Cross the lines again bn the new top of the bundle. 
Turn the bundle over again on the crossed lines and tie the lines with 
a slipknot. 

b. Bundle. (1) When properly tied and pressed together the bundle 
will be about 11 by 23 by 34 inches. 

(2) The unit designation, stenciled on the upper half of the middle 
width of canvas in the back wall, will appear on the exposed top of 
the bundle, 



Section III. TENT, FIRE-RESISTANT, COMMAND POST, M-1942 O-D 

31. PURPOSE. This tent (fig. 24) is used in theatres of operation to pro- 
vide office shelter for staff sections of the several command echelons. 
(See fig. 25.) It will eventually take the place of the small wall tent. 
The command post tent is constructed so that it may be completely 
blacked out, and for this reason it may be safely used in the combat 
area without fear of observation. When necessary, this tent may be used 
for the quartering of two officers. 

32. CHARACTERISTICS, a. This tent is 7 feet wide, 11 feet 101/9 inches 
long, and 7 feet high. 

b. The floor space is 84 square feet. 

c. The tent has an entry 26 inches wide which extends along one end 
and partly along one side. 

d. The top, side walls, and all reinforcements are made of 12.29-ounce 
duck and the sod cloth is made of 9.85-ounce duck. This tent comes in 

29 





Paris Quantity 

1. Spindle. 

2. Venilaior, ridge 3 

3. Communication pocket flap. 

4. Sashes, window, lent, command post, M-1942 8 

5. Poles, tent, upright, 6' 2" 6 

6. Poles, tent, upright, 5' 8" 2 

7. Side ventilator duct 4 

8. Pins, tent, 24" 8' 

9. Lines, tent, foot stop, 14 " dia. (foot stop) 23 

10. Entry. 

11. Lines, tent, 14', w/eye, iV' dia. .(eave line) 8 

12. Extension cloth. 

13. Door fastener. 

14. Poles, tent, upright, 7' 2", complete, jointed 2 

Pole, tent, ridge 11' IO 14 ", complete, jointed 1 

Pins, tent, 16" ; : 23 

Slips, tent, wire 8 

Stays, cover, ventilators, tent, command post, style 1 3 

Lines, tent, 7' 6", sewecl-2-end, \/ A ” dia, (lacing line) 4 

Figure 2k- Tent, fire-resistant, command post, M~19£2, o-d, stock No. 



24-S-575 
24 -P-24 2-7 5 
24 -P—241 

24-P-59 

24-L-448 

24-L-565 



24-P-246 
24 — P — 1 35 
24-P-49 
24-S^1070 
24-S-l 263-75 
24-L-513 

84-T -318-33. 








one section, the entry being attached. There is an extension cloth on 
the rear end wall which makes it possible to combine two command 
post tents when a larger tent is desired. 

e. It has a ridge height of 7 feet and a wall height of 6 feet. This gives 
a pitch of 1 foot. This makes an almost flat top with just sufficient 
pitch to shed water. 

f. There are two doors, one at each end of the tent. They are formed 
by slits in the middle of the end sections which are overlapped. 

g. It has four 18-inch square windows made of flexible glass material. 
These windows are attached to the tent by snaps. Each window has 
a flap which, when rolled up, is held in place by means of tie tapes, 
and when rolled down, is held by means of snap fasteners. These flaps 
are necessary for use in a blackout. An extra set of four windows is 
issued with each tent. These are kept in the spare sash pocket located 
on the inside of the front end wall. 

h. There are two circular sleeves, one in each side wall, through which 
messages are dropped into the tent. These are located between the 
two windows on either side. They have canvas flaps which hang down 
and cover the openings. The circular sleeves are inside the tent. The 
sleeves have a zipper opening. (See fig. 26.) 



Figure 26> The communication pocket is used for delivering messages. 

j. This tent is ventilated by three vents on the ridge, and by two large 
vents on each side of the tent at the corners near the ground. 

j. Stoves will be issued for use with this tent, but there are no stovepipe 
openings built into it. When it is necessary to heat the tent, the stove 
pipe may be put through one of the window openings. 

33. PITCHING, a. Preliminary arrangements. The officer or noncom- 
missioned officer in charge selects suitable ground. He indicates the 
direction in which the tent is to face and the exact position of the 

31 





entrance. This tent is pitched by five men in approximately 30 minutes. 
(See fig. 27.) 




Figure 27 • This tent is pitched by five men. 



b. Procedure. (1) Spread canvas . Spread the tent on the ground with 
the inside entrance facing the area or direction which has already been 
designated. 

(2) Drive corner pins . Drive the right front corner pin, square off 
the tent, and drive the other three corner pins. 

(3) Drive eave-line pins on corners. Drive the three eave-line pins 
on each open corner diagonally opposite each other, from right to left. 
Set the fourth (entrance corner) eave-line pin one and one-half upright- 
pole lengths from the corner pin, diagonally across from the opposite 
•corner eave-line pin. 

(4) Adjust ridge ventilators . Set the ventilation strips in all three 
ridge ventilators. 

= (5) Insert ridge pole. Open the rear door flaps and insert the ridge 
pole. 

(6) Adjust upright ridge poles. Place the spindles on the two upright 
poles through the holes in the ridge pole and through the grommets 
in the tent, with the upright poles lying along the right side of the tent. 

(7) Raise tent . Loosen the ’two corner pins and hold the two eave 
lines ofi the side which is still staked and raise the tent. 

(8) Adjust eave lines near the corner of tent. Put the two corner 
foot stops back over the short pins and set and tighten the four eave 
lines near the corners (calling the outside entrance of the door a corner). 

*'(9) Adjust remaining lines and insert remaining upright poles. Set 
the remaining eave-line pins and place the upright poles in position. 
Place and tighten all lines and stake the remaining wall pins. Place the 
window screens in position. 

34. STRIKING, a. Remove pins. Remove all the wall pins except the 
two left corner pins. 

b. Remove eave lines and upright poles. With two men holding the 
upright poles which support the ridge pole, loosen and remove all eave 
lines. Remove the remainder of the upright poles. 

c. Lower tent. With two men holding the ridge pole supports and 
two men holding the eave lines at the right side corners, allow the tent 
to fall to the left toward the two corners which are still pinned down. 

d. Remove metal strips from the ventilators. 

32 




35. FOLDING, a. Straighten canvas. Pull the ridge corners away from 
the pinned down side so that the bottoms of the side walls are even, the 
sod cloth folded under, and the ends of the tent forming a triangle to 
the left and right. 

b. Remove two remaining corner pins. 

c. Fold entrance. Fold the outside entrance across the tent side. 

d. Place the loose-side eave lines on the tent. 

e. Fold the tent lengthwise. Grasp each corner of the ridge and fold 
(he tent lengthwise to a position 1 foot from the bottom of the wall. 
Fold in the bottom of the wall approximately 1 foot. 

f. Place remaining lines on tent. Place all loose eave lines still show- 
ing, except the second from each end, on the tent fold. 

g. Complete folding. Fold each end over almost to the center and 
then fold together, making a neat bundle approximately 15 x 28 x 30 
inches. 

h. Tie bundle. Tie the bundle using the two eave lines which were 
left loose for this purpose. 



Section IV. TENT, FIRE-RESISTANT, HOSPITAL WARD, O-D, 
6-FOOT 2-INCH DOOR 

36. PURPOSE. This tent is used as a section of a field hospital. It is 
standard equipment for clearing companies, surgical hospitals, evacua- 
tion hospitals, convalescent hospitals, and certain veterinary installations. 
Its capacity is 20 canvas cots or 25 litters. It replaces an earlier model 
which will be issued until the present supply is exhausted. For all 
practical purposes the two tents are -the same except that the doors 
are no longer cut back into the tent. This new model has two 6-foot 
2-inch vertical doors. (See fig. 28.) 

37. CHARACTERISTICS, a. This tent is 16 feet wide, 50 feet long, and 
12 feet high. 

b. The floor space is 800 square feet. 

c. It is hip-roofed, has square ends, and is rectangular in shape. 

d. The top, side walls, and all reinforcements are made of 12.29-ounce 
duck and the sod cloth is made of 9.85-ounce duck. 

e. This tent has a ridge height of 1 1 feet and a wall height of 4 feet 
6 inches. This gives a 6-foot 6-inch pitch. 

f. It has two 6-foot 2-inch vertical doors which are located in the center 
of each end section. 

g. A fly, which measures 26 feet 1/2 inch by 53 feet, 1 1 1/ 2 inches is 
available for issue with this tent in theaters of operations. It will not 
be issued in the continental United States except for tents used to house 
patients. 

h. The tent is ventilated through round holes at the top of the center 
poles, through the stovepipe openings when not in use with the stove, 
and through the doors at either end of the tent. 

i. Three tent stoves, M— 1941, with accessories, are provided for use 
with this tent. There are three stovepipe openings built into this tent. 
They are all located on one side of the ridge line and are protected by 
means of canvas flaps. 



33 





Part Quantity Stock No. 

1. Spindle. 

2. Hoods, tent, hospital ward 4 24— H— 63 

3. Lines, tent, 50', sewed-2-ends, cut splice in center dia. 

(guy line) 8 24_L— 6] 0 

4. Lines, tent, 15', sewed- 1 -end, \/ A " dia. (hood line) 12 24-L-575 

5. Lines, tent, 10', w/eye, dia. (eave line) ‘40 24— L-540 

6. Door. 

7. Lines, tent, 2' 6", sewed-2-ends, 14 " dia. (door fastener) 22 24-L— 470 

Lines, tent 3' 4", sewed-2-ends, 14 " dia. (door fastener) 20 24— L— 480 

8. Pins, tent, 24" 68 24-P-59 

9. Lines, tent, foot stop, 1^" dia. (foot stop) 56 24-L-448 

10. Poles, tent, upright, 4' 9" 4 24 -P— 235 

1 1. Wall lines. 

12. End wall. 

13. Sidewall. ? 

14. Poles, tent, upright, 6' 2" 4 24— P-242-75 

Poles, tent, upright 12' 3", complete,, jointed 4 24-P-266 

Pins, tent, 16" 56 24-P-49 

Chains and plates, tent, hospital ward and pyramidal 4 24— C-570 

Hooks, tent, end, hospital and pyramidal, 14 " 16 24-H-165 

Hooks, tent, S, style 1, tent, hospital and pyramidal 16 24-H-172 

Rings, tent, galvanized, hospital ward, 10" 4 24-R-80 

Slips, tent, wire .‘1_* 2 68 24— S— 1 070 

Lines, tent, 3' 4", sewed-l-end, i/J" dia. (door flap line) 4 24— L— 479-50 

Lines, tent, 6', sewed-2-ends, 14 " dia. (lacing line) L_ 4 24— L— 500 

Lines, tent, 14', w/eye, -A" dia. (corner line) 12 24— L— 565 

Fly, fire-resistant, tent, hospital ward, o-d 1 24-F— 110 

Poles, tent, upright, 5' 5" 12 24- P—240 

Poles, tent, upright, 7' 1 4 24- P-245 

Pins, tent, 24" 56 24— P—59 

Lines, tent 10', w/eye, ■&" dia. (eave line) 44 24— L— 540 

Lines, tent, 14', w/eye, dia. (corner line) 12 24— L-565 



Figure 28 . Tent, fire-resistant , hospital xoard, o-d, 0-foot 2-inch door, 
stock No. 2A-T-319-5- 

38. PITCHING, a. Preliminary arrangements. The officer or noncom- 
missioned officer in charge selects suitable ground and designates the 
direction in which the tent will face. He then places a marker for the 
right front corner pin. This tent is pitched by a detail of eight men 
in approximately 90 minutes. 

b. Procedure for each tent. (1) Drive the right front corner pin in at 
the marker. ; , 

(2) Spread canvas . Unroll and spread the tent over the area it is to 
occupy. Place all hoods and ventilator hood lines at the front of the 
tent and pull out the doors of the tent. Have all men go to the side 

34 





o£ the tent, grasp the wall which is on top, and pull it to the left so 
that the inner surface of the tent is on the ground. Then have the 
men drop the wall, walk to the other side, grasp the other side of ‘the 
wall, and pull it into position so that the right front corner wall foot 
stop can be put on the right front corner pin. 

