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Oregon Folklore Studies Reminiscences
REMINISCENCES OF MRS. E. W. WILSON
AN OREGON SCHOOL TEACHER OF 1851
Covering her arrival in the Oregon Country and her early months
of teaching.
Transcribed at The Danes, December 7, 1899 and loaned to the
Federal Writers' Project by her daughter, Mrs. Joseph T. Peters. Complete
copy submitted to the Historical Records Survey. Obtained by Sara B. Wrenn
for the Oregon Folklore Studies.
The trip was quite favorable. Our entrance over the bar was
a prosperous one. We landed at Astoria. Saw Gen. Adair who had first come
there as a collector of customs and his family. Then shifting our belongings
to the newly -built steamer Lot Whitcomb, we made our way up the river. The
impression on my memory is more of homesickness than of the majesty and beauty
of the lordly river. There were but a very few woodsmens' huts on the banks
between Astoria and Vancouver, and the less said of any thoughts or feelings
the better, but the dread of the end of the journey was becoming heavier and
heavier as it approached. I was exceedingly worried about my purse. Neither
Frank or I had a dime, and it was not in me to throw off all anxieties as to
the very near future. A little diversion was very agreeably given at Vancouver,
then occupied by the Rifle Regiment under Col. Loring, afterward of the Egyptian
Service called Loring Bey. Mrs. Preston had a cousin among the officers, and
W 13909
2.
we were taken to the commandant's quarters, but, though we were kindly invited
to stay longer, and everything looked beautiful there, the Lot Whitcomb was
ready and we must go.
The Hudson Bay Company's buildings and stockades were then all com-
plete and full of interest. We were soon at Portland and walked up from the
steamer's gang plank through a double line of gazers composed of the entire
population of Portland. No arrival had yet taken place of so many women. The
one-sided community was exceedingly interested. I suppose the rest of the party
were allowed to be and look just as they pleased without criticism. But the
teachers, who had been sent for, and who had accepted the invitation, were the
objects of many remarks. We heard of these afterward. They seemed to think we
had too much experience among us, and some seemed to think the limit should
have been set that none should have been accepted who were out of their teens.
Again on the river, this time in a whale boat, expecting to reach
Oregon City, the then capital and our destination at 4 p.m. I had a heavy
blanket shawl. The sun was very warm and seeing my trunk, unlocked it and put
the shawl away. We approached the Clackamas, but much later than had been
planned, and then found ourselves fast on the bar. I do not remember much of
the efforts to dislodge the boat. The boatmen were under the influence of
whiskey, and when the lights of Oregon City shone out brightly, we, in full
view, lay there all night supperless. I had no wrap. Some blankets were
divided among the ladies. The men had reached the shore and started a monstrous
fire, which dissipated the gloom a little but not the chill. The blanket did
not reach me and I became very ill. Youth and a strong constitution carried
me through, but my trip was nearly ended that night for all time. I never felt
worse in my life.
3.
Now we can look back and see some of the dangers that were incurred
by some of our party, who could not content themselves to lie there, or rather
stalk about in the met woods, for a cold rain set in with nightfall, while the
lights of Oregon City were within full view. Several of them started. There
was only a trail. They groped their way to the Clackamas -where they found
a canoe. Wholly unused to such a boat they, not by their awn skill or wisdom,
out
got across with/capsizing. There were then only blind trails, caw paths,
impassable gullies, piles of burnt logs crossing the ways in all directions,
but in the rain and darkness, in five hours they finally reached the streets
of Oregon City, gave the news of Mr. Thurston's death and the fact that we
were stuck on the rapids and then, we may suppose, tumbled into bed. Early
next morning measures were taken for our relief. A collection was taken and
eatables sent down in a small boat. There seemed to be a great quantity of
mince pie, and a very good breakfast, that is for supperless people. I was
too ill to eat, but there was cheer in the thought that some one cared for us.
as soon as possible, started on the path to the City. The sun was bright,
the clouds gone, and the trail WAS easily followed. With my after experience
I often wondered that we all were safely canoed over that whirling torrent
with inexperienced boatmen, but we found ourselves trudging along. My personal
difficulties you can fancy if you ever have cholera morbus and attempt to keep
up with a line of march. To be left behind was impossible. But the attack
was nearly over. On a bridge a little north of the Congregational church we
met Dr., then Mr. Atkinson. He was a fine looking man, really quite young,
32, but I had a way then of thinking everybody old who was out of boyhood.
He was from Vermont, and naturally, I am sure, of a grave and serious tempermant.
This seemed to me increased by what he thought the necessities of the case.
4.
