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Double dipping is pure pleasure after 2 hikes By Lee Juillerat Aug 26, 2022 12:30 AM A A 4 View all photos Crater Lake day visitors should plan more than 1 hike A woman and two young girls enjoy the view from Crater Lake’s Garfield Peak. [Photo by Lee Juillerat] Hikers make their way up Crater Lake National Park’s Garfield Peak Trail. [Photo by Lee Juillerat] The Phantom Ship sails far below Garfield Peak in Crater Lake National Park. [Photo by Lee Juillerat] A pair of swimmers enjoy Crater Lake's refreshing waters. [Photo by Lee Juillerat] CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK — Pulling off two hikes here in a day is a form of double dipping. But the best dip is in the lake, itself. Most of the trails in Crater Lake National Park are relatively short, with many of the most popular only a half-mile to 3 1/2 miles round trip. So, after making the drive to the park, consider adding on a second hike, especially if it involves Cleetwood Cove. An afternoon dip in Crater Lake was the reward after hiking to Garfield Peak. It’s a peak that provides more than a peek — with eye-popping views of the lake, along with unusual sightings of the Phantom Ship and such distant mountains as Scott, Thielsen, McLoughlin and Shasta. The 3.6-mile round-trip hike begins near the Crater Lake Lodge and gains more than 1,000 feet in elevation, topping out at 8,059 feet. Rewards include the views from Garfield’s summit area, but the sights along the trail also provide excuses for periodic rest stops. Several overlooks at switchbacks offer varied perspectives of the lake. And, as the trail gains elevation, sights include a succession of wildflowers, from pale blue lupine to red-tinted paintbrush, purple penstemon and more. Alongside the trail is 7,700-year-old evidence of Mount Mazama’s crater-creating explosions, including erratically shaped volcanic rubble called breccia. Frequent, too, especially along the trail’s upper sections, are gnarly, five-needled whitebark pines, trees that grow in high-elevation areas that often attract Clark's nutcrackers, birds that eat and spread their seeds. Views of the lake and its surroundings from Garfield’s expansive summit are the true reward, and it’s also a welcome respite to rehydrate, snack and take inevitable photos. Although rated as strenuous, on this morning, as on previous visits, the trail was well-populated with hikers of all ages, including children. It is recommended, however, that the hike be done in the morning because the trail up Garfield is in direct sunlight. Instead of driving home after returning to Rim Village, my plans included a dip in the lake — an annual ritual for 40-plus years. Reaching the lake requires a 1.1-mile downhill hike from the Cleetwood Cove parking lot/trailhead, which is 11 miles from Rim Village. While the downhill hike to the lake is relatively easy, the return from the lake to the parking area requires a 700-foot elevation gain. As some friends quip, “It’s a mile down to the lake and five miles back up.” The views from the trail are breathtaking, and so is the climb, especially for people unaccustomed to the park’s high elevation. It’s also recommended that hikers be prepared with sturdy footwear and water. Once at Cleetwood Cove, most people admire the lake-level views of Crater Lake’s stunningly blue waters and the surrounding caldera. With a maximum depth of 1,943 feet, Crater Lake is the deepest in North America and ninth deepest in the world. That depth also means the lake’s waters can be chillingly cold. By mid- to late summer, water temperatures at Cleetwood Cove are refreshingly enjoyable. But people planning lake swims, or quick dips, should be prepared. According to “Reflections,” the park’s visitor guide, the lake’s water temperature is typically about 60 degrees in an average August. But, after this summer’s hotter than average days, swimming and just floating in the lake was pure pleasure. “It’s great once you get used to it,” barked a swimmer to friends lounging on lakeside rocks. “Come on in! It’s lovely!” a woman called out to her teenage son. Once in, he agreed, repeatedly shouting, “It’s so blue! It’s so blue!” After my relaxing, cooling-off swim, a trio of golden-mantled ground squirrels relentlessly and unsuccessfully begged for crumbs during my quick snack. Then it was back in the lake for another dip. As a second dip proved, two swims in Crater Lake is the best kind of double dipping. Boat tours available Boat tours of Crater Lake, which normally begin in July, are scheduled to begin Friday, Aug. 26. Crater Lake National Park officials said the two-hour tours, which feature a park interpreter who talks about the lake, its geology and other information, will begin with a “soft opening.” All tickets sales will be in person. Crater Lake Hospitality, which oversees the tours, will begin taking reservations Monday, Aug. 29. Only standard two-hour lake cruises will be offered. For information see the Crater Lake Hospitality website, travelcraterlake.com/things-to-do/boat-tours. Prices are listed as $44 for adults and $30 for children age 3 to 12. Children 2 and younger are not permitted. Reach freelance writer Lee Juillerat at [email protected] or 541-880-4139.