(3) Tie doors . Tie the doors by overlapping the folds and insert a 
short pin through the foot stops on each side of the junction of the 
door. 

(4) Drive left front corner pin. Insert the short pin through the 
left front corner foot stop and pull the front of the tent taut. When the 
officer or noncommissioned officer in charge aligns the tent, move the 
pin in 16 inches toward the right front corner for slack, and drive it in. 

(5) Drive left rear corner pin. Stretch the tent to the left and rear 
to the fullest extent and insert a short pin through the left rear corner 
foot stop. Move the left rear corner foot stop 8 inches toward the 
center of the tent, and drive the pin in. 

(6) Unroll hoods and ventilator hood lines . 

(7) Drive remainder of pins. Secure pins for the sides and ends of 
the tent, long pins for each eave line along the eave-pin line and short 
pins for the others. The position of the corner-line pins is four and 
one-half long-pin lengths from the corner pins and in line with the 
eighth foot stop of the opposite side of the tent. Drive the wall pins 
straight into the ground, one for each foot stop. ‘In driving the eave- 
line pins, drive one in line with each foot stop and on the line of eave- 
line pins which extends between all corner-line pins. 

(8) Adjust guy lines. Place the guy lines, fully slackened and in 
proper order, under the second notch of the guy pins. Make certain 
that the correct line— the one sewed into the canvas and extending to 
the chain and plate assembly— is used as the corner guy line. 

(9) Untie the doors and remove the four corner foot stops from the 
corner xoall pins. 

(10) Insert center poles. Insert the center poles through their respec- 
tive chain and plate assemblies, pulling the butt of the pole through 
the assembly first, and then pushing the spindle back through the hole 
in the center of the plate. Do this while the tent is flat on the ground 
and the poles are in a horizontal position. 

(11) Place the hoods on their poles xoith the openings to the left and 
secure and place the txvo ventilator hood lines over the spindle of the 
pole. 

(12) Raise tent. Have all men go under the tent and raise each pole 
about 4 feet. (The officer or noncommissioned officer in charge checks 
the ventilator hood, and guy lines on each pole before the tent is 
raised.) Raise the tent by elevating the poles to a vertical position, one 
man raising each pole while another man walks forward to a position 
directly under the chain and plate assembly, keeping the bottom of the 
pole on the ground. 

(13) Adjust lines. As soon as the tent is raised, place the corner lines 
over the corner-wall pins and tighten them. Place all foot stops and 
eave lines over appropriate pins without tightening. 

(14) Place the corner xvall poles and door poles in position. 

39. STRIKING, a. Remove all foot stops and pull all wall pins except 
those at the right front and right rear corners. 

35 




Part 



Quantity Stock No. 



1. Ferrule. 

2. Blocks and hoisting line. 

3. Poles, tent, upright, 21' 

4. Rings, tent, galvanized, assembly, with 3 loops. 10" 

(bail ring) . . 

5. Lines, tent, 52'. w/thimble and hook, '//' dia (guy line) 

6. Lines, tent, 18' 6", sewed- 1 -end, 1 / 9 " dia. (cave line) 

7. Stovepipe openings 

8. Door openings 

9. Pins, tent, 36" ^ 

10. Sidewall. 

11. Poles, tent, upright. 8' 3" 

12. ‘Lines, tent, 2 T, sewed -1 -end, 1 /" dia. (lacing line, extension 

cloth) 

13. Extension cloth. 

14. Curtain. 

Blocks and tackle, tenL, assembly 

Chains and hooks, tent, assembly 

Hooks, tent, wall, section assembly 

Lines, tent, 3' 4", sewed- 1 -end, l/J" dia. (wall tic line) 

Lines, tent, 4' 7", sewed -1 -end, dia. (tie line) 

Lines, tent, 6', sewed- 1 -end, *4" dia. (wall tie line) 

Lines, tent, 6', sewed- Lend, 14 " dia. (lacing line, neck center 

section) 

Lines, tent, 12', sewed-2-end, \/ 2 dia. (lacing line, neck end 

section) 

Lines, tent, 6' 2", sewed-l-end, dia. (jumper line) 

Lines, tent, 85', sewed-l-end, 1 / 2 ” dia. (hoisting line) 

Thimbles, tent, malleable iron, galvanized, 1 $/ " ^ 

Thimbles, tent, malleable iron, galvanized, 2i/J" 

Thimbles, tent, malleable iron, galvanized, 3" 



3 


24— P—295 


3 


24— R— 70 


9 


24-L-61 1 


30 


24— L— 580-85 


4 




4 




40 


24— P-65 


30 


24— P—249 


6 


24— L— 582— 50 



3 


19-B- 13035 


3 


24— C— 560 


64 


24-H-180 


36 


24— L— 479— 50 


12 


24-L-4 90-85 


' 4 


24— L-499 


4 


24-L-4 99-25 


2 


24— L— 55 1 —50 


30 


24— L— 503— 50 


3 


24 -L— 620 


52 


24— T-337-25 


24 


24— T— 337— 33 


4 


94 — T— 337-45 



Figure 29 ■ Tent, fire-resistant. f assembly , o-d, lent only, slock No. 21i—T—ol8. 



b. Remove the corner wall poles and door poles and carry them and 
also the short pins to the front of the tent. 

c. Slacken all guy lines fully and untie all ventilator hood lines. 

d. Have all men go into the tent and move the bottoms of the poles 
about 24 inches to the left. 

e. Have one person grasp the inner rope of the ventilator hood line 
ready to pull the hood from the pole when the tent is struck. 

f. Carry the poles to the left, out under the left side of the tent. Carry 
the poles to the front of the tent and pile them. 

g. Drop the hoods. 

h. Remove all of the long pins, disengaging the eave lines from the 
pins. Remove the pins in the same order they were driven (leaving 
just the right front corner wall pin and right rear corner wall pin), and 
bring them to the front of the tent. 

i. Roll up the hoods and ventilator hood lines and bring them to the 
front of the tent. 

40. FOLDING, a. Drag the tent to the right as far as the two remain- 
ing wall pins will permit. This action folds the tent with the inner 
surfaces together. 

b. Pull the remaining corner wall pins out. 

c. Straighten out the door and the walls of the tent and fold the sod 
cloth under. 

d. Have all men walk in toward the center of the tent drawing the 
doors in. 

e. Have all men go to the bottom of the tent and, grasping the walls, 
fold them inward until the inside of the eave seam is exposed. 

f. Have all men now go to the c top of the tent, grasp it, and make two 
18-inch folds, bringing the top of the tent to the edge of the upturned 
wall. 

g. Throw in all guy lines (except the front four), the hood lines, and 
the ventilator hood lines. Distribute them along the tent. 

h. Have the entire detail fold the top folds under the walls. 

i. Force out all the air within the tent by taking short steps down 
the tent. 

j. Fold the tent into a drum-shaped roll starting from the rear. 

k. Using the four loose guy lines, secure the tent roll by crossing the 
lines at right angles about the roll. Tie with a slipknot. 



Section V. TENT, FIRE-RESISTANT, ASSEMBLY, O-D, 

TENT ONLY 

41 . PURPOSE. This tent (fig. 29) is authorized for the use of chaplains 
in the field, but is also used for the showing of movies, for lectures, for 
storage, for truck maintenance, or for any other purposes authorized 
by the commanding officer. It has a seating capacity of approximately 
five hundred. If the tent is used for quartering peronnel it has an 
approximate capacity of eighty. 

42. CHARACTERISTICS, a. This tent is 40 feet wide, 80 feet long, and 
18 feet high. 

b. The floor space is approximately 2,857 square feet. 

37 




c. It is a circus-type tent, with a rectangular-shaped center section and 
rounded ends, which are hip-roofed. The top is made in four sections 
which lace together. There are two rounded end sections and two center 
sections. The side wall, comes in four sections. 

d. The top is made of 12.29-ounce duck and the wall sections and the 
curtains are made of 9.85-ounce duck. This tent does not have a sod 
cloth. 

e. The three main center poles are 21 feet in length and the wall 
height is 8 feet. When the peaks or bail rings are set by means of block 
and tackle, the height . from the ground to the top of the tent ridge 
will be 18 feet, with the additional 3 feet of the main poles sticking up 
above the top to accommodate the block arid tackle. This gives the 
tent a pitch of 10 feet. 

f. This tent has four entrances, each of which is made by the overlap- 
ping of a panel and a half of side wall where two sections of the side wall 
meet. These side walls may be shifted so that the openings may come 
anywhere as long as the same proportionate distance between the open- 
ings is maintained. However, the walls must always be started at a pole 
and end between the poles. 

g. There are four built-in ventilators, one to each piece of side wall. 
The tent may also be ventilated by rolling up the side walls and tying 
them with the attached tie tapes, or if it is raining, by extending the 
side wall and tying it to the . lines running from the eaves. The four 
doors may also be tied. back and the openings used for ventilation. 

h. Four *M— 1941 tent stoves are used to heat this tent. The built-in 
ventilators are used as stovepipe openings when stoves are being used. 




43. PITCHING, ci. Preliminary arrangements. The officer or noncom- 
missioned officer in charge selects suitable ground and designates the 
direction in which the tent will face. He then places a marker for the 
front center guy-line pin. This tent is pitched by a detail of eight men 
in approximately 90 minutes. The pin and pole lay-out (fig. 30) should 
be followed closely in the following procedure. If measuring devices 
are absent, pacing the distance off will be satisfactory. 

b. Procedure for each tent. (1) Drive guy-line pins . Lay out and 
drive the outer line of guy-line pins. There are nine of these, three for 
each main center pole. 

(2) Drive eave-line pins. Lay out the 30 eave-line pins, and be sure 
that when these are driven they are perpendicular and that the top of 
each pin is no more than 10 inches from the ground. 

(3) Spot center pole and prepare for erection. Spot the three main 
center poles and place a marker at each location. Attach all rigging, 
which consists of three main top guy lines and one set of block and 
tackle for each pole. While these poles are still lying on the ground, 
insert the butt of the pole through the bail ring and attach the ring of 
the bail ring assembly to the hook of the single block. Lash this into 
position approximately 1 foot from the ground by using the drift line 
of the tackle. At this point the three main poles will be lying on the 
ground running perpendicular to the eave-line pins on one side of the 
tent area. 

(4) Raise front center pole . (a) Allocate personnel . Place one man 

at the butt of the front center pole, one man at the head of the pole, 
and one man at each of the three guy lines. One of these guy lines 
leads to the outside pin on the direct center line of the long dimension 
of the tent lay-out. This would place the man handling the line directly 
in line with the man at the butt of the pole. 