There certainly was no warmth or effusion in his greeting, and one of us then
needed a little as a medicine. He said in the stiffest manner, *Will you
walk over to my house?" The alternative might have been to say, *No, thank
you, we will take seats on this log." (Remember where my purse was and haw
vagabondish I felt). But we sent with him. A little fresh homesickness at
parting with the friends who had been such true friends in a time of need. They
all went to the Main St. House, kept by S. Moss. Mr. Atkinson's house was a
small, neat building. An improvement in the mental thermometer was visible as
soon as we entered. The exquisite neatness andhomelikeness of everything, and
a dainty dinner which soon followed our arrival, did much to put us at peace
with the world.
In the afternoon many ladies called and the band of teachers separated,
I believe only a few times ever to meet again. I went with Miss Smith to the
house of Judge Thornton, where I immediately began to repair damages of the long
voyage and the illness. A sad duty was before us of meeting Mrs. Thurston. Mr.
Asahel Bush, a personal and political friend of Mr. T., crossed the river and
climbed the hill to her little cottage. She had just laid her baby, Blandina,
now Mrs. Stowell, in the crib, saying as she did so, "I think it will be your
father who will waken you." It was an awful blow, but she was a woman of extra-
ordinary poise of character, and the may she conducted herself in this sorrow
has been a lifelong lesson to me. We told her what we had to tell little
enough. She had to bestir herself as soon as possible for the support of her
family. At first, keeping house for her brother, Frank MoLeach, on a farm
in Spring Valley, Polk County. Afterward teaching in the Mellamet Institute,
now University, for several years. She afterward married Mr. W. K. Odell and
lived on a farm near Lafayette. Some mileage that had accrued to Mr. T. under
the then rulings was paid to her, and she was comfortable.. But we go back. My
5.
brother remained in Portland, getting a situation immediately. This relieved
the situation by half. For the rest I needed no money, not even for a shoe-
string. I shall always remember the story of the preacher who borrowed a $5
bill from one of his people Saturday night and returned it Monday morning, because,
he said, he could preach better with it. It was hard for me to keep the appear-
anoe of good feeling in receiving and making visits. We were invited to many
houses. Governor Gaines' wife made a tea or dinner for us, and it began to
look as if even in these wilds there might be some hope for friends that should
some day be valued. All this time I was mentally repeating to myself "I have
not a dollar." Remember, I did not have any use for one. Every possible want
for years to come had been provided for, but still I would badger my brains
about possible complications when I might be sadly mortified. Now I can see
that it was all fright. My outfit was arranged for a country where we supposed
there was nothing to buy. That was a mistake. Ship loads of goods were being
sent 'round the Horn even faster than the soon rapidly increasing needs of the
country required.
During this impecunious state of affairs I was invited to spend a
few days with one of the oldest settlers. The head of the house, who had to
make an early start the following morning, said, "I'd give a dollar if I could
find a bright fire at five o'clock tomorrow." Thinks I to myself, "You shall."
I do not know if I thought of the promise then, or took it as in earnest. It was
natural to do such a thing for a very busy and often tired man. But he took it
in earnest, and with a moment's wonderment at the fire and the steaming kettle,
laid a dollar on the table. Then I was indeed a capitalist, and had a dollar
more than I had any use for. The someday my brother sent me five dollars from
Portland and all was serene as far as money went. Immense quantities of
wild strawberries were in the streets for sale by Indians. I bought some sugar
6.
and berries and hunted long for something to put than in. Mr. Moss of the Main
St. House heard of my vain efforts among the stores, presented me with four
empty Chinese ginger jars two of which are now on my pantry shelves. These
I filled, sealed and directed to mother. The family arrived six weeks later
and after I had gone to my work in Forest Grove. An Indian who could speak a
little English carried the four jars to the little house where the family went
to housekeeping on their arrival, while waiting for their goods which were
sent 'round the Horn. Mother refused to receive them, saying there was a mis-
take, she had not ordered them, but the boy insisted and she presently recog-
nized the penmanship. That made a sort of pleasant welcome for her and could
not have happened if I had not come on in advance.
The four weeks of my stay were very pleasant, full of kindness from
those who were settled then a little in advance of us. An interesting chapter
might be written on one phase of the new country as it appeared to a young lady.
Of this part of humanity there were so few that, speaking after the manner of
chemists, one would say "scarcely a trace." The provisions of the Donation
Land Act had stimulated the natural tendency to early marriage, always found
in a new country. It VAS incredible to the community that anyone should wil-
fully reject 320 acres of such land as then went begging in Oregon, with a
wedding thrown in. But in addition to this, the non-agricultural past of the
settlers, those who had come in the desire of commerce or trade, had been long
deprived of the customs of their age and social standing. The incidents ill-
ustrating this were many and peculiar. But this chapter will hold over.
