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SATURDAY December 6, 2003 - Subscribe - Contact Us Valley&State Backpage O&E Sports Archives Classifieds Faith&Beliefs Obituaries Revels December 2, 2003 Falling in love with pinot noir I stood at the edge of the vineyard and watched as the other vignerons (grape pickers) across the acres of pinot noir vines unload from the battered gray Renault van. I had been hired by Chateau Du Chatelard in the southern district of Burgundy and now found myself "loaned out" to the famous pinot noir vineyards to the north with a strange crew and new boss. I felt alone and lost and began my trek through the vineyard to meet my new crew which was handing out buckets and "cepettes" which are curved bladed knives for cutting grape bunches from the vines. I began in my row of pinot noir by grabbing the bunches with vigor and slicing roughly at the top stem. I then tossed the bunch into the bucket and moved to the other three bunches on the vine. As I was finishing the fourth bunch I looked down and saw a very old set of rubber Michelin knee boots standing by the vine. A stout older man with a kindly smile tapped my shoulder and asked me to stand up. It was Mr. Chagny, the owner of this splendid and historically significant pinot noir vineyard. He was the ninth generation winemaker of this estate. Mr. Chagny held out his hand in greeting then began very softly to educate me on the pinot noir grape. "These," he waved his arm quietly over the vines "are my children. Pinot noir is the reluctant child, Mr. Razzano. It rarely ripens on time, withers from frost, yields its promise in terrific vintages and laughs at you on average vintages. Pinot noir requires the soft touch, the caress. We have been blessed with a very fine vintage." Mr. Chagny bent over a vine with his knife and gently held the bunch in the palm of his hand. He sliced expertly at the top stem. He then placed the bunch softly into the bucket. He moved through two more vines at an astonishing speed but with grace and a gentleness that comes from decades of loving care. I felt crushed and chagrined as he walked away without saying another word. I went along the rest of the morning, keeping my head down and trying my best to do as he wished. It was a quiet evening for me at the long workers dinner table. It was then Mr. Chagny came up to me and sat down at the rough wooden bench. He smiled warmly and patted my back. He poured a little Marc (brandy from Burgundy) in my coffee and continued his earlier conversation with me. "It all begins in the vineyard. It is about cool nights and warm days. It is about treating the pinot noir grape as you would the child who only performs her best when pampered and loved. Unlike other grapes, pinot noir is savored for its nuances, spice and warm fatness on the palate." He waved dissmissivly. "Let the Rhone people have the power and heat. Pinot noir never attacks the palate, never! It caresses the palate and as soon as you think you have found her, she slips away on a robe of silk and perfume only to reappear on a second sip. Then is when she appears in her full glory. Pinot noir is about peripherals, and she gives up her charms in layers and layers of sensations that rob you of your senses. It is then that you understand the meaning of pinot noir, Mr. Razzano and she will then become your mistress for ever." This was in 1971 and I have never forgotten this conversation. In a general sense, pinot noir is always expensive. Look for selected pinot noir from southern Oregon and taste as many as you can from the Willamette Valley. For the holidays look for the great 1999 vintage from Burgundy, France. There are many wonderful offerings around. Remember, a "good" pinot noir will cost you from $20 dollars and up...but well worth the holiday splurge. Have a great holiday season! DailyTidings.com Home Page Valley&State | Backpage | O&E | Sports | Archives | Weather | Classifieds Columnists | Faith&Beliefs | Obituaries | Revels | Subscribe | Contact Us Copyright 2003 Ashland Daily Tidings and Ottaway Newspapers All Rights Reserved Site Search: .:Advertisements:. RESOURCES - Road Cams