( 1 b ) Place base of pole in position. Have the man at the head of the 
pole raise it high enough for the man at the butt of the pole to get a 
purchase on it so that by holding it with his foot he may place the pole 
in the position designated by the marker. 

(c) Raise pole to vertical . After the pole reaches such a height that 
it might swing off center, have the other two men holding guy lines 
spread out slowly to keep the pole balanced until it is in a perpendicular 
position. When this is completed, the three guy lines will be located 
at approximately 120° from each other and will extend 6 feet beyond 
the position of the eave-line pins. 

(5) Raise two other center poles. The next main pole in line is 
erected in the same manner as above, with the exception that when thp 
two guy lines in the rear of the pole are set, they should be ,26 feet 




Figure SI. The pins and poles ar& erected. 

39 





j8 inches apart. The third main pole or end pole is erected in the 
same manner as the first described. (See fig. 31.) 

(6) Spread canvas. To spread the canvas, unfold the two parts of the 
center section first and then the two end pieces. Fasten all lanyards, 
both on the end and center section, to the bail rings. This is accom- 
plished by passing the neck lace line around the bail ring and through 
the thimbles, which are attached to the top reinforcing lines of the 
tent. Lash the neck line of the round end section to the neck line of 
the center section and then to the bail ring. 

(7) Lace sections together. Lace together the sections of the tent from 
the ridge to the eave reinforcement line. 

, (8) Lash thimbles together. Lash the two thimbles together by means 

; of the tie line which is spliced through the thimble at the end of the 
eave reinforcing line on the becket side to the thimble on the grommet 
side. This is spliced into the top reinforcement line on the center section. 
! (9) Attach eave lines. After completing the lashings and lacings, 

attach, by means of two half-hitclles, all eave lines to the pins approxi- 
mately 2 feet in from the end of each line. This operation is completed 
30 times, or once at each pin. 

(10) Insert upright poles. Raise the canvas and slide the butt end 
of the 8-foot 3-inch uprights toward the center pole. - Raise the canvas 
and insert the pin of the upright through the leather reinforcement at 
the point where the eave line is attached to the top. This is repeated 
in 30 places. 

(11) Prepare to raise canvas. Raise the peaks of the tent about 3 feet 
off the ground, being sure that the drift line of the tackle assembly is 
inside of the bail ring and next to the center pole. This operation is 
repeated for each main centerpole. Raise the outside of the tent at the 
eave reinforcing lines by drawing the upright poles to a position forming 
an angle of about 6o° with the ground, with the butt of the pole pointing 
toward and in line with the butt of the center pole. Fasten the jumper 
line to the pole by means of two half-hitches. This operation is repeated 
30 times. (After this operation is completed, the tent should present a 
deep-dish or bowl effect.) 

(12) Partially tighten all eave lines. 

(13) Raise peaks. With the man handling the drift line standing 
directly at the foot of each pole, raise the peaks or bail rings by means 
of block and tackle to within 3 feet of the top of each center pole. The 
three peaks of the tent should be raised at the same time. 

(14) Straighten upright poles and tighten lines. Straighten all upright 
poles to a perpendicular position and tighten all eave lines as much as 
possible in order to eliminate wrinkles in the tent roof. (See fig. 32.) 




Figure 32 . The roof is erected. 

40 





(15) Attach side xvalls . Attach the side walls by hooking the wall 
hooks on the top of the side walls through the wall ring chapes which 
are attached to the top. 

44. STRIKING, a. Check guy lines. Check all main pole guy lines, 
being sure they are lashed to the poles and are taut, 

b. Detach all side walls. 

c. Adjust side pole uprights. Slant the butts of the side pole uprights 
toward the butt of the center pole at a 6o° angle with the ground. (If 
the weather is calm, untie the upright jumper rope. Do not untie this 
rope in a high wind.) 

d. Let down peaks. Let the peaks down to ground level and, as 
quickly as possible, take out all side poles. Do not unfasten the eave 
lines from the pins. This will keep the entire canvas area in such a 
position that when sections are unlaced, there will be little difficulty 
in rolling them up. 

e. Untie guy lines. After the guy lines have been untied from the pins, 
toss them on the canvas area, leaving out two lines on each section so 
that they may be used to tie the canvas into compact bundles after 
it has been properly folded and rolled. 

f. Strike center poles. To strike the center pole, place one man at 
the butt of the pole and designate one person to man each of the three 
guy lines. Untie all guy lines. Have two men with guy lines walk 
slowly toward the center of the tent area, keeping lines taut to prevent 
the pole from swaying. The man directly behind the man at the foot 
of die pole walks slowly forward. This brings the pole to a horizontal 
position on the ground. 

g. Remove all side wall upright poles. 

h. Remove all pins after disengaging all lines. 

45. FOLDING, a. Unlace sections. Unlace the sections of the tent and 
separate them for folding into separate bundles. 

b. Fold each section lengthwise. Make a complete fold of each sec- 
tion on its long axis and repeat this step, the folded edge being placed 
even with the two edges of the canvas. After each fold smooth out the 
canvas carefully. 

c. Complete folding. Begin at one end and continue folding toward 
the center of the tent, the edge of the last fold extending about one-fourth 
of a seam’s width beyond the center of the last panel. Do the same 
with the other end of the section and then place all of one folded end 
on top of the other folded end. The sections of the side wall will be 
folded in the same manner as the sections of the top. The sod cloth 
should be folded under and the bottom of the wall folded in approxi- 
mately 1 foot as the first fold. 

d. Tie bundle. Tie each bundle with the two lines which were left 
out for this purpose. Cross the two lines at right angles and wrap them 
around the sides of the folded bundle. Cross them again at right angles 
on the bottom side and pull them up over the ends of the tent. Insert 
the end of one line through the loop of the other, pull it tight, and then 
tie it with a slipknot. 



41 




Section VI. TENT, FIRE-RESISTANT, MAINTENANCE, SHELTER 



46. PURPOSE. The maintenance shelter tent (fig. 33) was designed in 
cooperation with the Ordnance Department to be used in theaters of 
operations for the repair of M-3 tanks. 







Part Quantity Stock No. 

1. Spindle. 

2. Ventilators 2 

3. Lines, tent. 2' 6", sewed-2-end, 14" dia. (door Fastener) 20 24— L-470 

4. Wall lines. 

5. Lines, tent, 11' 6", w/eye, /fc " dia. (eave line) 14 24-L-550-30 

6. Pins, tent, 24" 18 24-P-59 

7. Lines, tent, foot slop, 14" dia. (foot stop) 38 24-L-448 



8. Heater ducts. 

9. Water flaps. 

10. Roof opening. 

11. Upper and lower pull tabs. 

12. Hookless fastener slide. 

13. Roof opening extension flap. 



Pins, tent, 16" 38 24- P-4 9 

Lines, tent, 3' 4"_, sewed-l-end, \/ A " dia. {door flap line) 4 24-L-479-50 

Lines, tent, 4", sewed-l-end, 14 " dia. (water flap line) 2 24-L— 482-75 

Lines, tent, 4' 6", sewed-2-end, 14" dia. (door lacing line) 2 24— L— 470 

Lines, tent, 7' 6", sewed-2-end, 14" dia. (lacing line) 4 24-L-513 

Lines, tent, 14', sewed-l-end, 14" dia. (lower draw line) 2 24-L-564L40 

Lines, tent, 15', sewed-l-end, 14" dia (opening flap lacing 

line) I 24-L— 575 

Lines, tent, 17' 6", sewed-l-end, i/ A ” dia. (lacing line) 2 24-L-580-20 

Lines, tent, 19', sewed-l-end, \/ A ” dia. (lacing line) 2 24-L-581-25 

Lines, tent, 27', unfinished-2-end, 14" dia. (upper draw line) 2 24-L-583-21 

Lines, tent, 64', sewed-2-end, cut splice in center, dia. 

(guy line) 2 24-L-614 

Frame, tent, maintenance shelter 1 24-F-675 



Figure 33 . Tent , fire-resistant, maintenance shelter, stock No. 2A-T-319-15. 

47. CHARACTERISTICS, a. This tent is 18 feet 21/9 inches wide, 26 feet 
21/2 inches long, and 13 feet 7 inches high. 

b. The floor space is 277 square feet. 

c. It is an A-type, square-end tent, rectangular in shape. It is designed 
to be erected over a steel frame which is supplied for this purpose. 

d. The tent comes equipped with a box steel frame weighing approxi- 

42 




mately 500 pounds. (See figs. 34 and 35.) This frame is equipped with 
floating nuts and bolts. 




1. Three truss braces. , ■* 4 

2. Three truss and end post assemblies. 

3. Ridge pole frame assembly. 

4. Four eave strut assemblies. 

Figure 34 . Component parts of frame, tent, maintenance shelter, stock No. 24— F— 675. 







1. Truss braces. 4. Ridge pole frame assembly. 

2. Ridge pole knee braces. 5. Eave strut assembly. 

3. End posts. 6. Side knee brace. 

Figure 3 5. Box steel frame erected. 

e. The top, side walls, and all reinforcements are made of 12.29-ounce 
cluck. The sod cloth, which is 2914 inches wide, is made of 9.85-ounce 
cluck. There are six ground sheets measuring 4 feet by 12 feet, provided 
with each tent to form a floor. These are made of No. 6 duck. 

f. The tent has a ridge height of 13 feet 7 inches and a wall height of 
5 feet 6 inches. This gives a pitch of 8 feet 1 inch. 

g. The tent is equipped with a 9-foot by 10-foot opening on one end 
of the roof. This opening extends from the ridge of the tent to the 
eaves, and can be opened and closed by means of two 10-foot zippers. 
This opening is necessary when removing or installing the vehicles' 

43 




engines. These operations are performed by means of a crane which 
operates from outside the tent. 

h. This tent is heated by a gasoline-burning heater which is set up on 
the outside of the tent. The heat is forced into the tent through a large 
canvas tube attached to the heater ducts provided for this purpose. 

i. The tent is equipped with two canvas ventilators, one at each end of 
the tent near the ridge pole. There are also four heater -ducts to 
accommodate the equipment used with the heating apparatus. Two of 

J these heater ducts are located on the side walls at each rear bottom 
corner of the tent. When these ducts are not infuse, they are covered 
by means of canvas heater-duct flaps. 

48. PITG0JNG. d. Preliminary arrangements. The officer or noncom- 
rni ssiopei ^officer in charge selects suitable ground and indicates the 
direction in which the tent will face. This tent, including j[he steel 
fra m e i “jfi tc h e d by a detail of six men in approximately 75 minutes. 

b. Procedure for each tent. (1) Lay out frame. Lay out various sec- 
tions of the frame in their relative positions ready for erection. 

(2) Erect end sections. Spread the front and rear end sections and 
attach the truss braces. Placing the section in a perpendicular position 
fold under the right and left end posts so that these two pieces, to which 
two side knee braces are connected, lie flat on the ground, giving the 
resulting triangle an A-shaped appearance. 

(3) Attach the ridge-pole frame and ridge-pole knee brace to the 
end. sections. 

(4) Insert the center A-truss assembly . 

(5) Attach the four eave strut assemblies, tioo to each long side. 