The first week in June, under the es3ort of Deacon Naylor and Rev.
H. Clarke, accompanied by Mrs. Thornton, we mounted our nags and took our
way over the hills back of Oregon City, enroute to Forest Grove, where I was
7.
engaged to teach. I MRS not in a state of mind any longer to have misgivings
or fears or presentments. Just to get on somehow from minute to minute. Much
was said about the excellence of my mount. Dea. N. had borrowed him especially
for the new teacher's use. I cannot conceive what it would have been had any
common horse been put to my service. I had never ridden except that mule ride
[i
across the Isthmus, wee large, was soft, muscles all unused to such violent
exercise.] The sun was extremely fierce. I had been recently very ill and
was in no condition for a thirty mile ride on the best beast ever under a sad-
dle. There was no comparison between the pains of this ride and that on the
little mules. Mules forever for me.1 The first ten miles were endured. The
next ten were torture. The last ten I have no words to write about. I thought
the men cruel as Indians. Just imagine anyone thinking that of those two
good, tenderhearted men, because they would not let no drop off my horse and
lie by the roadside. I wanted to die. Meeting Some Indians in their usual
string, instead of being afraid I would have been glad to know that they were
going to shoot me. The wise men in charge would not let me dismount, even when
I gave my word I would walk on and not lie down but kept me right straightio
the end. Perfectly regardless of first impressions I went in at a door, stag-
gered to a trundle bed and there lay like a log, refusing supper. I do not re-
member of speaking at all. The only thing I knew haw to do was to keep my
mouth tight shut.. if I spoke, it would be as the Psalmist said "unadvisedly"..
I never became a good rider, but use made the exercise possible. After the
family came I went in to Oregon City to see them. The old dear faces of the old
home were delightful to see. I had no word from the time of leaving New York,
except that Gov. Abernethy called at Judge Thornton's to tell me that some
gentlemen who had made a quicker passage than father, and seen them and wanted
me to know that he, my mother and sister were all well. My sistert I had left
8.
two. But that was all the information he could give. However, when we met,
all were there, and none lost by the way.
This was a delightful break in the homesick days. The two little
rooms with mother over them looked like home. And bread and biscuit/ None
like hers had touched my lips since the doors of the South Argyle home were
closed. I enjoyed them utterly, but Monday saw me again mounted for the
ride. The previous Friday I had broken the distance by going 12 miles to
about the present site of Reedsville, which helped out very greatly. I went
back once more before they left for the upper country of the Wallamet, but
then was taken ill... so it was a week before it was possible to return to
my work. Rev. Harvey Clarke, always kind, always sacrificing himself for
others, did my work in the schoolroom. I went back to my work, and they,
aided by some good Linn Co. friends, moved their goods which had come 'round
the Horn with Mr. H. W. Corbett's stock of goods, up to Albany.
At Forest Grove there were many things to mitigate the lonesomeness
of life. I did not think of them at their full value, though I seemed to en-
joy them. Mr. Clarke was a graduate of Oberlin, an agreeable and educated
gentleman, with a lovely wife, who was always pleasant and friendly. These
friends would have been valued anywhere and at all times. Besides Mr. Clarke
had a present from Capt. Crosby of a chaise, "one hoss", and he had a well
broken horse which he was willing, no matter haw busy, to hitch up for my use.
I drove hundreds of miles over those prairies, up the mountain wood roads,
often with Mrs. Clarke and sometimes with one of the older school girls. A
good horse, a comfortable chaise I have never seen a finer vehicle it is
an ideal way of getting over the country. One has the comfort of a barouche,
and the independence, almost, of being on horseback. I loved much to ride
9.
alone too, and there were few places to which my trusty horse, Lucas, could
not pull the two wheels which carried my chariot.
Once I followed up the Tualatin on a road where many wheels had
gone, but no sign of a settlement on either side. The mystery was explained
by coming to a sawmill, evidently running, but with no man to run it. I drove
up among the piles of lumber. It looked amid the embowering woods and vines
like a fairy place, and for a time it seemed as if fairies only ran the machin-
ery. For a place newly opened in the woods my vehicle could get on very well,
and I drove around to this mystery explore. Presently from behind a pile of
lumber a face looked up and a mouth spoke. I did not ask him why are you not
attending to the setting of the saw, which was running up mad down in the air
sawing nothing. But I made up some questions about the roads could I go
farther into the moods in any way from there? No, that WAS ;the end of the
world, it appeared. There WAS nothing to do but retrace my steps. As I
turned round several more faces appeared from hidden corners. The next Sat-
urday, a s these millers came down to the store for supplies, the account of
my unexpected visit was hilariously recited with much frontier exaggeration.
