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http://www.omniture.com --> Sections Home Page Local News AP News Blogs Archives Business Classifieds Event Calendar Forums Life Opinion Obituaries Photo Gallery Readers Photo Gallery Sports Tempo Weather Road Cams Special Coverage 2006 Britt Festivals --> Shop Our Valley AutoFinder HomeFinder JobFinder Search Our Valley Special Sections Distinctly Northwest Readers' Choice Homelife Magazine Joy Magazine Oregon Golf Info Oregon Wine Info Other Publications Local Links Ashland News eSouthernOregon Newspapers In Education Personals Moving Here Movie Listings TV Listings Volunteer Customer Service Advertise With Us Media Kit Place Classified Ad Contact Us FAQ's Home Delivery Site Map --> Email Story to a Friend December 8, 2006 38 on Central Like the refurbished, historic building it occupies, a new Medford eatery and wine bar infuses downtown with some much-needed style. Christening the place simply after its address — 38 on Central — the owners apparently aim for an austere atmosphere to offset the decadent menu and ample wine list. Authentic brick walls and hardwood flooring reveal the Cuthbert Building's early 1900s origins, contrasting with modern metal chairs and colorful, abstract canvases. Numerous bottles racked behind the polished bar proclaim 38 on Central's serious commitment to wine. Tall tables in the foyer and an upstairs lounging area furnished with sleek couches allow patrons to enjoy a drink and appetizers rather than a full meal. While both areas were full when our party arrived on a recent Saturday, the dining room was deserted. Imagine our surprise when the hostess said we could have the "last" table in the restaurant. But 20 minutes later, the place started filling up with several large parties, betraying 38 on Central's only obvious drawback: The building's two-story ceiling and open floor plan create a cacophony of sound. Not exactly the atmosphere for a quiet, romantic dinner. For a night out with friends, however, the gallery-like space wasn't at all off-putting. Advertisement The menu presented so many tempting choices that we agreed to share all around. I had to pass up my usual favorite — rack of lamb ($32) — in favor of a delicacy more difficult to fish out, sea scallops ($19). My friends decided on wild mushroom pasta ($12) and seared ahi with quinoa ($23). Strangely enough, appetizers weren't all that appealing, considering my inclination toward savory dishes. Selections of ahi poke, scallop and prawn ceviche, panko-fried oysters, a pulled duck quesadilla or cheese plate ranged from $7 to $10. Beyond the Caesar and mixed greens, a few salads, however, seemed very innovative. A bed of baby spinach topped with a panko-fried softshell crab ($11) couldn't be passed up. The salad was nearly faultless with its lemon vinaigrette, slivered almonds, roasted red peppers and dabs of citrus, horseradish crema. The still-warm crab just slightly softened the spinach, rendering even the stems supple enough to enjoy. I couldn't swear the peppers came from a jar, but they were lacking char, which would have added another dimension of flavor. Entrees arrived in short order and artfully adorned with drizzles and reductions. It's too bad the vegetable melange, which seemed slightly overcooked, didn't match the intensity of sauces on otherwise beautiful plates. The scallops were mouth-meltingly tender, but the portion of three almost prohibited sharing. I initially detected too much black pepper for my liking before discovering that a sweet, periwinkle-colored syrup subdued the spice. Under its sear, the six-ounce ahi steak was perfectly rare without any fishy aftertaste. Astringent flavors of ginger, wasabi and cucumber balanced the earthy nuttiness of quinoa. Topped with bits of crispy leeks, the creamy, cheesy pasta wasn't too rich to polish off. We did wonder which wild mushrooms composed the dish since most pieces were so small as to make them unidentifiable. Other entrees of beef rib-eye, New York steak, duck breast and pork loin range from $29 to $22. A half-pound sirloin burger with house-cut fries offers a $10 dining option. Like the salads, desserts surpassed the norm. We immediately agreed on a creme brulee flavored with green tea ($7). Hidden beneath its glassy shell, the custard also incorporated a layer of marionberry jam. The chocolate ganache cake ($8) was indulgent. But its accompaniment of thick raspberry jam seemed a little too much for such a heavy dessert. On a return visit, I planned to try the house-made tiramisu or the phyllo nests with mascarpone and poached pears. 38 on Central is at 38 Central Ave., Medford. The restaurant is open for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays; the bar and lounge are open from 4 to 11 p.m. Call 776-0038. -- Sarah Lemon Would you like to respond to this story? If so Click Here to visit our forums. Advertisement Copyright © 1997-2007 Mail Tribune, Inc. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy | Terms & Conditions | Website Feedback online casinos news Home Security Systems Online Casino Reviews Online poker at AbsolutePoker.com Fundraisers UK Homeowner Loans Casinos Canada Cord Blood Banking Entertainment Guide Texas Electric Choice Compare Electric rates in Texas Windermere Van Vleet Trunks, Footlocker Men's Clothing Debt Help