(6) Spread canvas over frame. Unfasten the doorways of the tent, 
both front and rear, and spread the top of the tent over the ridge pole, 
being sure that the grommets in the deck at the ridge are centered over 
the spindles on the ridge pole. This will give an A-shaped tent with 
the side walls lying loosely on the ground and the peak of the tent 
approximately 7 feet from the ground. (See fig. 36.)' 




Figure 36 - Pitching the tent ; the tent assumes an “A” shape. 



(7) Lash canvas to frame. Inside the tent make all lashings around 
various sections of the frame structure, using for this purpose the lace 
lines which are held by the canvas lugs sewed to the tent. 

(8) Raise sides of tent. After securely fastening all lace lines, proceed 
to the outside of the tent, all members of the erecting crew going to 
one of the sides of the tent with two men to each end post. Raise this 
side to the full 5-foot 6-inch height of the side wall and secure the side 

44 




knee braces. (See fig. 37.) Duplicate this operation on the opposite 
side of the tent. 




(9) Drive in all pins and secure the eave lines. 

(10) Line up the side wall and secure it with the small-sized pins 
through the side wall foot stops. 

49. STRIKING, a. Unfasten all eave lines and remove all pins including 
side wall foot stop pins. 

b. Loosen side line braces and lower one side so that the side wall is 
lying loosely on the ground. Repeat this operation with the opposite 
wall. This will bring the tent back to the position shown in figure 36. 

c. Untie the lace lines and remove all lashings from around the various 
sections of the frame structure. 

d. Open the front and rear doors of the tent and slide the deck of the 
canvas off the ridge pole. Carry the canvas completely away from the 
frame. 

e. Separate the frame by reversing the procedure used to erect it. (See 
par. 486 (1) through (5).) 

50. FOLDING, a. This tent is folded in the same manner that the wall 
tents (par. 20) are folded. 

b. The steel frame shotdd be Completely broken down into sections 
and assembled for shipment. (See fig. 34.) 



Section VII. TENT, FIRE-RESISTANT, SURGICAL TRUCK, O-D 

51. PURPOSE. This unit (figs. 38 and 39) is designed to fit over the 
body of a surgical truck. The tent is used as an emergency operating 
center in forward combat areas. 

52. GENERAL FACTS, a. This tent is 22 feet wide, 26 feet long, and 
10 feet high. 

b. It has a floor space of 481 square feet. 

c. It is rectangular in shape. 

d. The top, side walls, and all reinforcements are made of 12.29-ounce 
duck and the sod cloth is made of 9.85-ounce duck. 

e. This tent has a ridge height of 10 feet and a wall height of 5 feet 
6 inches. This gives a pitch of 4 feet 6 inches. 

45 





, Part Qi 

1. Tank opening cover. 

2. Hood. 

3. Lines, tent, 20' 6", sewed-l-end, ft* dia. (ridge tie line) 

4. Awnings 

5. Lines, tent, 14', sewed-l-end, i/ } " dia. (awning tie line) 

6. Retaining straps. 

7. Poles, tent, upright, 5' 8" 

8. Curtain, lower front, blackout 

9. Curtain, upper front, blackout 

10. Lines, tent, 11' 6-", w/eye, dia. (cave line) 

1 1. Pins, tent, 24" 

12. Lines, tent, foot stop, dia. (foot stop) 

Curtain, rear blackout. 

Pins, tent, 16" 

Slips, tent, wire 

Lines, tent, 7' 6", sewed-2-end, i/j" dia. (lacing line) 

Lines, rent, 9' ( sewed-l-end, \/ A dia. 

(upper front blackout curtain draw line 

and rear blackout curtain tie line) 

Lines, tent, 10' 6". sewed-l-end, i/ t " dia. (front blackout flap 
tie line) ' ' 

Figure 38. Tent , fire-resistant, surgical truck ; o-d, stock No. 2/+-T-321-£(). 



lantity 


Stock No. 


2 


24— L— 581— 45 


2 




4 


2-1-L-56-M0 


10 


24— P—24 1 


12 


24— L— 550— 30 


12 


24— P—59 


22 


24— L— 448 


22 


24-P-49 


12 


24-S-1070 


4 


24— L— 513 


:} 


24— L— 529 


1 


24— L— 543-45 




Figure 39 . Side view of the tent , fire-resistant , surgical truck , o-d. 



f. The truck supports the top of the tent in place of a ridge pole. The 
outside edges of the tent are held in position by upright poles, eave 
lines, and pins. The center front section of the tent is attached bv 
means of webbed straps to metal buckles on the front end of the truck 
top. For extra security two guy lines are run from the ridge and tied 
to metal hooks on the outside of each headlamp. 

g. It has one door which is 5 feet 714 inches high and 4 feet 8 inches 
wide. This is located in the center of the rear (end opposite front of 
truck) of the tent. 



46 



h. The tent comes equipped with three blackout curtains: one rear, 
one upper front, and one lower front. The two front curtains are so 
located that they fill in the spaces between the bottom of the body of 
the truck and the ground, and the other covers the back window of 
the cab of the truck. When all three curtains are attached, the tent 
may operate under perfect blackout conditions. 

i. There are two ventilator openings built into the tent. These are 
located at the front of the tent, one on either side of the truck in the 
corner at the ridge line. These are covered by canvas awnings which 
are kept open by two lines each, one line attached to a headlamp and 
the other to the front tent pin. (See fig. 38.) 

j. It takes four men 30 minutes to erect this tent. 

k. There is no stove issued for heating this tent. A hot water heater 
is part of the surgical truck equipment. All operating is done in the 
body of the truck. The only heat in the tent itself is that which comes 
from the open back doors of the truck. 

53. PITCHING, a. Preliminary arrangements. The officer or noncom- 
missioned officer in charge selects suitable ground and indicates the 
direction in which the tent will face. This tent is pitched by a detail 
of four men in approximately 30 minutes. 

b. Procedure for each tent. (1) Place the boards on the ground for 
the tires of the truck to rest upon. (See fig. 38.) This will prevent the 
truck from settling down into the ground. 

(2) Drive the truck onto the boards which have just been put down 
for that purpose. 

(3) Open up the rear door flap and the front blackout curtains, and 
spread the top of the tent over the top of the truck. 

(4) Attach the front section of the tent to the body of the truck by 
fastening the webbed straps on the tent through the metal buckles 
which are attached to the truck. 

(5) Tie the ridge tie lines to the metal hooks on the outside of each 
headlamp. 

(6) Tie the rear door flap and front blackout curtains in place. 

(7) Drive in all long tent pins and secure all eave lines. 

(8) Place the wall poles in position. , 

(9) Line up the side wall and secure it with the small-sized pins 
through the side^wall foot stops. 

(10) Attach the awning tie lines. 

54. STRIKING, a. Unfasten the awning tie lines, ridge tie lines, and all 
eave lines and remove all pins, including side-wall foot-stop pins. 

b. Remove ail side-wall poles. 

c. Unfasten all parts of the front section of the tent which are directly 
attached to the truck. 

d. Open the rear door flap and the front blackout curtains, and slide 
the deck of the canvas from the top of the truck. Carry the canvas 
completely away from the truck. 

55. FOLDING. This tent is folded in approximately the same manner 
that the wall tents are folded. Minor modifications may be necessary 
because of difference in shape. (See par. 20.) 



47 




Section VIII. SCREEN, LATRINE, FIRE-RESISTANT, O-D 



56. PURPOSE. The latrine screen (fig. 40) is issued to units in the field 
for use as an outdoor latrine. 




Part Quantity Stock No. 

1. Poles, tent, ridge, 9', hinged _T 2 24-P-112 

2. Pole, tent, ridge, 7' 1 24-P-100 

3. Entrance. 

4. Poles, tent, upright, 7' 7 24- P-24 5 

5. Lines, tent, 14', w/eye, T V' dia. (guy line) 7 24-L-565 

6. Pins, tent, 16" 8 24- P-4 9 

Slips, tent, wire 8 24-S-I070 

Lines, tent, 3' 4", sewed-2-end, \/ A ” dia. (door fastener) 15 24-L-480 

Lines, tent, 8', sewed -Lend, Jfr" dia. (tie line) 1 24-L-5 14-40 



Figure j^O. Screen , latrine , fire-resistant , o-d, stock No. 2J^S~760- 

57. CHARACTERISTICS, a. It is 18 feet long, 7 feet high, and 9 feet wide 
at one end and 7 feet wide at the other end. This difference in width 
is for the purpose of forming a 2-foot entrance on one side of the screen. 
The entrance side of the screen consists of a 12-foot section and a g-foot 
section which overlap by approximately 3 feet to give depth to the 
entrance. 

b. This screen is made of 9.26-ounce or 9.68-ounce duck. 

58. PITCHING, a. Preliminary arrangements. The latrine screen is 
pitched by a detail of six men, supervised by a noncommissioned officer, 
in approximately 20 minutes. The noncommissioned officer selects suit- 
able ground, indicates the direction in which the screen is to face, the 
line on which it is to be placed, and the position of the inside corner 
of the entrance. 

b. Procedure for each latrine screen. (1) Drive a tent pin to mark the 
inside corner of the entrance. 

(2) Utifold and place the screen in position. Unfold the latrine screen 
and place the end having both a long and a short tie rope (as differing 
from the end having two short tie ropes) near the entrance pin. 

(3) Tie the short tie rope on the bottom of the screen to this pin. 

(4) Lay the latrine screen on the ground following generally its final 
outline. (See fig. 41.) 

(5) Assemble and raise center section. Assemble a long ridge pole 
and three uprights and raise them to a vertical position near the center 
of the latrine screen. Hold the uprights in position and drive in two 

48 





center guy-line pins two paces from the front center upright (outside 
door frame) and generally in prolongation of the diagonals from the 
right and left rear corners of the latrine screen through the front center 
upright. Drive a third guy-line pin about one. pace from the rear center 
upright (opposite doorway) and on line with the three uprights. Place 
guy lines over these pins and over the upright spindles and tighten. 
Raise the latrine screen on the outside of the inner and rear uprights 
and tie it to the ridge pole with the bottom about 6 inches from the 
ground. 

(6) Assemble and, raise narrow end section . At the narrow end of 
the screen, assemble and hold in position a short ridge pole and two 
uprights. Drive in guy-line pins about two paces from the uprights 
and in prolongation of the diagonals from the inner center and rear 
center uprights. Attach guy lines as before. Raise the latrine screen 
on the outside of the uprights and tie it to the ridge pole so that the 
bottom is about 6 inches from the ground. 

(7) Assemble and raise wide end section . Before assembling the long 
ridge pole and uprights to form the wide end of the latrine screen, loop 
the long tie line from the top of the inside corner of the entrance over 
the ridge pole. Insert the spindles of the two upright poles in the 
outside holes of the end ridge pole and then raise and hold in place 
the uprights. Drive in the two remaining guy-line pins. The four front 
(door side) guy-line pins are not all on the same line. (See fig. 41.) 
Attach and tighten the guy lines on the long end. Raise the latrine 
screen and tie it to the end ridge pole. Tie the outside of the entrance 
to the center ridge pole. 

(8) Adjust and tighten lines . Draw the long tie line from the top 
of the inside corner of the entrance taut. Tie all tie lines on the lower 
edge of the latrine screen to the uprights. Take any slack out of the 
screen by a final tightening of the guy lines and if necessary by a slight 
shifting of the upright poles. 



49 




59. STRIKING. To strike the latrine screen, reverse the procedure for 
pitching the screen. 

(1) Untie all tie lines on the lower edge of the screen from the upright 
poles . 