They said they had clubbed their resources to provide a stunning suit, in
which, one wearing it at a time, they would come to town, go to church and
see the new stranger. But before this could be accomplished I had made them
a visit on their own premises. Everyone of these men must have met your
father in after years and told him perhaps more than once, so many times he
came home from the circuit and would tell me he had seen another one of those
sawmill men I went to visit. The story of the scantiness and raggedness of
their apparel did not lose anything as the years went on.
10.
Another great comfort was the presence and counsel of Mrs. Tabitha
Brown, a wise woman about 75 years of age. She was the widow of a clergyman
who had taken her family to Missouri where land was cheap It was cheap and
good, but life was then and there almost impossible. I have never met her
equal in some things. She broke her arm in crossing the plains. Without
surgeons she directed the unskilled help of some of her party in such a manner
that the bone was set, bandaged with splints, and she WRS able to mount her horse
and continue on her journey with no more delay than necessary to put her ara
in good shape. Her leg or hip had been broken long before and badly set, so
that she was very lame. She had seen and read a great deal and remembered
keenly the incidents of her life. She was of great use to me in my limited
experience, always kind and helpful.
A great trouble to me was my visitors. I never liked them in my
teaching.They destroyed the power of the pupils to study and mine to do the
best I could for them. I often read directions to parents to "visit the schools".
Nell for some this may do Once it was worse than common. A young man had
ridden out from Portland and walked to the schoolhouse and came in to wait
the hour of dismissal, when he would make his intended call. Sore of the
older girls began to giggle and look knowing, others followed. I heard a
whisper "teacher's got a beau". MY cheeks burned, not at the alleged fact,
I was proof against that, but with mortification that I did not know haw to
meet the case. That evening I told Mrs. Brawn. She listened to my tale of
woe, as I said I must give up teaching, not having sense or dignity enough
to control such outbreaks of the pupils it was useless to go on. Her bright
eyes snapped a little, and she called the girls before her and such a lecture
11.
as they got... The result was I might afterward have had a procession of
callers without disturbing the studies of the scholars or the comfort of
the teacher. But there were many lonesome evening hours. I often walked
over the prairie alone late at night to induce sleep. I was not timid and
wed keep on till I could hear cougars, or, as they were called, "panthers"
screaming in the woods by my side. I kept in the open and was in no danger
yet even now there comes a sense of pity for the poor girl that I VAS tool.
One evidence of the primitive life there was given the first Sunday of going
to church. It was very hot weather. There was no fans. Each lady had a
twig from the bushes bent round and both ends held in place in her hand and
a silk handkerchief thrown over the whole. It made a very fine fan. This
custom is spoken of in W. E. Barton's "Hills of Kentucky."
After Christmas, 1851, I went in, on horseback thro seas of mud,
to Portland. I spent some weeks visiting in Oregon City. There were some
charming homes there. The families of the different officials were lavish
in entertainment. There WAS much simplicity still ruling, but it WMB a
highly cultured simplicity, and it seemed to me of choice not of necessity.
We had parties enough to satisfy the most exacting lover of pleasure, and
with the judgment of maturer years I can honestly say the pleasure was of
the most wholesome kind. Dr.
John McLoughlin's stately presence graced the
most of these entertainments, and nothing finer or more impressive could
have been found on the round world. Then to Albany where father had been
building the house which was to be the home of our family as long as that
family as then constituted would need a home. They were probably as glad
to have me home as I was to be there. Father had been greatly delighted with
12.
the compactness and convenience of the octagon house as built by Fowler
H. Wells on the banks of the Hudson, and explained in a book published
by them. Our experiment proved its correctness, but we also found out
that compactness and convenience are not the only desirable things about
a house. Abundance of carpets, books and bedding, pictures, etc. had been
sent 'round the Born to make us very homelike. Some chairs also were sent,
called "knockdowns". These would have been a success if they could have been
properly set up. But something went wrong with the glue and their frequent
collapse under mortifying circumstances were part of the house's history. We
were glad when a chance offered to buy some of the country chairs, with seats
of woven rawhide. These never collapsed under the most aggravating circum-
stances. With this picture of the octagon house (a faded snapshot, Worker)
I will close this account "From the old home to the new."
Man
December 24th, 1899. (Mrs. Elizabeth M. Wilson)