(2) Untie the outside of the entrance from the center ridge pole. 

(3) Disassemble wide end. At the wide end, untie the latrine screen 
and drop it to the ground. Detach the guy lines at the wide end and 
disassemble the ridge pole and two uprights and place them in a pile 
at one side. 

(4) Disassemble narrow end. Untie the narrow end of the latrine 
screen. Detach the guy lines and place the ridge pole and uprights with 
the poles previously placed to one side. 

(5) Disassemble center section. Follow the same procedure with the 
center ridge pole. Collect the eight tent pins and seven guy lines and 
place them near the ridge poles and uprights. 

60. FOLDING, a. Extend the screen on the ground and smooth it out. 

b. Make first two folds. To make the first fold pull one end over to 
the other. 'Repeat this step, placing the folded edge even with the two 
ends of the screen. (The screen can be better controlled if the first two 
folds are made into the wind.) Be sure to smooth out the canvas after 
each fold. 

c. Continue folding. Fold either the top or bottom edge over one- 
third of the width of the latrine screen. Then fold the other edge com- 
pletely over the first fold. 

d. Place lines on screen. Tut the tie lines and all guy lines, except 
one for tying the bundle, inside the folds at one end of the screen. 

e. Form final bundle. To form the final bundle, make a 2-foot fold 
from each end of the scre.en toward the center. Repeat this step twice 
leaving the two folded sections 2 or 3 inches apart. Place one folded 
section over the other and the bundle is ready to be tied. 

f. Tie bundle. Lay the guy line over the center of the bundle and 
turn the bundle over on the line. Cross the ends of the line over the 
new top of the bundle and again turn the bundle over on the crossed 
lines and tie them. 



50 




CHAPTER 4 



TENT SITE 



61. SELECTION OF SITE. Great care should be exercised in selecting the 
correct tent. site. Battle needs, however, may often necessitate the use 
of poor camp sites. For an illustration of the good tent site see figure 3. 
Important points to remember are listed below: 

a. The tent should be protected from wind and storms. Do not pitch 
the tent in an open field or oil a ridge which offers no protection. (See 
fig. 42-) If the wind is cold and it is necessary to leave one end of the 




Figure The poor tent site. 



tent open, pitch the closed end of the tent into the wind. 

b. Choose high ground, if possible, because it will be drier. 

c. If possible, choose an area having tough grass turf. 

d. In hot weather, a shady area free of underbrush is desirable. 

e. In the woods, avoid a location directly under dead trees or trees 
with large dead branches.. 

f. If the tent is being pitched by a river, lake, or -other body of water, 
place it far enough back so that it is above the high watermark. 

g. In mountainous country, avoid camping in canyons and next to dry 
creek beds. Such places have been known to fill up with rushing torrents 
in a remarkably short time. 

H. Do not camp at the base of a cliff or steep mountainside where there 
may be danger from avalanches and rockfalls. 

i. Choose level ground. The ground the tent is pitched on should be 
level and free from projecting roots of trees and large embedded rocks 
showing above the surface. This applies to an area extending about 
a foot beyond all sides of the walls, where a ditch should be dug to 
carry off water during a rain. When such a spot is not available, a 

51 




place can often be leveled and cleared with very little work. In woods, 
moss and rocks may be used to smooth out the irregularities in the 
ground. It is particularly important to level the ground when pitching 
a tent for sleeping purposes. 

62. PITCHING A TENT IN SNOW. Before selecting a camp site on a snow- 
covered glacier, prod the surface with an ice or ski pole to see whether 
the snow conceals any crevasses. It may be impossible to find an area 
entirely without crevasses but in order to avoid accidents their presence 
should be known. When an adequate site on snow has been found, 
the snow should be packed hard by stamping on it with skis or snow- 
shoes or, better still, the top snow should be shoveled off until firm snow 
is found below. A doorstep dug a foot below the surface of the snow 
makes it easier to, get in and out of the tent, and to brush off snow. 
.It is important to leave some space between the sides of the tent and 
any protective snow wall so that there is room to shovel out the snow 
which might drift in. Such a wall must not be high if snow is likely 
to drift. On any slope a horizontal platform should be formed. The 
snow which is removed may be packed around the outer edge of the 
platform to widen the space for the tent. The prevailing winds should 
be taken into consideration. (See par. 6.) 

63. TRENCHING TENT. a. GENERAL. In case of doubt as to the advisa- 
bility of digging a trench around a tent, a safe rule to follow is, always 
dig the tre?ich. If the tent is set up in very sandy soil which absorbs 
water as fast as it falls, or if it is located on a little mound which slopes 
off in all directions, a trench may not be necessary. When the tent is 
being pitched on heavy soil, clay, or a flat rocky surface, ditches should 
always be dug because the surfaces of these soils hold water and will 
not readily absorb rain. • 

b. Constructing trench, (i) Dig the trench all around the tent. 

(2) Do not dig the ditch in a V-shape but cut straight down, just 
outside the tent pins. Slope the side away from the tent inward toward 
this dam or straight side. (See fig. 43.) 




52 




(3) When digging a ditch cast the dirt away; never pitch it against 
the tent, for it will quickly rot the canvas. 

(4) The ditch seldom needs to be more than 4 or 5 inches deep and 
in the shallowest places not over 3 inches. There should be enough 
slope in the ditch so that the water will flow freely toward the outlet 
and not back up. 

(5) At the lowest point of the area an outlet trench should be dug 
and connected to the ditch which has been dug around the tent to 
carry the water off. (See fig. 44.) 




(6) When there is a possibility that water may flow in from higher 
ground, a ditch should be dug to divert the water before it can reach 
the tent. 



53 




CHAPTER 5 

CARE OF TENTAGE 



64. GENERAL. The duck fabric currently procured for tentage is treated 
in such a tvay as to make it resistant to fire, water, weather, and mildew. 
This treatment thus reduces tire danger of fire from any cause, and the 
danger of mildew, one of the greatest enemies of tent fabric. The 
coloring pigments give a dark olive-drab shade for protective coloration 
and make the material practically lightproof. This treatment adds 40 
to 50 percent more weight to the basic fabric. All components of the 
tent such as rope, thread, and wood are now treated with preservatives. 

^ a. Treatment in field. Despite all the treatments which tentage re- 
ceives before issue, even the best types lose their properties somewhat 
after prolonged weather exposure. The life of older tentage can be 
extended greatly by the use of a suitable re-treating compound, “Com- 
pound, .Coloring, Type 1, Color C Green/’ stock No. 51— C— 1598 or 
“Compound, Re-treating, Water, Weather, and Mildew Resistant (For 
Cotton, Duck and Webbing),” stock No. 51-C-1608. This is a mixture 
of waterproofing waxes, mildew inhibitors, and coloring pigments to 
give the dark olive-drab shade, all carried in a volatile (also inflammable) 
solvent. 

b. Continual care. The life of a well made tent will be in direct pro- 
portion to the care given it. This care must be continual in packing 
for shipment, handling during shipment, unpacking, unfolding, erecting, 
taking down, folding, and storing. The main factors responsible for 
the damage to tentage are weather, fire, mildew, and carelessness. 

65. WEATHER. Wind and rain may cause extensive damage to tentage. 
Inasmuch as they have different effects on tents, personnel will be in- 
structed in precautionary measures'for both. 

a. Rain. Rain causes the canvas and rope on the tent to shrink. 
Normally the lines on the tent are drawn taut to keep the tent erect. 
As soon as the lines become water-soaked they may become tight enough 
to tear the tent apart. Tents have been torn completely in two under 
such circumstances. There are two things that can be done to forestall 
such a mishap: 

(1) Have the lines sufficiently loosened at all times so that when 
they tighten in wet weather they will not become tight enough to tear 
the tent. To compensate for shrinkage, all eave and corner lines should 
have a free swing of approximately 18 inches at the middle of the line. 
This does not give the tent its best appearance, but the tent serves its 
purpose and needs no adjustments, in either wet or dry weather. For 
inspection purposes, tent lines may be tightened. 

(2) Place blocks, to be removed in the event of rain, underneath each 
upright pole. Removing the blocks automatically loosens all tent lines. 

b. Wind. In a strong wind, all lines should be immediately tightened. 
Door flaps should be closed, walls should be secured to foot-stop pins, 
and all corner lacings laced. Guy ropes should be tight. These pre- 
cautions will cause the wind to blow around rather than into tents. 

54 




66. FIRE. a. General. Tentage which has been given the treatment to 
make it fire-resistant will not burst into flame but will’ burn and char 
slowly. The fact that a tent is marked “Fire-resistant” does not signify 
that it will not burn. Precautionary measures are still necessary. Tent 
fires are usually caused either by some individual’s carelessness or by 
failure to use the spark arresters generally issued with tent stoves. Do 
not neglect to use them. Clean the screen-type arrester at regular inter- 
vals. Be sure that the fire in the stove is out before removing the 
arrester. If spark arresters are not available they must be improvised 
from a fine-mesh wire screen or other suitable material. 

b. Fire extinguishers. Use only those extinguishers whose contents 
are not injurious to the fabric of tents. This is important to remember 
because some fire extinguishers contain acids or solvents which will ruin 
tent materials. Tent areas should be provided with fire extinguishers 
which contain only water, or water and a harmless antifreeze. 

67. MILDEW, a. General. More good tents have probably been ruined 
by mildew than by any other single agent. Mildew has been known to 
ruin the best of tents in 3 days. Canvas is at all times inoculated with 
airborne micro-organisms which are ready to cause mildew and rot if 
the proper conditions prevail. The conditions favorable to the develop- 
ment of these micro-organisms are found in tentage which comes in 
constant contact with the soil (lower portions of tent), in tentage 
dragged across muddy or damp soil, and in tentage which has been 
rolled up while wet. Because of their humidity and temperature, jungles 
also favor the development of mildew. Mildew inhibitors are being 
used in the treatment of all tentage at the present time, but they are 
still not completely effective. Experimentation in this field is being 
carried on constantly. 

b. How to prevent mildew. If a tent is given the proper care, mildew 
will not do much damage, except in tropical areas, even when the tentage 
has not been treated. Follow the rules below at all times and damage 
caused by mildew will be negligible: 

(1) Never roll up a tent when wet. Even if it is only damp from clew, 
it will mildew when stacked away. 

(2) Be positive that the following parts of the tent are dry: 

(a) The seams and the edges— the bottom edge particularly— where the 
material is double. 

( b ) The sod cloth. 

c. Do not roll up tent pins and poles with the tent. Keep them 
separate. 

d. If a tent is pitched under trees, inspect the roof frequently to see 
that no harmful effects are resulting from drippings from branches or 
leaves. Keep the tentage clean at all times. The growth of fungi or 
mold is dependent to some degree on the nutrients (these may exist in 
the form of oil, grease, starch, tree drippings, or sizing in the fabric) 
which have accumulated on the surface of the tent. 

e. When a tent is to be stored away, it should be hung off the ground 
in midday sunlight. If necessary, however, it may be dried indoors. 
If tentage is dried inside it should be done at a normal temperature in 
a well-ventilated place high enough to permit the tent to be suspended 
off the floor. A tent dried on the ground or left hanging outdoors until 
sundown might absorb enough dampness to give mildew a start. 

55 




f. In order to prevent the deterioration of tentage by mildew while in 
storage, the following precautionary measures should be taken: 

(1) Tentage should not be dragged along the ground or permitted 
to come in contact with the ground while in storage. It should be 
stacked on dunnage, supported by 2- by 4-inch lumber. 

(a) If the floor is hard -surfaced or wooden, the tentage should be at 
least 4 inches from the floor. 

( b ) If the floor is earthen, the tentage should be at least 8 inches from 
the floor. 

(2) Only lumber that has been thoroughly cured should be used for 
dunnage, since the moisture contained in green lumber will promote 
the growth of mildew. 

(3) Where dampness in the atmosphere is prevalent, dunnage should 
be used between each course to permit circulation of air between the 
blocks. The blocks should be separated and reduced to a minimum 
number of courses to permit passage of air on all four sides. 

(4) Tents stacked near ventilators, which permit the entrance of 
moisture, or near any other opening where moisture in the air will con- 
dense and settle on the tentage, should be packed in bags or wrapped 
in waterproof coverings. 

(5) Teiitage received from the field should not be placed in bags 
until the tents are thoroughly dried and all dirt removed by stiff brushes. 
If any visible signs of mildew are present, the tent should be placed in 
the open air, preferably in the sun. 

(6) When tentage is issued, that which has been in storage the longest 
should be issued first. To prevent the issue of newly stored tentage 
before the older stocks are exhausted, blocks should be marked according 
to the length of time the tentage has been in storage. 

(7) When tentage is stored in open sheds or in tents, it should be 
stacked well away from the sides and ends of the shelter (preferably 
about 20. feet) and items not affected by moisture should be stacked 
between the tentage and the outer edges of the shelter. 

(8) Any tentage found to be infected by mildew will be withdrawn 
from storage, brushed with a stiff brush, allowed to dry thoroughly, and 
issued immediately to installations where driest atmospheric conditions 
prevail. If there is no opportunity for immediate issue, this infected 
tentage should be segregated from the sound tentage to prevent con- 
tamination. Tents which have lost all serviceability should be salvaged 
or if necessary destroyed. 

(9) Depending on the facilities at hand, application of the re-treating 
compound (par. 6a) may be done on tentage which has been erected 
or which has been spread on the ground. Where spray equipment is 
available, its use is recommended provided the spray coat is brushed in 
thoroughly afterwards. The compound contains inflammable solvents 
and all work including the opening of the containers, should be done in 
the open away from all flame. No smoking should be allowed in the 
vicinity. 

(a) Tentage should be dry and brushed clean. 

(b) Compound should be well stirred before using to produce a 
uniform mixture. Clear white gasoline may be used for dilution if 
necessary. 

(c) A moderate application should be made by spray or brush to the 

56 




outside, followed by a good brushing to attain penetration. Particular 
attention should be paid to the treating of seams and of areas where 
water leakage has occurred. 

( d ) The tentage should be thoroughly dried after treatment, allow- 
ing at least 2 hours for good drying conditions and more if necessary. 
The odor of solvents should have completely disappeared before the 
tentage is used, or rolled for storage. 

(e) The solvents contained in the compound may tend to irritate the 
skin somewhat, as gasoline does. Prolonged contact should be avoided. 
The use of long handles on the brushes may prove convenient. 

(10) Camouflage paints do not have the preservative function of the 
re-treating compound. In fact, camouflage paints other than those spe- 
cifically intended for textiles may be harmful, particularly in regard to 
water resistance. When it is necessary to apply camouflage paint, or to 
make hospital markings on tents, use only the oleo resinate paint with 
water base furnished by the Engineer Corps for camouflage purposes. 
The official nomenclature of this paint is “Paint, Camouflage, Oleo 
Resinous, Emulsified, T— 1279.” To use this paint on tentage, mix it 
only with water, never with gasoline or spirit thinners. 

68. CARELESSNESS, a. General. Probably the greatest amount of dam- 
age to tentage is caused by carelessness. Forgetting to loosen the lines 
when it starts raining, not bothering to use spark arresters, adjusting 
ropes carelessly, driving pins in a slipshod manner, dragging tents over 
rough ground— all of these cause the greatest harm to tentage. A few 
precautions are listed below as reminders. 

b. Rules to follow. Follow the procedures for pitching, striking, and 
folding the various tents described in this manual. Do not try to take 
short cuts unless sure that no damage will be done. When tents are 
folded according to directions, the side walls rather than the top of 
the tent will be exposed. This is important in order to protect the top 
of the tent' during handling and in storage. 

(1) Observe reasonable care when pitching and striking the tent, for 
the material might tear on protruding pins, overhanging branches, or 
other objects. 

(2) Never drag the tent along the ground or floor. 

(3) Make sure that all the necessary parts and accessories for each tent 
have been issued and that they are used for their intended purposes. 

(4) Pack tents carefully for shipment. Some tents are issued com- 
plete with bag. In this case, be sure to carry the tent in the bag. When 
no bag is issued, the tent will arrive wrapped in osnaburg or burlap. 
Save this material for rewrapping when the tent has to be moved again. 
Normally a tent should never be transported without a covering of 
some kind. 

(5) Always pack pins and poles separately from the tent itself. 

(6) Inspect the tentage at frequent intervals to make sure that it is 
in serviceable condition. Particular attention should be given to seams, 
bindings, lines, and all places where strain is exerted. Constantly be 
on the lookout for— 

(a) Any evidence of mildew. 

( b ) Any foreign matter which may have collected on the tent. 

(c) Small rips and holes, splitting of seams, grommets which have 
become loose, lines which are beginning to rot, or anything else which 

57 




does not appear to be in a normal condition. If not sure of the serious- 
ness of the condition, never hesitate to call an officer or'noncommissioned 
officer for confirmation of opinion. 

69. REPAIR METHODS, a. General. There are three methods used in 
the repair of tents: 

(1) Cement patching for minor repairs in the field. 

(2) Hand sewing which is done mostly in the field wheji no equip- 
ment such as sewing machines, grommet-setting diesj and other essential 
machinery is available. 

(3) Patching or reconstruction by the use of sewing machines. This 
is done in shops only. 

b. Cement patches.' (1) Materials necessary, (a) Either olive-clrab 
or clear cement to conform to the color of the tent. 

( b ,) Circular patches. 

(c) A roller. 

( d ) Brushes. 

(2) Size of patch. Three sizes of circular patches are used to repair 
tents as follows: 

Maximum size of hole or 

Patch No. Diameter in inches rip in inches 

( Diameter or length ) 

1 3 H/2 

2 43/8 2 % 

3 614 4 y 4 

(3) Use. (a) In selecting the size of the patch to use, a minimum 
overlap of 3 ,^ inch on all sides of the hole or rip should be allowed. 

(fc) Foreign material such as dirt and grease should be completely 
removed from the parts of the tent to be repaired. 

(c) A thin coat of cement is then applied to that portion of the tent 
to be covered by the patch, and to the entire surface of the patch. The 
first coat should be allowed to dry to a tacky state (it will usually take 
about 5 minutes), after which a second coat is applied. While still wet, 
both surfaces are pressed together by means of the roller provided for 
that purpose. 

c. Hand sewing. In repairing a tent by hand, where no machines are 
available, needle and thread are used. These hand-sewn patches when 
properly stitched will outlast a patch put on by machine. A patch 
must be stitched on any hole exceeding 414 inches in diameter. 

(1) Material used, (a) No. 15 sailmaker’s needle. 

(b) No. 5 ply, cotton, twine. 

(c) Beeswax. 

( d ) Sewing palm. 

(e) Duck, cotton, 12.29 ounces per square yard, olive-drab, fire, water, 
and weather resistant, mildew resistant treated. 

(2) Procedure. Cut a piece of duck sufficiently large to overlap the 
hole (at least 1 inch' on all sides plusi/£ inch for turning under the 
ragged edge). Use the sewing palm and a needle with two strands of 
well-waxed cord. Prepare the patch by turning under the four ragged 
edges approximately y? inch and sewing them (to hold the turned edges 
in place). Using a sailmaker’s stitch sew the patch onto the tent. Begin 
at the top right-hand corner. For the first stitch, push the needle down 

58 




through the edge of the patch (and through the tent below) and out 
through the patch at a point \/ A inch diagonally below the point of entry. 
For the second stitch, push the needle through the top of the patch again, 
at a point i/ 2 inch from the original point of entry. Continue in the 
same manner until the patch has been sewed tightly against the tent. 
A patch sewed with this. stitch is water-repellent. 

d. Machine sewing. When the hole or rip is so large that machine 
sewing is necessary, send the tent to the nearest repair shop without delay. 



59 




CHAPTER 6 



HEATING TENT 



70. GENERAL. When using a stove in a tent, every precaution must be 
taken to avoid fires. Spark arresters must be installed and shields placed 
around the stovepipe openings. All personnel should be well trained 
in building and maintaining fires in the stove and should be familiar 
with all the fire regulations. 

71 . STOVEPIPE OPENINGS. In most cases tents have stovepipe openings 
which are built into the tent; these openings have canvas flap covers 
attached. (See fig. 45.) The openings, when not needed for use with 
the stove, may be used for additional ventilation. 




72. STOVE, TENT, M-1941. The tent stove M-1941 can be operated 
with wood or coal, or with an oil burner. It can be changed quickly 
and easily from one type of operation to the other. For information on 
the tent stove, see TM 10-400, “Stoves, Ranges, Ovens, and Cooking 
Outfits.” 



60 



73. HEATING INDIVIDUAL SHELTERS, a. General. Nothing is issued 
by the Army for heating either the shelter tent or two-man mountain tent. 

b. Expedient measures. Since these individual tents are intended 
for sleeping purposes, usually no heating devices are needed. However, 
when men are forced to stay in them for long periods of time or when 
the men are wet and need to dry off, they will have to use one of the 
following expedient measures: 

(1) Build a brush fire over the area on which the tent is to be erected 
and keep it going for an hour or two. Clear the area of all coals and 
sparks and set up the tent. The ground will remain warm for several 
hours and the earth will be dry to sleep on. 

(2) Collect stones which are 5 or 6 inches in diameter and put them 
in a hot fire for 2 or 3 hours before using. Roll or lift them with forked 
sticks into the tent. If a bucket or other metal container is handy, it 
may be used to hold the rocks or it may be placed upside down over 
them. These rocks will continue to give off heat for several hours. If 

• there is not sufficient room to pile hot rocks in the tent safely, dig a hole 
and then bury the rocks even with or slightly below the surface. 

(3) Although the one-burner cooking stoves issued are intended for 
cooking purposes, their heat will also take the chill off the inside of one 
of these small tents. 

(4) Solidified alcohol in cans will heat a small shelter tent comfortably. 

(5) A gasoline lantern is an excellent heater, and even candle lanterns 
will take off the chill. 

74. SHIELDS AND HOODS, a. General description. Shields and hoods 
are made of metal and are used to protect the canvas around stovepipe 
openings. Hoods are used with pyramidal tents and with the old type 
hospital ward tents. All other tents using stoves are furnished with 
either round or elliptical shields. The squad tent and the new type 
hospital ward, tent, in which the stovepipe openings are on a sloping 
surface, use the elliptical shields. All the other tents whose stovepipe 
openings are in the side wall of the tent, use the round shields. 

b. Painting tent shields and hoods. (1) General. Shields and hoods 
are painted for camouflage purposes or for the reduction of glare. Mate- 
rial needed for this painting will be requisitioned from the Ordnance 
Department. An estimate of the amount of material needed to paint 
approximately 100 hoods or 1,500 shields is 1 gallon of paint, class 101, 
and 1 gallon of enamel, class 204, each mixed with 5 percent thinner. 

(2) Instructions for use. The following instructions should be fol- 
lowed when painting tent hoods and shields. 

(a) Take the tent hood from the tent. Paint will remove the water- 
proofing materials from the tent fabric and cause it to leak. 

( b ) Clean the entire surface with naphtha, gasoline, or other suitable 
solvents. 

(c) When dry, apply a coat of material primer, class 101. 

(d) Allow this to dry 12 hours before adding a coat of lusterless olive- 
drab enamel, class 204. 

(e) When recoating, sand all rusted areas and give the old coat a 
general roughing with sandpaper before applying an added cover coat, 
class 204. 



61 




CHAPTER 7 



LINES, TENT 



75. GENERAL. Ropes are very important parts of tents and therefore 
should be inspected carefully. The stability and safety of the tent may 
depend upon the various lines used: guy lines, eave lines, foot stops, door 
fasteners, and others. 

76. RULES TO REMEMBER AND OBSERVE IN CARING FOR ROPES. 

Deterioration in rope is of two kinds— mechanical and chemical. The 
first comes either from surface wear or from internal friction between 
the fibers. The second comes from exposure to weather conditions and 
acids. Adherence to the following rules will help to prolong the life 
of the rope: 

a. Store rope properly. A dry, unheated building, or a room with 
free air circulation is the best place to store rope not in use. Place the 
rope in loose coils off the floor on wooden grating, or hang it on wooden 
pegs. It is best to hang small rope in loose coils and to coil the larger 
sizes loosely on a grating or platform raised from the floor to insure the 
necessary circulation of air. Never store rope in a small, confined space, 
without air circulation. Clean thoroughly before storing. Continuous 
exposure to sunlight is injurious to rope. Improper storage conditions 
frequently cause so called “dry-rot.” 

b. Dry rope properly after wetting. Dry rot (chemical deterioration) 
generally occurs when rope saturated with -water is not thoroughly dried 
in the open air before being put in storage. Rope is dried best when 
it is hung loosely between two trees, or other objects, so that it does not 
come in contact with the ground. 

c. Keep rope dean. If rope is dirty, it should be washed in clean 
water and thoroughly dried. Grit from sand, mud, or other matter, if 
allowed to remain and work into rope, will grind and wear the rope 
fibers. 

d. Protect rope from chemicals. Keep rope away from chemicals or 
their fumes, especially acids or alkalis, because they are injurious to rope 
fibers. Drying oils, 1 such as linseed oil, and paint will also damage rope. 
Keep rope out of reach of animals, for contamination by animal excreta 
will result in loss of rope strength. 

e. Slack off guys. When ropes are used as guy lines or as other sup- 
ports exposed to weather, slack them off to prevent overstrain because 
of shortening from wetting, for all rope will shrink when wet. 

f. Reverse ends. Reverse rope, end for end, periodically, so that all 
sections of the rope will receive equal wear. When rope wear is localized 
in a short section, periodical shortenings will present a new wearing 
surface. 

g. Splice rope. If a rope becomes damaged, cut and splice. A good 
splice is safer than a damaged section. For the methods of splicing, see 
TM 5—225, “Rigging and Engineer Hand Tools.” 

h. Whip ends of rope to prevent unraveling. See TM 5-225, “Rig- 
ging and Engineer Hand Tools.” 



62 



i. Use largest ropes permissible and convenient. The limit of safety 
on an undersized rope and on one made from poor material is quickly 
reached. Therefore the safety and length of life of the larger rope 
more than offsets any difference in the first cost. 

77. KNOTS. The ability to tie a few knots will greatly simplify the work 
involved in erecting and taking down a tent. For information on knots 
see TM 5-225, “Rigging and Engineer Hand Tools.” 



63 




CHAPTER 8 



PINS, TENT 



78. GENERAL. Metal pins are made from a good grade of steel rod or 
wire, and are strong enough to stand the strain of being forced into 
frozen ground or ice by means of force applied through the eye. These 
metal pins are now an item of issue with the two-man mountain tent 
and with other tents for Arctic use. All wooden pins currently issued 
receive a wood preservative treatment. In determining the serviceability 
of pins, look for cracks, splits, distorted ends, and broken or flattened 
points. 




PIN, TENT, SHELTER, WOOD, 9-INCH 




PIN, TENT, METAL (NEW-TYPE) IO*a 16-INCH 




PIN > TENT, MOU NTAIN , TWO-MAN (METAL) 
( OLD -TYPE ) 12-INCH 







/: ^ 






PIN , TENT, 


16-INCH 














PIN, TENT, 


24 -INCH 


Fli. 


l — — 1 - pi 



PIN, TENT, 36-INCH 

Figure J+6. Tent pins . 



79. DRIVING PINS Short tent pins are driven vertically into the ground. 
Long tent pins are driven into the ground at a 6o° angle, with the top 
of the pin leaning toward the tent. All pins are driven with their 
notches away from the tent. (See fig. 47.) Long pins should not be 
driven vertically or away from the tent because of the natural contraction 

64 





of canvas and ropes when exposed to dampness or rain. Such contraction 
causes high tension which may become strong enough to tear canvas or 
break ropes and pins. With the tent properly staked, the pin will pull 
out of the ground and damage will be avoided. An exception to this 
rule is the assembly tent. The long' pins of this tent are driven vertically 
into the ground. (See par. 43b (2).) It is not safe to allow the pins of 




Figure 4 /, Driving tent phis, 



such a large tent to pull out of the ground due to the damage which 
would be caused if the tent collapsed. The danger of tearing canvas or 
breaking pins and lines is avoided by loosening the lines from within 
the tent, thus relieving the tension on the pins. To do this the tent is 
lowered or raised by adjusting the drift lines which are attached to the 
block and tackle assemblies on each main pole. 



65 




CHAPTER 9 



POLES, TENT 



80. GENERAL, a. Each pole is stamped to show the kind of pole it 
represents. Example : ‘‘Upright lower section, for 12 ft. o in. pole.” 

This marking is very important and should be taken note of in all 
cases, in order to make sure that each tent has its proper poles. When 
determining whether poles are serviceable, be sure to look for cracks, 
splits, serviceability of metal joiner, and missing or bent spindles. 

b. Upright poles have a tendency to settle down into soft ground. 
This settling, which loosens the whole tent, may be avoided by placing 
blocks of wood or flat rocks underneath the bases of the poles. 

c. When erecting tent poles, generally sink them from 2 to 4 inches into 
the ground. 




Figure 49. A ridge tent pole. 



66 




CHAPTER 10 



MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION 



81. TENT FLIES. Flies may be used with the following tents: tent, wall, 
large; tent, wall, small; tent, storage; tent, squad, M-1942; and tent, 
hospital ward. Flies are no longer issued for use with the tent, storage; 
tent, wall, small; tent, wall, large; and tent, squad, M— 1942. For infor- 
mation on issue of fly with tent, hospital ward, and fly, tent, wall, large 
as a separate item, see paragraphs 37g and i5g. A fly is an auxiliary 
canvas roof used with a tent to shed rain and to make the tent cooler. 
Most tent flies are set tightly on top of the regular ridge pole. When 
the tent is not to be moved for a while, it is a better plan to use two 
ridge poles to make a space between the fly and the ridge of the tent 
proper for the circulation of air. Flies are usually guyed to the same 
double- notched tent pins to which the guy lines of. the tent proper are 
attached, and are therefore set rather close to the roof of the tent. The 
fly may be erected so that it projects in the form of a porch and sits well 
away from the ridge of the tent. Any fly used with a tent is a good 
wind trap. For this reason a waterproof tent without a fly is often 
preferable. The fly may be erected as a completely separate unit for 
use as a protection for supplies and equipment or as a protection for 
cooking operations. -The fly for the large wall tent is most often em- 
ployed thus in the Army. Therefore it is issued as a separate item to 
most units. (See par. igg.) 

82. SOD CLOTHS. (See fig. 50.) The sod cloth is a strip of canvas about 
8 or 9 inches wide sewed all along the bottom edge of the tent walls, both 
sides and ends. When the tent has been set-up, see that the sod cloth 
lies flat upon the ground inside the tent, and is weighted down with any 
locally available, clean, dry material. Its function is to keep out insects 
and crawling animals, as well as the wind and cold. Banking a tent 




Figure 50 • The sod cloth . 

67 





inside with leaves and earth is a poor substitute for a sod cloth. T.he 
earth and leaves will not stay tight against the tent and the earth will 
rot the canvas. 

83. GROUND CLOTHS, a. Ground cloths are not generally issued for 
use with Army tentage. Because the ground is soon trodden down hard 
so that it is easy to sweep and keep clean, it is more sanitary as a floor 
than ground cloths which get filthy and are very hard to keep clean. 

b. The two-man mountain tent has a built-in cloth floor as part of the 
unit. This is desirable because the tent is used in extremely cold climates 
and the built-in ground cloths keep out cold wind and drifting snow. 
The maintenance shelter tent comes equipped with six ground cloths 
which form a floor. Tanks are repaired in this tent and it is advisable 
to have the ground cloth so that the spare parts and tools can be laid 
down on it rather than on the ground. 

84. TENT FLOORS. Any tent may have a wooden floor, but floors are 
used most frequently with wall and pyramidal tents pitched at semi- 
permanent camps. When flooring is used, it is usually unnecessary to 
dig a ditch around the tent. It is very important that the floor should 
be the exact size of the tent. If it is too large, it will pull the tent out 
of shape. When the floor is fitted snugly, the water runs off instead of 
running in on the flooring. Even materials which have been water- 
proofed will shrink slightly after a hard rain, and the tent will, as a 
result, be a few inches smaller than its specified dimensions. For this 
reason, if the tent is new, it should be wet thoroughly and then dried 
before its exact measurement is taken for the construction of the floor. 

85. VENTILATION. It is extremely important that a tent be properly 
ventilated. When a tent is closed up, it is less permeable to air than a 
house with the windows closed. All Army tents have ventilating facilities 
provided. Some have built-in ventilators of various types. Stovepipe 
openings may be used for additional ventilation when the stove is not 
in use. In hot weather, the doors may be opened, and on most tents the 
side walls may be rolled up, to give a free circulation of air. The com- 
mand post tent has four windows for ventilation purposes. The air 
coming in around the bottom of the tent should never be depended 
upon for ventilation. If the sod cloth is properly weighted down, very 
little air should be allowed to enter. The bottom .edge of a tent is the 
least desirable place from which to get ventilation. It is like trying to 
ventilate a house through the cracks in the floor. 



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APPENDIX 



GLOSSARY 



BAIL RING. That part of an assembly tent through which the lifting 
block and tackle is rigged to the main center poles and to which the 
various sections of canvas are lashed. Bail rings are made of steel and 
come in various sizes depending on the sizes of the tents with which they 
are used. 

BEESWAX. A yellow fatty solid substance (residue after honey is ex- 
tracted from the honeycomb) which becomes pliable when worked. It 
is applied to cord or thread to strengthen, waterproof, and preserve it. 

BIGHT. A loop, or double part, of a tent rope. 

CHAIN AND PLATE ASSEMBLY. An assembled piece of tent hardware 
consisting of a circular metal plate with a hole in the center and four 
equally spaced holes around the edge to which four chains are attached 
by “S” hooks. Either a large end hook, “Old Style,” or a small end hook, 
“New Style,” holds the chains to the triangles. These triangles, in turh, 
are secured to the ventilator square at the top of the tent. This assembly 
fits onto the spindle of a center pole supporting the tent and can be used 
in any type of push-pole tent. 

CHAPE. Any loop of leather or metal. 

CONTLINE. The depression between the strands on the outside of a rope. 

CORNER STRAP (WEBBING). A strap which secures the “D” ring or a 
triangle to the corner of a tent. 

CUT SPLICE. A loop spliced in the center of guy lines to fit over spindle 
of pole which supports the top of a tent. This loop eye is generally 
reinforced with leather. 

DOOR FASTENERS. Short lines made of twisted cotton line or braided 
sash cord. They are used to fasten together the overlapping door flaps 
to close the door, or they may be used to hold the door flap open. 

DOOR FLAP. That part of the tent which forms the covering to the 
entrance. 

EAVE. An extension of the edge of the roof beyond the wall of the tent. 

EAVE LINE. The supporting line that extends from the eave of a tent to 
the pin that is driven into the ground. 

END HOOK (S-SHAPED), M-23, PYRAMIDAL. The link that connects the 
chain and plate assembly to the triangle at the top of the tent. 

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END WALL. Either end of the storage and wall tents extending from 
ridge to ground line. 

EXTENSION CLOTH. A canvas strip added to one end of the roof on an 
assembly, command post, large wall, or storage tent. It is used to prevent 
leakage between units when two or more tents, or sections of the same 
tent, are put together as one. The extension cloth overlaps the tent or 
section of tent next to it. 

EYE. A spliced loop on the ends of corner and eave lines. 

FERRULE. A ring or cap, usually made of metal, put around a pole or 
similar object to strengthen it, or to prevent splitting and wearing. It 
is generally employed on pole tops where the spindle is inserted. It is 
also used to reinforce the heads of heavy tent poles or pins. 

FID. A tapered wooden tool, slightly dished at the center. It is used for 
spreading rope strands when splicing and for rounding out hand-worked 
holes. 

FOOT STOP. A rope loop at the bottom of a side wall. This loop, fitted 
over a pin driven into the ground, secures the side wall. 

GROMMET. A metal eyelet consisting of two parts, grommet barrel and 
washer, clamped securely on each side of the material, forming a ring. 
These are used for attaching tie lines, eave lines, and supporting lines. 
They can be of two styles: sheet grommet, the barrel of which can be 
used either with a plain, flat sheet washer or a toothed washer; and spur 
grommet, made, according to size, of a heavy-gauge metal with a rolled 
rim. These are made with teeth attached. 

GROMMET SETTING DIE. A cylindrical metal base formed to receive a 
grommet, with a similarly formed punch to receive the grommet washer. 
This is a male and female die that clinches the grommet and washer 
together, making them one metal ring secured in canvas or similar 
material. 

GUY LINE. A line used to hold the larger tent poles steady. 

HOOD. A triangular-shaped piece of canvas used to close the ventilator 
openings of hospital ward and pyramidal tents. 

HOSPITAL WARD VENTILATOR RING. A l^-inch galvanized steel ring 
10 inches in diameter, without loops, with chain and plate assembly 
forming bail ring for push pole. 

JUMPER LINE. That part of a tent assembly which is fastened to the top 
and used to lash the top to the upright poles. Its purpose is' to keep the 
canvas .from jumping off the spindle of the upright, especially during 
stormy weather. 

LACING LINE (CORNER). The line used to lace the side walls of a tent 
together at the corners. 



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LANYARD. Any length of rope, regardless of size, hand-whipped on one 
end and reinforced by means of spliced eye and thimble. It is used to 
make various lashings. 

LUG. A piece of canvas which is doubled over with the edges folded 
under, and stitched to the tent to hold ropes or lines. It is usually about 
3 inches by 2 inches in size. Such a piece is often sewed next to the 
doorway of the tent to hold the rope used to secure the door flap when 
it is open. 

OSNABURG. A stout coarse cotton fabric used to wrap up tentage for 
shipment when no tent cover is provided. 

PINS (STAKES). Wooden pegs 16 inches long with one notch, or 24 
inches long with two notches, or 36 inches long with no notches. The 
36-inch pin is used only with the assembly tent. The 16-inch and 24-inch 
pins are approximately 2 inches wide and 1 inch thick. Pins are used 
as anchors for corner, eave, or guy lines or foot stops. 

PUNCH FOR GROMMET INSTALLATION. A hollow tubular-shaped metal 
die, with a sharp edge, used to cut circular holes into which grommets 
can be inserted. 

REINFORCEMENTS. Various shaped patches of canvas, or any piece of 
canvas, regardless of width or length, used to strengthen seams or joinings 
where necessary. 

RIDGE. The peak of the tent roof that extends between the center poles. 

RINGS. These are made of metal, and may be of any size. They are 
usually used to reinforce all points where supporting lines and poles 
pass through the tent. They are hand-worked into the canvas with 
waxed cord or twine. 

ROLLER. A cylindrical p iece of metal attached to a handle. It is so con- 
structed that the cylinder rotates freely. It is used for smoothing out 
patches and forcing excess cement from under the patches. 

ROPE. A rope is composed of a certain number of stands; each strand 
is made up of a number of single threads. Three strands, laid or twisted 
together, form a “hawser-laid” rope, and three such hawsers similarly 
make a “cable-laid” rope or cable. A “shroud-laid” rope usually consists 
of four strands laid around a central strand or core. The prepared fiber 
is twisted or spun to the right to form a yarn; the required number of 
yarns receive a left-hand twist to make a strand; three strands twisted 
to the right make a hawser; and three hawsers twisted to the left form 
a cable. Thus, the twist in each operation is in.a different direction from 
that of the preceding one, and this alteration of direction serves, to some 
extent, to keep the rope in its proper form and to develop greater 
tensile strength. 

a. The following are various types of ropes: 

(1) Cable. Three hawsers twisted together. 

71 




(2) Cord. Several threads twisted together. 

(3) Hawser. A rope of three strands. They are laid up left-handed 
to form a cable. 

(4) Rope. Several strands twisted together. 

(5) Shroud-laid. A rope of four strands. 

(6) Strand. Two or more large yarns twisted together. They are laid 
up right-handed to form a rope. 

(7) String. The same as thread, but a little larger yarns. 

(8) Thread . Two or more small yarns twisted together. 

(9) Yarn. Fibers twisted together. They are laid up left-handed to 
form a strand. 

b. Terms describing operations or conditions of rope: 

(1) Haul. To pull on a rope. 

(2) Laid. Strands twisted together. 

(3) Paid. Painted, tarred, or greased to resist wet. 

(4) Parceled. Wrapped with canvas. 

(5) Seized. Two parts bound together by a yarn, thread, or string. 
(6') Served. Covered by a yarn continuously and tightly wound 

around it. 

(7) Spliced. Joined to another rope or a part of the same rope by 
interweaving of the strands. 

(8) Taut . Drawn tight or strained. 

(9) Whipped. The ends bound to prevent unraveling. On small 
lines such as soft twisted cotton lines or braided sash cloth, whipping is 
usually accomplished with light thread by means of a sewing machine. 
On heavy ropes (sisal or manila), where more permanent fastening is 
necessary, this operation is accomplished by means of a waxed twine, 
sailmaker's needle and palm. 

SAIL NEEDLE. These vary in length from 1^4 inches to 5 inches. A large 
number designates a small-sized needle, and a small number a large- 
sized needle. The needle is composed of three parts: the eye, the shank, 
and the square. These needles are used by hand workers in many 
operations of tentmaking. When hand working holes or hand roping, 
the needles are forced through the canvas by the use of the sailmaker’s 
palm. 

SAILMAKER’S PALM. A tool made of leather. The palm is made of 
hardened pigskin, built up on the under side with enough thicknesses 
of softer leathers to form a pad for the palm of the hand. A leather 
band is attached to the pigskin and shaped around the back of the hand 
and around the thumb. That section of the palm around the thumb 
is called the nozzle. The plate or thimble of the palm is pressed on 
the face of the pigskin and surrounded by a sewed piece of pigskin at 
the main body of the palm surface. It is used when roping large and 
small tents, when reinforcing the seams and edges, when sewing on 
patches in the field, and when working in rings by hand. 

SHEAVE. .A grooved wheel or pulley. 

“S” HOOK. This is the link connecting the chain to the plate in the 
chain and plate assembly. It is made of i/ 4 -inch diameter galvanized 
iron, shaped as an “S,” 1% inches in length. 

72 




SIDE WALL. That part of the tent extending from below the eave to the 
ground on all sides of the tent. It may be either part of or separate 
from the top, depending upon the design of the tent. 

SLIP. A device 4 inches long, made of steel wire inch in diameter, one 
end twisted like a coil spring and the other end looped to form an eye. 
These are used to adjust the eave or guy lines on all tents that have art 
upright pole not longer than 6 feet. 

SOD CLOTH. A canvas strip cut with the warp of the goods and sewed 
into the hem at the bottom of the walls of all tents. It acts as a ground 
flap, helping to keep the tent warm in winter and also preventing rain 
from splashing into the tent. 

TENT TOP. Any part of the tent supported by poles, above the side-wall 
line. 

THIMBLE. A metal insert, generally eggshaped and ranging in size from 
i\/ A inches to 4 inches, which fits into a spliced eye. These are used to 
reinforce the ends of ropes, lanyards, tie lines, etc. 

TRIANGLE. A triangular-shaped piece of metal of y A inch diameter stock 
with a galvanized finish. It has a base 2 inches wide. It is used as a 
connecting link between the ventilator square and the chain and plate 
assembly supporting the tent at the top. It is also used for corner line 
connections. 

TWINE. A string composed of two or more strands, known as folds, which 
are twisted together loosely, one or more parts of which, when covered 
with beeswax and twisted are used for hand-sewing. 

VENTILATOR PLATE. A plate with a center hole and four corner holes for 
the ventilator chains. This is used with the ventilators on pyramidal 
and hospital ward tents. 

WALL LINE. A piece of webbing approximately 29 inches in length sewed 
into the seam of a tent, with half of the line inside and half outside the 
tent. This line is used to tie up the side wall. 



73 




INDEX 



Bail ring 

Chain and plate assemblies 

Extension cloths 

Ferrules 

Fire extinguishers 

Flies 

Grommets 

Ground cloths 

Heating individual shelters 

Hoods 

Knots 

Lines 

Door fasteners 

Eave 

Guy 

Jumper 

Lacing 

Wall 

Patches 

Pins 

Driving 

Poles. 

Ridge 

Upright 

Repair, tent 

Re- treating compound 

Rope 

Shields 

Site, tent 

Sleeves 

Circular 

.Slips 

Sod cloths 

Spark arresters I 

Splices 

Stovepipe openings 

Stove, tent, M-1941 

Tents. 

Assembly 

Command post 

Hammock, jungle 

Hospital ward 

Maintenance, shelter 
Mountain, two-man 

Pyramidal 

Screen, latrine 

Shelter-half 

Squad 

Storage 

Surgical, truck 

Wall, small 

Wall, large 

Thimbles 

Trenches, tent 

Ventilation _ 

Walls. 

End 

Side 

Whipping 




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■jV u. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1945 62878S